Aba = A Loose Cloak, Possibly Of Arabian Origin. Related To The Jama In Men's Wear, And To The Abbo (q.v.) in Women's.

Abaca = Fibre Obtained From The Plant Musa Textiles, Commonly Known As Manila

Abho = A Loose Shirt-like Garment, Worn By Women Mostly In Gujarat And Rajasthan. The Garment Was Generally Worn With Short, Wide Sleeves, Open At The Neck, Loose-fitting On The Upper Part And Really Flared In Its Skirt. Often Decorated With Embroidery And Mirro

Abrasion Resistance = The degree to which a fabric is able to withstand rubbing and chafing within the shoe. Many socks and sheer hosiery products are reinforced, usually with nylon to lengthen durability.

Absorbency = The ability of a substance to take in and incorporate another material; in the case of hosiery, moisture.

Abstract = Refers To A Design In The Abstract Style, I.e. One That Represents A General Form And Not An Accurate Representation Of A Subject.

Accessories = Additional Ornamentation To Accompany The Garment In Order To Create A Certain Look/image. (shoes, Jewelries Etc.)

Accordion = 1x1 Rib Knit Alternating With A 2x2 Rib.

Acetate (fibre) (generic Name) = The Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Wherein Between 74% And 92% Of The Hydroxyl Groups Of The Original Cellulose Are Ethanoylated (acetylated). Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic Anhydride (acetic Anh

Acetone-soluble Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) = When The Hydrolysis Of Primary Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Is Allowed To Proceed Until Approximately 54% Of Combined Ethanoic (acetic) Acid Remains In The Product, The Cellulose Acetate Is Soluble In Propanone (acetone) And Is Sometimes Known As Acetone

Acetylation = The Process Of Introducing An Ethanoyl (acetyl) Radical Into An Organic Molecule.

Achkan = A Men's Long-sleeved Coat-like Garment, Worn Close To The Body, Reaching Down To The Knees Or Even Lower, And Buttoned In Front-middle.

Acid Dye = An Anionic Dye Characterized By Substantiality For Protein And Polyamide Fibres And Usually Applied From An Acidic Or Neutral Dye bath.

Acrylic (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) Groups.

Acrylic Coated = A Fabric Which Has Been Coated, Generally On The Back, With Acrylic Resin To Make It Waterproof Or Dawnproof.

Acrylic Fiber = A man-made fiber that is generally warm and lightweight and is used in casual, dress and athletic socks. Acrylic keeps its shape and properties including resilience, softness, easy care, low-shrinkage, rich colorations and wisking.

Active Sport Sock = Styles specifically designed for active sports participation. These socks differ from ordinary "athletic socks" in that they offer high performance features like special fibers, triple layer construction or pads to provide protection against abrasion and

Addition Polymerization = See Polymerization, Addition

Aeration = A knitting operation that allows fabrics to breathe, often utilized in pantyhose for cotton crotch panels or cotton soles. (See ventilation )

Affinity = The Quantitative Expression Of Substantiality. It Is The Difference Between The Chemical Potential Of The Dye In Its Standard State In The Fibre And The Corresponding Chemical Potential In The Dye bath.

Afterwelt = The area of knitted fabric just below the double turned fabric in stockings. It is usually made of the same yarn as the welt and is only one layer in thickness.

Aguillettes = Metal-tagged Laces That Replaced The Sewn Ones, To Attach The Breeches To The Doublet.

Air Jet Textured with Lycra (Yarn) = The spandex and cover yarn are run through the air texturing jet with no heat applied.

Air Laying = A Method Of Forming A Web (or Batt) Of Staple Fibres In Which The Fibres Are Dispersed Into An Air Stream And Condensed From The Air Stream On To A Permeable Cage Or Conveyor.

Air-Covered/Mactex (Yarn) = The process of air entangling a false twist textured yarn around the extended core. This is accomplished by forcing compressed air into a jet device through which both the core and cover yarns travel, entangling or tacing the cover yarn around the core.

Albatross = A Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric Traditionally Of Wool Or Wool Blends With A Napped, Fleecy Surface . So Named Because The Texture Resembles The Breast Of An Albatross. Usually Light In Color- Used In Infant's Wear , Sleep Wear.

Alencon Lace = A Needlepoint Lace On A Fine Net Ground Characterized By A Heavy Thread (cordonnet) Outlining The Design. Usually Machine Made But Sometimes The Cordonnet Is Inserted By Hand.

Alginate (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Metallic Salts Of Alginic Acid.

Alkali-cellulose = The Product Of The Interaction Of Strong Sodium Hydroxide With Purified Cellulose.note: In The Manufacture Of Viscose Fibres, The Cellulose May Be Cotton Linters Or Wood-pulp. After Pressing, Alkali-cellulose Usually Contains Approximately 30% Of Cellulos

Alligator Skin = A Design, Printed Or Embossed, That Suggests The Characteristic Texture Of An Alligator.

All-In-One Pantyhose = A pantyhose garment which includes a true knitted-in panty, constructed of heavier weight nylon or cotton. Eliminates "panty lines" that can show through clingy knits or tight pants. (See Panty/Pantyhose )

Allonge-perruqe = French Term For Periwig, Also Called State-wig. Worn By Fashionable Men In The Late 17th, Early 18th Century, Introduced Probably By Louis Xiv And Usually In Black Or Dark Brown Shades. The Periwig Had Very High "horns" On Top Of The Forehead And Was Extr

Allover Lace = General Term For A Wide Lace In Which The Pattern Covers The Full Width Of The Fabric . It Is Generally Sold And Cut In The Same Way As Non Lace Fabrics.

Alpaca = Extremely fine, soft, and costly yarn derived from the hair of a domesticated Peruvian llama.

Alpaca Fibre (hair) = Fibre From The Fleece Of The Alpaca (lama Pacos) Which Inhabits The High Mountain Region Of South America.

Alter = To Change The Pattern So That It Corresponds To Body Measurements.

Amadis Sleeve = Tight-fitting Sleeve Continuing On The Back Of The Hand, Invented In 1684 By Mlle Le Rochois, An Actress At The Opera, Who Had Unsightly Arms.

Ample = A term used to indicate pantyhose for the queen-size or outsize wearer.

Anaphe = A Wild Silk From The Larvae Of The Anaphe Moth.

Angarakfia = A Long, Full-sleeved Outerwear For Men; Literally 'that Which Protects Or Covers The Limbs'. Closely Related To The Jama (q.v.), But Possibly Of Native, Indian Origin. Generally Open At The Chest And Tied In Front, With An Inner Flap Or Parda Covering The

Angiaiangika = Short, Tight-fitting Bodice Worn By Women In India From Very Early Times. Literally, 'covering For The Body’.

Angora = The Hair Of The Angora Rabbit. The Origin Of The Angora Breed Ins Unclear. It Is Believed To Come From France, Developed From A Mutation In A Wild Rabbit, In The 18th Century. Note: The Hair Of The Angora Goat Is Referred To As Mohair.

Angora = A yarn made from the hair of the angora rabbit. It is prized for its soft feel and fluffy look, is often used in blends, and adds great warmth to socks. Angora is now often simulated by the use of specialty acrylic fibers.

Anidex (fibre) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From A Synthetic Linear Polymer That Consists Of At Least 50% By Mass Of One Or More Esters Of A Monohydric Alcohol And Propenoic Acid (acrylic Acid).

Animal Skin = Refers To A Design Which Suggests The Skin Of An Animal . Leopard, Tiger, Zebra And Giraffe Are Popular Motifs.

Anionic Dye = A Dye That Dissociates In Aqueous Solution To Give A Negatively Charged Ion.

Anklets = Hosiery with a top designed to cover the ankle bone and extending less than one-third of the way up the largest part of the calf.

Antheraea Spp. = See Tussah Silk. See Also Fibre Types

Anti Bacterial = Finish That Makes A Fabric Resistant To The Growth Of Bacteria.

Anti Embolism = A therapeutically designed hosiery product that has graduated compression to aid blood flow and prevent clotting in the lower torso.

Anti Pill = A Finish Applied To Fleece Which Involves Shearing The Surface So That The Fabric Is Less Likely To Pill

Antique Satin = A Reversible Fabric - One Side Looks Like Satin And The Other Side Like Shantung. It Often Has A Dark Warp Which Enhances The Texture. Often Used For Draperies.

Antique Taffeta = A Stiff Plain Weave Fabric , Often Iridescent, With A Slubbed Weft. May Be Of Silk Or Synthetics.

Antron = Brand Of Nylon Fiber Trademarked By The Du Pont Co.

Antron Nylon = A registered trademark of the DuPont Company for trilobal nylon. Antron combines lustre, strength, and coloration properties and is most commonly used in the panty of some pantyhose styles to give sheen.

Apparent Wall Thickness = The Apparent Width Of A Fibre Wall As Seen Under The Microscope. In The Maturity Test For Cotton, The Apparent Wall Thickness Is Assessed Visually At The Widest Part Of The Fibres As A Fraction Of The Maximum Ribbon Width.

Applique = Applique - Any pre-prepared fabric decoration which is sewn or ironed onto a hosiery product.

Aramid (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain Recurring Amide Groups, At Least 85% Of Which Are Joined Directly By Two Aromatic Rings And In Which Amide Groups May Be Substituted For Up To 50% Of The Amide

Argentan Lace = A Needlepoint Lace On A Net Ground Similar To Alencon Lace But On A Larger Net And Without The Cordonnet Outline Thread Of Alencon.

Argyle = A Design Of Various Colored Diamond Shaped Blocks On A Single Colored Ground, Usually Crossed By Lines In A Diamond Shape. Popular In Sweaters And Hosiery.

Argyle = Geometrically knit pattern that produces a balanced design of multi-colored diamond figures against a solid color background.

Art/embroidery Linen = A Balanced Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Linen Or Linen/cotton . It Is Made From Smooth Round Yarns (not Flattened By Calendering) . Used As A Base For Embroidered Table Linen, Pillowcases, Also In Drapes, Slipcovers And Some Apparel. Also Called Embroide

Asbestos = A Generic Name Used To Describe A Family Of Naturally Occurring Fibrous Hydrated Silicates Divided On The Basis Of Mineralogical Features Into Serpentines And Amphiboles. Six Varieties Were Of Commercial Importance : Serpentine: Chrysotile Mg3 (si2o5) (oh

Asharfi Buti = A Popular Textile Design Consisting Of Small Floral Discs Or Circles, Sometimes With Small Patterns Within The Circle.

Astrakhan = A Thick Woven Or Knitted Cloth Often Of Wool With A Surface Of Loops Or Curls, Imitating The Coat Of An Astrakhan Lamb. Also Called Poodle Cloth. Used For Coats And Trimming.

Atactic Polymer = A Linear Polymer Containing Asymmetrically-substituted Carbon Atoms In The Repeating Unit Of The Main Chain, A Planar Projection Of Whose Structure Has The Same Substituents Situated Randomly To Any One Side Or The Other Of The Main Chain,

Atansaw = A Wide, Commodious Chogha (q.v.)like Garment For Wrapping Around The Body.

Athletic Socks = Hosiery designed for active sports, often having a ribbed striped top and plain foot construction. Usually knit of acrylic cotton, wool, or combinations thereof.

Atlas = A Warp Knit Fabric In Which A Set Of Yarns Shifts Diagonally One Wale Per Course For Several Courses , Then Returns To The Original Position.

Atmosphere For Testing = (a) Standard Temperate Atmosphere : An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pressure With A Relative Humidity Of 65% And A Temperature Of 20ºc, (b) Standard Tropical Atmosphere : An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pressure With A Relative Humid

Autoclaving = This process involves placing bagged greige blanks in a large cylindrical steam chamber that can be hermetically sealed. Once sealed, a vacuum system is utilized to evacuate the air in the chamber. This in turn allows subsequent attainment of steam pressu

Awning Stripe = 1. A Design Of Wide Even Stripes 2. A Heavy Canvas Fabric With This Design. May Be Yarn Dyed Or Printed.

Azlon (fibre) (USA) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance Is Composed Of Any Regenerated Naturally Occurring Protein. The Iso Generic Name Is Protein.

Baby Alpacer = See Alpaca Fibre

Backtanning = An After-treatment To Improve The Wet Fastness Of Dyed Or Printed Silk Or Nylon, Using Either Natural Or Synthetic Tanning Agents.

Badla = Flat Metallic Wire, Often Silver-gilt, Used In Brocading And Embroidery.

Baghal Bandi = A Kind Of Tunic Or Jacket, Worn Shorts And Fastened Under The Armpits.

Balabar = An Outer Garment, Worn By Men, Related In Shape To The Coat-like Ashcan

Balagny Cloak = First Half Of 17th Century, Cloak Or Cape With Wide Collar, In France Named After A Military Hero.

Balanced Stripes = A Design Of Stripes That Are Even In Width And Spacing.

Baldrick = (french Bandelier) Sword Hanger, Usually Decorated With Exquisite Embroidery, (often Metal Thread Embroidery) And Worn From The Right Shoulder To The Left Hip, Usually Over The Waistcoat Or Earlier Bolero-style Doublet, But Under The Coat Or Justaucorps.

Bale Breaker = A Machine Used For Opening Cotton Direct From A Bale. Layers Of Compressed Cotton Are Taken From A Bale And Fed Into A Machine Where The Tearing Action Of Two Coarse Spiked Rollers Moving In Opposite Directions, Produces A More Open Mass Of Tufts.

Bale Dyeing = (1) Dyeing Of Loose Stock ( Usually Synthetic-polymer Fibre ) In The Form Of An Unpacked Bale.,(2) In The USA, A Low Cost Process For Dyeing Cotton Fabric To Produce A Coloured Warp And White Weft.

Band = A paper construction used to package half-hose; usually coated with special pressure-sensitive textile adhesive.

Bandanna = A Print Design Characterized By White Or Brightly Colored Motifs On A Dark Or Bright Ground, Most Often Red Or Navy. Done By Discharge Or Resist Printing But Originally Done In India By Tie Dyeing. 2. A Fabric, Usually Cotton With Such A Design.

Bandelier = See Baldrick.

Bandhani = A Process Of Patterning Cloth By Tie-dyeing In Which The Design Is Reserved On The Undyed Cloth By Tying Small Spots Very Tightly With Thread To Protect Them From The Dye. Especially Popular In Rajasthan And Gujarat.

Banyan = Name Given In England To Men's Jacket In Indian Cloth. The Term Is Mostly Used For Indoor Garments 'dressing Gowns'.

Barathea = An Indistinct Twill Or Broken Rib- Usually A Twilled Hopsack Weave- With A Fine Textured ,slightly Pebbled Surface . Often Of Silk Or Silk Blended With Wool, Used For Neckties, Women's Fine Suits And Coats Men's And Women's Evening Wear.

Bare Pychon Ka Pyjama = A Pyjama (q. V) With Wide, Flared Legs.

Bare Spandex = Spandex that has not been wrapped with another fiber.

Bark Cloth = Originally Referred To Fabric Made From The Bark Of Trees. Now The Term Is Used To Describe Fabric With A Surface Texture Resembling Tree Bark.

Barras = A Coarse Linen Fabric Similar To Sackcloth; Originally Produced In Holland.

Barrier Fabric = Fabrics That Are Barriers To Dust , Dust Mites And Associated Allergens.

Bas De Cotte / De Jupe / De Robe = In The Second Half Of The 17th Century This Term Was Used For The Lower Part Of The Petticoat Or Skirt, Which Went With The Petticoat Or Skirt Body, Covered By The Gown Body.

Basic Dye = A Cationic Dye Characterized By Its Substantivity For Basic-dyeable Acrylic And Basic-dyeable Polyester Fibres, Especially The Former. The Term Was Originally Applied To Tannin-mordant Cotton Dyes.

Basics = Traditional or classic styles which vary seasonally only in color. Basics form the bulk of the sock and sheer hosiery business. For men, the basics are crew-length casual and both crew-length and over-the-calf dress styles. For women, the basics are knee-

Basin Waste; Basineés = The Silk Waste Consisting Of Cocoons That Could Not Be Completely Reeled Because Of Too Frequent Breaks In The Thread.

Basket Stitch = A Knit Construction With Mostly Purl Loops In The Pattern Courses To Give A Basket Weave Look

Basket Weave/hopsack = A Variation Of Plain Weave In Which 2 Or More Yarns In Both The Warp And Weft Are Woven Side By Side To Resemble A Basket.

Basques = Mid-17th Century. French Word For Short Tabs At Bodices And Male Doublets That Extended Below The Waist. Those Jackets With Basques Were Worn In Combination With Skirts Instead Of Gowns.

Bast Fibre = Fibre Obtained From The Stems Of Various Plants.

Batik = A Traditional Indonesian Dyeing Process In Which Portions Of Fabric Are Coated With Wax And Therefore Resist The Dye. The Process Can Be Repeated To Achieve Multi-color Designs. Fabric Usually Has A Veined Appearance Where The Dye Has Gone Through The Cra

Batiste = 1. A Sheer, Fine, Soft, Light Weight, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Combed Cotton Or Polyester/cotton. It Often Has Lengthwise Streaks Due To The Use Of 2 Ply Yarns. Used For Shirts Blouses Dresses Nightwear And Lingerie. 2. A Lightweight Smooth All Wool

Batt; Batting (u.s.a.) = See Web

Bave = The Silk Fibre Complete With Its Natural Gum ( Sericin ) As It Is Withdrawn From A Cocoon. It Is Composed Of Two Brins.

Beaded = Referring To A Fabric Embellished With Beads.

Beading Lace = A Machine Made Lace With A Row Of Openwork Holes Designed For The Insertion Of A Decorative Ribbon.

Beaver Cloth = A High Quality, Heavy, Soft Wool Cloth With A Deep, Smooth Nap. Used In Overcoats.

Bed = Lightweight, loose fitting sock designed to be worn overnight in bed to keep the feet warm.

Bedford Cord = A Woven Fabric Constructed To Show Pronounced Rounded Cords In The Warp Direction With Sunken Lines Between Them. Used In Trousers, Uniforms, Hats, Upholstery.

Beet = A Bundle Or Sheaf Of Tied Flax Crop Or Straw.

Beetled = A Finishing Process In Which A Fabric Usually Linen Or Cotton Is Pounded To Produce A Hard Flat Surface With A Sheen.

Bellies (wool) = The Coarser Quality Of Wool From The Underside Of Sheep.

Bemberg = Brand Of Cupramonium Rayon.

Bengaline = A Durable Plain Weave Fabric Characterized By Widthwise Cords Formed By Using Fine Warp Yarns And Course Weft Yarns, Used In Dresses, Coats, Suits, Ribbons, Draperies.

Bias = Any Direction In The Fabric Which Does Not Exactly Flow In The Direction Of The Weft Yarn (vertical Yarns) Or Warp Yarns (horizontal Yarns) Of A Fabric. A True Bias Makes An Angle Of 45 Degree Across The Length And Width Of A Fabric, Fabric Cut On A Bias

Bicomponent Fibre = A Man-made Fibre Having Two Distinct Polymer Components. Both Components Are Themselves Usually Fibre Forming. Wool And Some Other Animal Fibres Are Sometimes Considered To Be Bicomponent Since They Possess A Side-by-side Configuration Of The Ortho- And P

Bikini Pantyhose = A style of pantyhose with a sheer leg that extends to the hip for wear with shorter hem-lines, short pants and deep side-slit fashions.

Binche Lace = A Lace In Which The Lace Motifs Are Appliquéd To A Machine Made Net Ground. Originally Made In Binche Belgium.

Birdseye = 1. A General Term For A Fabric With A Surface Texture Of Small, Uniform Spots That Suggest Bird's Eyes. Can Be Woven Or Knit. 2 A Design That Suggests A Bird's Eyes.

Bird's-eye = A small, evenly spaced pattern in a diamond design.

Birefringence = The Difference Between The Refractive Index Of A Fibre Measured Parallel To The Fibre Axis Nii And That Measured Perpendicular To The Fibre Axis Nl:, Dn = Nii - Nl, Birefringence Is Frequently Used As A Measure Of The Orientation Of The Macromolecules Wit

Biscuit = One Of Several Narrow Cylindrical Cheeses Of Yarn Wound As A Composite Package On A Single Former Side By Side But Not Touching. Biscuit Packages Are Used As The Take-up In Some Synthetic-fibre Extrusion Systems.

Bisu = See Husks

Blanket Plaid = A Large Vividly Colored Plaid Design Such As Those Often Found On Blankets.

Blanks = Unfinished socks as they come off the knitting machine or individual legs of pantyhose before they are sewn together.

Blaze = See Cocoon Strippings, Also Termed Keba.

Bleached = Chemical Treatment To Remove Impurities And Whiten The Fabric. It Can Be Done Either In Preparation For Dyeing And Finishing Or To Obtain Clean Whites In Finished Fabric.

Bleaching = The Procedure Of Improving The Whiteness Of Textile Material, With Or Without The Removal Of Natural Colouring Matter And/or Extraneous Substances, By A Bleaching Agent.

Bleaching = An oxidizing process that removes color from a fabric or sock, leaving it white.

Bleaching Agent = A Chemical Reagent Capable Of Destroying Partly Or Completely The Natural Colouring Matter Of Textile Fibres, Yarns And Fabrics, And Leaving Them White Or Considerably Lighter In Colour. Examples Are Oxidizing And Reducing Agents. Amongst The Former, Hydr

Blended = Textile materials made of a combination of two or more fibers, yarns or filaments.

Blending = A Process Or Processes Concerned Primarily With Efficient Mixing Of Various Lots Of Fibres. Blending Is Normally Carried Out To Mix Fibres, Which May Be Of Different Physical Properties, Market Values, Or Colours.

Blends = The combination of two or more types of fiber in one yarn to achieve improved performance or styling effects.

Blinding = A Marked And Undesirable Loss Of Lustre Of Fibres Caused By Wet Processing.

Blister Fabric = See Cloque/ Blister Fabric

Blitz = A Light To Medium Weight Woven Fabric With A Filament Warp And Spun Weft. Often Has A Very Fine Crosswise Rib. Common Blends Are Acetate/rayon And Polyester/rayon.

Block Copolymer = A Copolymer In Which The Repeating Units In The Main Chain Occur In Blocks, E.g.,-(a)m-(b)n-(a)p-(b)q- ,where A And B Represent The Repeating Units.

Block Printed = A Hand Printing Method Using Wood, Metal, Or Linoleum Blocks. The Design Is Carved On The Blocks , One Block For Each Color. The Dye Is Applied To The Block Which Is Pressed Or Hammered Against The Fabric.

Blotch Print = Refers To A Print In Which A Large Area Of Uniform Color Is Printed. The Printed Ground Is Referred To As The Blotch.

Blowing Room = The Room In A Cotton Spinning Mill Where The Preparatory Processes Of Opening, Cleaning And Blending Are Carried Out.

Boarding - Socks: = In this operation the sock is stretched either dry or moist over flat metal or wooden forms conforming to the desired sock shape and size. It is then pressed between two heated surfaces. This gives the sock form a smooth appearance. It is a process simila

Bobbin Lace = A Handmade Lace Using A Pillow To Hold Pins Around Which Thread Is Intertwined. Bobbins Are Used To Hold And Feed The Thread. Also Called Pillow Lace Or Bobbinet.

Bobby Sox = A heavy cuffed anklet that was predominantly a girl's fashion of the '40's and which enjoys period revival.

Body Shapers = Term used to describe sheer hosiery providing more support and control in the panty and thigh portion of the garment.

Body Stocking = A body stocking, leotard or jumpsuit is a garment that covers the torso and may extend to the toe. Initially designed as cosmetic covering in flesh tones and sheer texture, the garment is now widely interpreted in design but still retains its body clingin

Body Suit = Body Suit - A one-piece leotard, usually knit of nylon or nylon/spandex, that covers the body from the shoulder area to and including the crotch.

Boiled Wool = A Wool Or Wool Blend Fabric, Woven Or Knitted Which Has Been Given A Course, Crepey Texture By Heavy Felting Or By Putting It In A High Temperature Bath.

Boiling Off = See Degumming.

Boll = A Seed Case And Its Contents, As Of Cotton Or Flax.

Bolt = See Piece

Bonded = A Fabric Composed Of 2 Or More Layers Joined Together With An Adhesive ,resin, Foam, Or Fusible Membrane.

Bonnet = Ladies' Headdress Covering The Back Of The Head And Having The Brim In Funnel Form To Shade The Face.

Book = A Parcel Of Hanks Of Raw Silk Whose Total Mass Is Usually 2 Kg.

Boot = The portion of the pantyhose leg running from the thigh area to the toe, or below stocking welt or panty.

Boot Fabric = The leg portion of fabric in hosiery or pantyhose.

Boot Liner = A thin gauge jersey or flat knit men's or women's sock designed to provide a comfort layer between the leg and the sock.

Boot Topper = Knee-length men's or women's socks designed to be worn folded over the boot top.

Boot-hose = In The First Half Of The 17th Century, Stockings Usually Without Feet Worn In The Soft Fashionable Boots With Turned Cup-shaped Tops ("bucket"-tops). The Lace-edge Of The Boot-hose Is Turned Over The Boot-tops. ("cavalier"-style). They Were Worn Over The

Booties = Soft, fluffy knitted foot coverings for infants. Designed for children of pre-walking age.

Border = A Design Placed Along The Edge Of The Fabric Or Engineered In Such A Way That It Will Fall On The Edge Of The Finished Product. Border Designs Are Frequently Used In Skirts And Dresses.

Botanical = Referring To Designs Dominated By Motifs Depicting Plant Life.

Botany Wool = A Term Applied To Tops, Yarns And Fabrics Made From Merino Wool. The Term Originated From Botany Bay In Australia.

Boucle = 1.a Fancy Yarn With An Irregular Pattern Of Curls And Loops 2. A Fabric Made From Boucle Yarn.

Bourdalou = Hat-ribbon, Finer Than Grosgrain, Round The Foot Of The Crown Of Hats. This Trimming Is Sometimes Finished Off With A Buckle And Has Been In Use Since The 17th Century.

Bourdon Lace = A Machine Made Lace On A Mesh Ground Usually In A Scroll Design Outlined With A Heavy Cord.

Bourette = A Fancy Plied Yarn With Nubs And Knots Of Another Color.

Bourette = See Noil

Bourrelet = A Double Knit Fabric With A Rippled , Corded Texture Running Horizontally.

Bow-string Hemp = See Sansevieria

Brand = The name used to identify a product, such as hosiery or fiber, which comes from a particular manufacturer.

Brand = a) Branded hosiery is that which is marketed and usually advertised nationally, under one name which guarantees the same quality regardless of where it is purchased. (See unbranded)

Brand = b) Name used to identify fiber from which stockings or pantyhose are knit. For example, Glospan/Cleerspan.

Brandenburg Coat = Fourth Quarter Of 17th Century, A Loose Overcoat With Turned-back Cuffs. The Sleeves Are Made In One With The Rest Of The Garment.

Breaking (bast Fibres) = The Deformation Of The Plant Structure By Flattening The Stem, Loosening The Bond Between The Fibre Bundles And The Wood, And Breaking The Woody Part Into Short Pieces, To Facilitate Their Removal From The Fibre By Scutching. Breaking By Means Of Rollers

Breaking Elongation; Breaking Extension = The Elongation, Or Extension, Of A Substance At Its Breaking Load.

Breaking Length = The Length Of A Specimen Whose Weight Is Equal To The Breaking Load.

Breaking Load; Breaking Force = The Load That Develops The Breaking Tension. The Recommended Unit Of Measurement Is The Newton.

Breaking Stress = The Maximum Stress Developed In A Specimen Stretched To Rupture. The Force Is Usually Related To The Area Of The Unstrained Specimen. If The Actual Stress, Defined In Terms Of The Area Of The Strained Specimen, Is Used, Then Its Maximum Value Is Called Th

Breaking Tension = The Maximum Tension Developed In A Specimen Stretched To Rupture. It Is Correctly Expressed In Newton's.

Breathable Coated = Refers To A Coating That Repels Water But Allows Water Vapor (thus Perspiration) To Pass Through, Allowing Garments To Be Comfortable And Waterproof . Used In Garments For Active Wear And Winter Sports.

Breton Lace = Lace Embroidered On An Open Net With Heavy Often Brightly Colored Yarn. May Be Made By Hand Or Machine. Said To Have Originated In The Breton Region Of France.

Bright = Descriptive Of Textile Materials, Particularly Man-made Fibres, The Natural Lustre Of Which Has Not Been Substantially Reduced. Bright May Denote The Presence Of A Very Small Amount Of Delustrant, Insufficient To Reduce The Lustre Of The Fibre Significant

Brightening Agent = See Optical Brightner

Brin = A Single Filament Of Silk Resulting From The Degumming Of The Bave Withdrawn From The Cocoon.

Broadcloth = A Fine Tightly Woven Plain Weave Fabric With A Faint Rib . Usually Of Cotton Or Cotton Blend But Can Be Of Any Fiber. Frequently Used In Men's Shirts. 2. A Fine Soft Woven Wool Fabric, Plain Or Twill Weave, With A Smooth Napped Face.

Brocade = A Heavy Rich- Looking Jacquard Fabric With Contrasting Surfaces Or A Multicolor Design . Used In Upholstery , Draperies Evening Wear.

Brocatelle = A Jacquard Fabric Similar To Brocade With The Design In A Raised Appearance From Being Formed With A Satin Or Twill Weave. Used In Draperies And Upholstery.

Broken Twill = A General Term For Twill Weave Fabrics In Which The Twill Line Changes Direction.

Bruised Fabric = Sheer nylons cannot stand coming in contract with any hard surface and contacted by another hard object. This action will bruise the fabric sufficiently to cause a rupture when placed under strain.

Brushed = Brushed - Brushes used to produce a napped surface in socks.

Brushed/napped = A Finishing Process To Raise A Nap On Surface Of The Fabric Using Wire Brushes Or Other Abrasive Materials.

Brushstroke = Refers To A Print Style In Which Color Looks As If It Had Been Applied With A Brush.

Brussels Lace = May Be A Bobbin Or Needlepoint Lace Usually On A Machine Made Ground. Sometimes Designs Are Appliquéd On The Ground. As Brussels Belgium Is Important In The History Of Lace-making, Many Different Types Of Lace Are Called Brussels Lace.

Buckram = A Stiff , Open Weave, Coarse Fabric Often Used As An Interlining To Give A Garment Shape. Also Used In Hats, Bookbinding.

Buckskin = A Heavy Satin Weave Fabric, Often Of Fine Merino Wool, With A Smooth Face

Buffalo Check = A Bold Check Pattern With Blocks Of 2 Or 3 Contrasting Colors. Often Red And Black In A Twill Weave.

Bulk = This term is usually used when referring to textured multifilament yarn. Multifilament twisted yarn with low turns produces low bulk or lean yarn. High twist multifilament yarn produces high bulk yarn. The degree of bulk can be built into the yarn by the

Bulk Yarn = Bulk Yarn - Yarns which have been treated physically or chemically so as to have a notably greater "apparent volume". Bulk is usually obtained when using textured multifilament yarn.

Bulked Yarn = A Yarn That Has Been Treated Mechanically, Physically Or Chemically So As To Have A Noticeably Greater Voluminosity Or Bulk.

Bunch (flax) = The Aggregate Of Pieces, Which Are Tied Up With Two Or More Ties Preparatory To Baling.

Bundle Goods = Work socks, skating and ski socks, and other heavy socks weighing not less than one pound per dozen pairs and packed and sold in bundles.

Bunting = A Plain, Drapey, Loosely Woven Fabric Most Often Used For Flags And Decoration. Also Called Banner Cloth.

Burl = A Wool Trade Term For An Imperfection.

Burlap/hessian = A Coarse Open Fabric Made Of Jute Used For Upholstery Lining And Bagging . When Dyed Or Printed It Is Used In Drapery, Wall Coverings, Upholstery.

Burn Out = A Fabric Made Of 2 Fibers Then Printed With A Chemical That Dissolves One Of The Fibers Thus Creating A Design .often Done On Velvet.

Burry Wool = Wool Contaminated With Vegetable Impurities Adhering To The Fleece.

Business Sheer = Moderately sheer pantyhose designed for durability.

Buta = Literally, "a Plant". A Floral Motif, Derived Generally From Persian Sources, Much Used In Indian Textile Design, And Traditionally Rendered As A Flowering Plant With A Curling Bud At The Top. The Motif Is Also Sometimes Reduced To A Floral Pattern Design

Butcher's Linen = A Strong, Heavy, Plain Weave Linen Fabric With Uneven, Thick And Thin Yarns In Both Warp And Weft - Often Used In Tablecloths And Aprons.

Buti = A Diminutive Of Buta (q.v.), Very Commonly Used In Indian Textile Design.

Butt = To Level The Root Ends Of Flax Straw At Any Stage Of Processing By Vibrating It Upright On A Flat Surface, Either By Hand Or Mechanically.

Butter Muslin = See Muslin

Cable = A knitted pattern usually made up of two vertically intertwined bands.

Cable Stitch = A Knit Fabric Stitch That Produces A Design That Looks Like A Heavy Cord- Common In Sweaters And Hosiery.

Cabled Yarn = Two Or More Folded Yarns Twisted Together In One Or More Operations., Note 1: Combinations Of Folded Yarn(s) And Single Yarn(s) May Be Described As Cabled Yarns, E.g., A Single Yarn Twisted Together With Two Folded Yarns To Give Softness To The Resulting

Cake = The Package, Roughly Cylindrical In Shape, Of Continuous-filament Yarn Produced In The Viscose Spinning Industry By Means Of A Topham Box.

Calache Or Calash = A Protective Folding Hood Worn To Protect High Headresses C. 1770s-1830s And Made Like A Sunbonnet.

Calendered = A Flat, Smooth, Glossy Finish Applied To The Fabric By Passing It Through Heavy Rollers Under Pressure And Usually Heat. Cire, Chintz, Moire, & Glazing Are Examples Of Calendered Finishes.

Calendering = The Process Of Passing Fabric Through A Calendar In Which A Highly Polished, Usually Heated, Steel Bowl Rotates At A Higher Surface Speed Than The Softer (for Example, Cotton- Or Paper-filled) Bowl Against Which It Works, Thus Producing A Glaze On The Fac

Calf-High = The name used for short-length stockings that come up to the calf of the wearer.

Calico = A Light Weight, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Cotton Or Cotton Blend Typically Printed With Small, All Over, Brightly Colored Designs. Used Frequently In Aprons, Quilts & Curtains.

Cambric = A Plain Weave, Traditionally Light Weight Cotton Fabric With A Luster On The Surface . Used For Handkerchiefs Underwear, Shirts, Aprons , Tablecloths.

Camel Hair = The Hair Of The Camel ( Camelus Bactrianus ) Or Dromedary. It Comprises The Strong, Coarse, Outer Hair And The Undercoat.

Candlewick = A Tufted Pile Fabric With A Fuzzy Surface That Looks Like Chenille . It Is Made By Looping A Heavy Plied Yarn On A Muslin Base Then Cutting The Loops. Used For Bedspreads, Robes, Draperies.

Canons, Also Cannons = 17th Century, Full, Wide Ruffles/flounces Attached At The Bottom Of Breeches, Especially Petticoat Breeches. It Was A Sort Of Half-stocking, At First Long And Narrow, Then Wider And Decorated With Flounces And Lace.

Canton Flannel = A Heavy, Warm, Strong Cotton Or Cotton Blend Fabric With A Twill Face And A Brushed Back . Used For Nightwear, Underwear, Gloves, Linings. Originally Produced In Canton China.

Canvas /duck = A Strong, Firm, Tightly Woven, Durable Fabric Usually Of Cotton But Sometimes Of Linen, Hemp Or Other Fibers. It Is Usually Plain Weave But Sometimes With A Crosswise Rib. It Is Produced In A Variety Of Weights & Used In A Variety Of Products Such As Tent

Cape Net = A Stiff Heavy Net Which Can Be Shaped When Wet And Holds That Shape When Dried . Used For Hats.

Capotain Or Copotain = A High Conical, High Crowned And Small-brimmed Cap Fashionable In The 16th Century. In The Mid-17th Century Worn By Supporters Of The Puritan Fraction In England.

Carbon (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Containing At Least 98% Of Carbon Obtained By Controlled Pyrolosis Of Appropriate Fibres.

Carbonized Rag Fibre = Animal Fibre Recovered By Either The Wet Or The Dry Carbonizing Process.

Carbonizing = A Chemical Process For Eliminating Cellulosic Matter From Admixture With Animal Fibres By Degrading The Cellulosic Material To An Easily Friable Condition. The Process Involves Treatment With An Acid, As By The Use Of Hydrochloric Acid Gas (dry Process) O

Carded = A Yarn In Which The Fibers Have Been Partially Straightened And Cleaned Prior To Spinning. The Yarn Is Generally Coarser And More Uneven Than A Combed Yarn.

Cardigan -full = A Variation Of A 1x1 Rib Stitch With 2 Sets Of Needles There Is Alternate Knitting And Tucking On One Course Then Tucking And Knitting On The Next Course. The Fabric Has The Same Look On Both Sides As Every Wale On Both Sides Has Both A Held Loop And A Tu

Cardigan- Half = A Variation Of A 1x1 Rib Stitch With Knitting & Tucking In Alternate Courses On One Set Of Needles. The Construction On The Back Is The Reverse Of The Face . Also Called Royal Rib.

Carrier (coloration) = A Type Of Accelerant, Particularly Used In The Dyeing And Printing Of Hydrophobic Fibres With Disperse Dyes.

Carrier (fibre) = A Fibre That Is Blended With The Main Constituent Fibre To Improve Processing Behavior.

Carrotting = The Modification Of The Tips Of Fur Fibre (rabbit Fur) By Chemical Treatment To Improve Their Felting Capacity. Reagents Generally Used Are Mercury In Nitric Acid And Mixtures Of Oxidizing And Hydrolysing Agents.

Casein = The Principal Protein In Milk. It Serves As The Raw Material For Some Regenerated Protein Fibres.

Casement Cloth = A General Term For Sheer, Lightweight, Open Weave Fabrics Used For Curtains And Backing For Heavy Drapery.

Cashmere = Originally Hair From The Downy Undercoat Of The Asiatic Goat (capra Hircus Laniger). Currently Similar Hair From Animals Bred Selectively From The Feral Goat Population Of Australia, New Zealand And Scotland, Is Also Being Regarded As Cashmere Provided Th

Cashmere = Luxuriously soft, expensive yarn made from the undercoat of the Kashmir goat.

Cassock, Also Casaque = Three-quarter Length Coat Cut With Wide, Full Sleeves And Wide Throughout The Body, Ending At Thigh-height Or Below. An Unbelted Overcoat, Open-sided And Almost Always Covered With Braid And Woven Ornament. It Was Worn From The Middle Of The 16th Century,

Casuals = A broad hosiery term used to describe all women's sock and any men's socks with the exception of dress, athletic, and work styles.

Cationic = A Type Of Dye Used On Acrylic Or On Modified Polyester Or Modified Nylon Yarn . Often Used To Achieve Cross Dyed Effects Cationic Dyeable Yarn Is Woven In A Pattern With Regular Yarn In The Same Fabric. The Pattern Becomes Visible By Dyeing The Fabric In

Cationic Dye = A Dye That Dissociates In Aqueous Solution To Give A Positively Charged Coloured Ion.

Causticizing = Brief Treatment Of Cellulosic Fabrics With Caustic Soda Solution At Room Temperature Without Tension To Improve The Colour Yield In Printing And Dyeing, Particularly With Reactive Dyes.

Cavalier-style = The Flamboyant Men's Fashion Of The First Half Of The 17th Century. The Supporters Of The English King Charles I Were Called Cavaliers, In Contrast To The Plain Dressed Puritans.

Cavalry Twill = A Sturdy Woven Fabric With A Steep Pronounced Double Twill Line . Often Of Cotton Or Wool But May Be Any Fiber.

Cavings (flax) (obsolescent) = The Reject From The Bottom Ridge Of A Roughing-out Machine Consisting Mostly Of Rough Bits Of Broken Straw And Some Root Ends.

Cellulose Diacetate = Theoretically, An Ester Of Cellulose And Ethanoic Acid Containing 48.8% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid). This, However, Is Not A Commercial Product. The Same Term Is Sometimes Used Loosely To Describe Propanone-soluble (acetone-soluble) Cellulose

Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) = An Ester Formed From Cellulose And Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) Used To Make Acetate Fibres. , Note: Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic Anhydride (acetic Anhydride) In The Presence Of A Catalyst (such As Sulphuric Acid Or Perchlori

Cellulose Triacetate = Theoretically, A Cellulose Acetate Containing 62.5% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) But The Term Is Generally Used For Primary Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Containing More Than 60% Of Combined Ethanoic Acid.

Cellulose Xanthate = A Series Of Compounds Formed Between Carbon Disulphide And Cellulose In The Presence Of Strong Alkali.

Cendal = Silk Material Resembling Taffeta. It Was Made In Various Qualities, Sometimes Even Mentioned As A Luxury Fabric, Sometimes Only As Cheap Lining Material. Widely Used During The Middle Ages, But In The 17th Century It Was Only Used For Lining.

Centre Front = It Is The Portion Of The Pattern Or The Garment Which Is Suppose To Come In The Exact Front.

Centrifugal Spinning = A Method Of Man-made Fibre Production In Which The Molten Or Dissolved Polymer Is Thrown Centrifugally In Fibre Form From The Edge Of A Surface Rotating At High Speed., The Term Is Also Used To Describe A Method Of Yarn Formation Involving A Rotating Cyli

Chaconne = Type Of Cravat Made Of A Ribbon Dangling From The Shirt Collar To The Chest. It Takes Its Name From The Dancer Pécourt Who Danced A Chaconne In 1692 With His Cravat Tied In This Way.

Chaff = A Component Of Trash In Cotton In The Form Of A Heterogeneous Assortment Of Vegetable Fragments, Most Of Them Being Small Pieces Of Leaf And Stalk.

Challis = A Soft, Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric With Good Drape. Often Used For Printed Dresses And Skirts. Most Commonly Wool Or Rayon But May Be Of Cotton Or Other Spun Fibers.

Chambray = A Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric, With A Colored Warp And White Weft . Usually Plain But May Be In Stripes, Checks, Or Other Patterns. Often Used In Shirts, Dresses Children's Clothes.

Chameleon = A 3 Tone Effect That Changes With The Angle Of View . It Is Achieved By Using A Warp Yarn Of One Color And Double Weft Yarns Of 2 Different Colors. It Is Often Found In Taffetas , Poplins Or Failles Of Silk Or Made Made Filament Yarns

Chamois-like = A Hand Suggesting The Soft Pliable Leather From The Skin Of The Chamois Goat.

Chand-tara = Literally, "moon And Star", A Pattern Often-used In Indian Textile.

Chantilly Lace = A Bobbin Lace On A Fine Net Ground Characterized By Delicate Motifs Of Scrolls, Vines, Branches, And Flowers Outlined By A Flat (cordonnet) Yarn. Often In Black. Originally Made In Chantilly France.

Charged System = A Method Of Dry Cleaning In Which An Oil-soluble Reagent Such As Petroleum Sulphonate Is Added To The Solvent So That A Significant Amount Of Water Can Be Added To Obtain A Substantially Clear Dispersion Of Water In The Solvent. In A High-charged System T

Charmeuse = A Soft Lightweight Woven Satin Fabric With Good Drape. It Is Made With High Twist Yarns, Has A Semi-lustrous Face And A Dull Back . Often Used For Blouses, Intimate Apparel.

Chaubandi Chola = A Short Tunic Or Shirt Fastened With Tie-cords Worn By Children.

Chaugoshia (topi) = A Four-cornered Cap.

Chauri = A Flywhisk Made Generally From A Yak's Tail. Important As A Symbol Of Royalty Or Divinity.

Chausses En Bourses = Early 17th Century Breeches Made In Bands And Padded So They Swelled Out At The Bottom, Ending In A Flattened Balloon Shape.

Check = A Small Pattern Of Squares Or Rectangles. It May Be Printed, Yarn Dyed , Cross Dyed Or Woven Into The Fabric ( As A Dobby Or Jacquard).

Cheese Cloth = See Muslin/See Gauze.

Chemic; Chemick = Calcium Or Sodium Hypochlorite.

Chemicking = Bleaching Non-protein Fibre Material By Means Of A Dilute Hypochlorite Solution.

Chemise = A Light Undergarment Made From Linen, For Both Sexes.

Chenille = 1. A Yarn With Fuzzy Pile Protruding From All Sides . It Has A Velvety Caterpillar -like Appearance . ( The Term Chenille Is Derived From The French Word For Caterpillar) 2. A Fabric Made With Chenille Yarn.

Cheviot = 1.A Rough Surfaced Fabric Of Wool With A Heavy Nap. Used For Coating. 2. A Loosely Woven Tweed Fabric With A Shaggy Texture . Cheviot Was Originally Made From The Wool Of The Cheviot Sheep In The Hills At The Bordering England And Scotland.

Chevron = A Design Which Incorporates Herringbone Elements Of Zigzag Stripes Or Joined V's

Chiffon = A Lightweight , Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric With A Dull Surface, A Soft Hand , And Good Drape. It Is Made With Fine High Twisted Yarns And Has An Even Or Close To Even Number Of Threads Per Inch In The Warp And Weft. Originally Made In Silk But Now Found In

Chikan Kari = Embroidery In White Cotton Thread Upon Fine White Cotton Fabric, Like, Muslin. Several Techniques In Chikan-kar Are Known; Lucknow Was A Famous Center Of Fine Workmanship.

Children's = Refers To Designs Suitable For The Children's Market.

Child's Pudding = Small Round Hats For Children Made Of Cloth Or Straw, Forming A Shock-absorber To Protect Them If They Fell.

China Grass = See Ramie.

Chinchilla = A Thick, Heavy, Pile Fabric With Surface Curls Or Nubs, Originally Made To Suggest Chinchilla Fur . It Is Often Double Faced. It May Be Woven Or Knit And Is Often Used As Coating.

Chino = A Sturdy, Medium Weight, Twill Fabric Usually Of Cotton Or A Cotton Blend. It Has Often Been Used For Summer Weight Military Uniforms, Sportswear And Work Clothes. It Is Often Found In Khaki And Tan Colors.

Chinoiserie = A Old Chinese Decorative Style Still Used In Textiles.

Chintz = 1. A Glazed Solid Or Printed Fabric Usually Of Cotton Or A Cotton Blend 2. A Plain Weave Fabric, Usually Cotton, With A Multicolor Print Which May Or May Not Be Glazed. If It Is Unglazed It Is Called Cretonne.

Chirimen = A Japanese Term Describing A Dull Crepe Fabric Made With A Course Yarn. Originally Of Silk But Now Found In Man Made Filaments Such As Polyester.

Chite = Painted Linen, Originally From Chitta (india) Which Started The Fashion For Painted Linens In The 17th And 18th Centuries.

Chlorination = When Used With Reference To Textile Processing, A Term Indicating The Reaction Of A Fibre With Chlorine. The Chlorine May Be In The Form Of A Gas, Or Its Solution In Water Or It May Be Obtained From A Suitable Compound.

Chlorofibre (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain More Than 50% (by Mass) Of Chloroethene (vinyl Chloride) Or 1,1-dichloroethene (vinylidene Chloride) Groups. If The Rest Of The Chain Is Made Up Of Cyanoethene

Chogaichoga = A Loose, Sleeved Coat-like Garment Worn Over An Inner Garment Like The Angarakha (q.v.), Generally Sumptuous And Appropriate For Ceremonial Occasions. Of Turkish Origin, The Chogha Was Also Known As A Chugha, Chuha Orjuha; In Russia As Shuba Or Sbubka.

Choli = A Short, Bodice-like Breast Garment Of Wide Popularity Among Women In India, From Early Times. Related To The Classic Cholaka Mentioned In Sanskrit Literature. The Garment Is Worn In Many Styles; Thus, With Back Covering Or Without, Fastened With Strings

Cholu = A Loose, Shirt-like Garment.

Chrome Dye = A Mordant Dye Capable Of Forming A Chelate Complex With A Chromium Atom.

Chrome Mordant Process = A Method Of Dyeing Whereby The Fibre Is Mordanted With A Solution Of A Chromium Compound And Subsequently Dyed With A Suitable Chrome Dye.

Chromophore = That Part Of The Molecular Structure Of An Organic Dye Or Pigment Responsible For Colour.

Chrysalis = The Form Taken By A Silkworm In The Dormant Stage Of Development Between Larva And Moth. It Is Dark Brown And Fragments Of It Can Often Be Detected In Silk Waste, Especially Noils.

Churidar = With Bangle-like Gathers Or Wrinkles, As In A Churidar Payan.

Circular Knit = Refers To Fabrics Knit On A Circular Knitting Machine, I.e. One Which Has Its Needles Arranged In A Circle Thus Producing The Fabric In Tubular Form . The Fabrics May Be Sold Tubular Or Slit And Sold Open Width. A Circular Knitting Machine May Be Used To

Circular Knit = The major knitting method in hosiery construction. Yarn is knitted into hose using a cylindrical tube. Toes are later sewn and a waistband added.

Cire = A Finishing Process That Produces A High Gloss On The Surface On The Fabric By Passing It Through Heavy Rollers (calendering) . Fabrics Made Of Thermoplastic Fibers Like Nylon Or Polyester Are Cired By Calendering With Heat And Pressure Alone. Other Fabri

Classing = A Process By Which Whole Fleeces Are Separated Into Different Classes Before Being Baled And Sold.

Clear = In Synthetic Fibres The Term Clear Is Commonly Used To Denote The Absence Of Delustrant.

Cleerspan = A registered trademark for spandex by Globe Manufacturing Company. Used in hosiery for its better fit and shape retention, comfort, and/or support.

Clip (wool) = One Season's Yield Of Wool.

Clip Dot /clip Spot = A Design Effect Created On A Woven Fabric By The Use Of Extra Yarns Which Are Woven Into The Fabric At A Certain Spot Then Allowed To Float Over The Fabric To The Next Spot. The Float Threads Are Later Trimmed But Often Are Allowed To Protrude From The Su

Clock = A knitted or embroidered ornament on a sock, stocking or pantyhose, usually running up the side.

Cloque/ Blister Fabric = A General Term To Describe Fabrics With A Blister (pucker) On The Surface. The Blister May Be Created By Several Different Methods Such As Printing With Caustic Soda Or Other Chemicals, By Weaving Together Yarns Under Different Tension, Or By Weaving Toge

Cloth = A Generic Term Embracing Most Textile Fabrics. The Term Was Originally Applied To Wool Fabric Suitable For Clothing.

Clothing Wool = Wools Of Short Fibre, Not Suitable For Combing, And Used In The Manufacture Of Woollens.

Cluny Lace = A Heavy Bobbin Lace Using Thick Yarns Usually Of Cotton Or Linen. Most Often Done In Geometric Patterns . Used For Curtains Doilies And Trim For Apparel.

Coarse = Having Thick Yarns.

Coarse = See Alpaca Fibre

Coated = Refers To The Application Of Material Such As Plastic Resin, Wax, Oil, Varnish Or Lacquer To The Surface Of The Fabric . Application Methods Include Dipping, Spraying, Brushing, Calendering Or Knife Coating . Coating Is Often Applied To Make A Fabric Wate

Cockade = A Ribbon Bow Deriving From The Tie Attaching The Brim Of A Cocked Hat. Originally Decorative, It Was Also Used As Political Identification; Thus The White Cockade Was Worn By The Jacobites, And The Tricoleur By The French Republicans.

Cocked Hat = A Hat Which Is Styled With The Brim Turned Up. Particularly Applied To Styles Of The 17th And 18th Century.

Cocoon (silk) = An Egg-shaped Casing Of Silk Spun By The Silkworm To Protect Itself As A Chrysalis.

Cocoon Strippings = The First Threads Secreted By The Silkworm When It Finds A Place To Form Its Cocoon.

Coif = Medieval To 17th Century Term For Close-fitting Head Covering. Worn In The Later Period Exclusively By Women.

Coiffure En Bouffons = Women's Hairstyle From The End Of The Reign Of Louis Xiii, Tufts Of Crimped Hair Over The Temples, While The Forehead Was Covered By A Fringe Known As A Garcette.

Coir = A Reddish-brown-to-buff Coloured Coarse Fibre Obtained From The Fruit Of The Palm Cocos Nucifera L.

Cold Drawing (Synthetic Filaments And Films) = The Drawing Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films Without The Intentional Application Of External Heat., Note: Free Drawing Of Filaments Or Films At A Neck Is Also Referred To As Cold Drawing Even Though This May Be Carried Out In A Heated Environment., Colour,

Colorfast = Fabric with dye retention such that no significant change in shade takes place during the normal life of the sock.

Colour Constancy = The Ability Of A Coloured Object To Give The Same General Colour Impression When Viewed Under Different Illuminants, The Observer Having Been Chromatically Adapted In Each Case.note: The Most Common Comparison Is Made Between The Impression Under Artifici

Colour Quality = A Specification Of Colour In Terms Of Both Hue And Saturation, But Not Luminance.

Colour Value; Tinctorial Value = The Colour Yield Of A Colorant, Compared With A Standard Of Equal Cost. Note: It Is Usually Determined By Comparing The Cost Of Coloration At Equal Visual Strength. Comparisons Are Normally Made Between Products Of Similar Hue And Properties.

Colour Yield; Tinctorial Yield = The Depth Of Colour Obtained When A Standard Weight Of Colorant Is Applied To A Substrate Under Specified Conditions.

Combed = Refers To A Process In The Manufacture Of Cotton And Other Staple Yarns. The Fiber Is Combed To Remove Foreign Matter And The Shorter, Undesirable Fibers, Leaving Longer, More Desirable Fibers That Become Straightened & Aligned In Parallel Before Spinning

Combed Cotton = Cotton which has been processed through a "comber" which removes short fibers and trash components to achieve higher uniformity and tenacity.

Combed Yarn. = Yarn Produced From Fibres That Have Been Carded (or Prepared) And Combed.

Combination Yarn = A Yarn In Which There Are Dissimilar Component Yarns Especially When These Are Of Fibre And Filaments.

Combing = The Straightening And Parallelizing Of Fibres And The Removal Of Short Fibres And Impurities By Using A Comb Or Combs Assisted By Brushes And Rollers.

Comfort Top = A wide ribbed nylon band that holds sheer knee highs up without cramping the calf.

Commode = A Wire Frame On Which The Late 17th Century High Ladies' Headdress, The Fontange, Was Adjusted.

Compact = Refers To A Tight, Dense Fabric With A Firm Hand.

Composite = A Solid Product Consisting Of Two Or More Discrete Physical Phases, Including A Binding Material (matrix) And A Fibrous Material.

Composite Yarn = A Yarn Composed Of Both Staple And Continuous-filament Components, E.g., Core Spun Or Wrap Spun.

Compressive Shrinkage = A Process In Which Fabric Is Caused To Shrink In Length E.g., By Compression. The Process Is Often Referred To As Ccs (controlled Compressive Shrinkage).

Conch Or Conque = Sort Of Large Shell-shaped Hat In Gauze Or Light Crepe, Mounted On A Wire Framework, Which Was In France Mostly Worn My Widows In The Late 16th And Early 17th Centuries. At The Same Time A Similar Veil, But Generally Much Bigger And Made Of Pale Gauze, Se

Condensation Polymerization = See Polymerization, Condensation

Condense Dye = A Dye Which, During Or After Application, Reacts Covalently With Itself Or Other Compounds, Other Than The Substrate, To Form A Molecule Of Greatly Increased Size.

Condenser (Ring-doffer Or Tape) = The Last Section Of A Condenser Card: It Divides A Broad Thin Web Of Fibres Into Narrow Strips, Which Then Consolidated By Rubbing Into Slubbings.

Condenser Card = A Roller-and-clearer Type Of Card, As Distinct From A Flat Card, Which Converts Fibrous Raw Materials Slubbings, By Means Of A Condenser.

Condenser Spun = Descriptive Of Yarn Spun From Slubbing.

Condition = (1) The Moisture Present In Textile Fibres In Their Raw Or Partly Or Wholly Manufactured Form., (2) To Allow Textile Materials (raw Materials, Slivers, Yarns, And Fabrics) To Come To Hygroscopic Equilibrium With The Surrounding Atmosphere Or With The Stan

Conditioner Tube = A Tube Supplied With Steam Or Hot Air Surrounding A Melt-spun Thread-line And Located Between Extrusion And Wind-up, Whose Purpose Is To Control The Fine Structure Of The Yarn., Cone, (1) A Conical Support On Which Yarn Is Wound., (2) A Conical Package Of

Contemporary = Currently In Vogue

Continuous Filament = A fiber produced in a single, uncut strand rather than cut into short fibers such as cotton or wool. Also used to describe yarns which are not spun.

Continuous Yarn Felting = A Process Whereby Slivers, Rovings, Slubbings, Or Yarns Are Felted On A Continuous Basis. This Is Achieved By Passing Wool-rich Material Through A Unit Where It Is Agitated An Aqueous Medium Where Felting Takes Place. The Process Is Used To Produce A Yarn

Continuous-filament Yarn; Filament Yarn = A Yarn Composed Of One Or More Filaments That Run Essentially The Whole Length Of The Yarn. Yarns Of One Or More Filaments Are Usually Referred To As Monofilament Or Multifilament Respectively.

Control Top = Pantyhose with spandex in the top for soft girdle or "control" effect.

Conventional Allowance = The Percentage That, In The Calculation Of Commercial Weight And Yarn Count Or Linear Density, Is Added To The Oven-dry Weight Of The Textile Material, Which Has Been Previously Washed Free Of Finish. For Such Material, The Conventional Allowance Is Arbit

Conversational = Whimsical Designs Or Designs With A Theme.

Converter; Merchant Converter = An Individual Who Or An Organization Which Locates A Supplier And Purchases Grey Fabric, Procures Its Finishing And Then Re-sells The Finished Fabric To Customers.

Converting; Conversion (tow) = The Production, From A Filament Tow Or Tows, Of A Staple Sliver In Such A Way That The Essential Parallel Arrangement Of The Filaments Is Maintained. Note: The Two Methods Of Converting Most Commonly Employed Are:, (a) Crush Cutting, In Which The Filament

Cool = A Smooth, Slick, Hand Generally Associated With Synthetics.

Cool Colours = Blue, Violet And Green Are Cool / Light Colors. They Are Reducing In Nature, As Seen By The Eye They Move Away From The Object Thereby Increasing It’s Size. Cool Colors Have A Calm And Restful Effect.

Cooling Cylinder = An Open Cylinder, Or Alternatively A Closed Cylinder Filled With Cold Water, Over Which Hot Fabric Is Passed To Accelerate Cooling

Coolmax Brand = A Du Pont Brand Of Polyester With Good Wicking Qualities Allowing For Better Moisture Evaporation . Used In Activewear.

Cop = A Form Of Yarn Package Spun On A Mule Spindle. The Term Can Also Be Used To Describe A Ring Tube.

Copolymer, Block = A Copolymer In Which The Repeating Units In The Main Chain Occur In Blocks, E.g.,-(a)m-(b)n-(a)p-(b)q- Where A And B Represent The Repeating Units.

Copolymer, Graft = A Copolymer Formed When Sequences Of One Repeating Unit Are Built As Side Branches Onto A Backbone Polymer Derived From Another Repeating Unit, E.g.,

Copolymer. = A Polymer In Which The Repeating Units Are Not All The Same. Usually, But Not Always, Copolymers Are Formed From Two Or More Different Starting Materials. For Example, Chloroethene (vinyl Chloride) And 1,1-dichloroethene (vinylidene Chloride) Form A Copol

Cord = A Term Applied Loosely To A Variety Of Textile Strands Including (a) Cabled Yarns (b) Plied Yarns And (c) In Structures Made By Plaiting, Braiding Or Knitting.

Corded = 1. A Fabric With A Surface Rib Effect Resulting From The Use Of A Heavier Or Plied Yarn Together With Finer Yarns. 2. A Yarn Made From Two Or More Finer Yarns Twisted Together.

Cordon Yarn = A Two-ply Union Yarn Made From A Single Cotton Yarn And A Single Worsted Or Woollen Yarn.

Cordura Brand = A Du Pont Brand Of Air Textured Nylon Yarn. Used In Luggage And Outerwear.

Corduroy = A Strong, Durable, Woven Fabric Characterized By Vertical Cut Pile Stripes Or Cords With A Velvet- Like Nap. Corduroy Is Classified By The Number Of Wales Or Cords To The Inch. It Is Traditionally Of Cotton But May Be Cotton Blends Or Other Fibers As Well

Core Sampling = A Method Of Taking Representative Samples From Bales Or Packs Of Textile Fibres Obtained By Inserting A Coring Tube Driven By Hand Or Machine Into Each Package., Note 1: Core Samples Can Be Used For The Determination Of Yield Or Fineness, But Not Fibre Le

Core-Spun Yarn = A yarn made by spinning fibers around a filament of a previously spun yarn, thus concealing the core. Core yarns are used in sewing thread, blankets, and socks and to obtain novelty effects in fabrics.

Core-spun Yarn ; Core Yarn = Yarn Consisting Of A Central Thread Surrounded By Staple Fibres. The Yarn Has The Strength And Elongation Of The Central Thread Whilst Exhibiting Most Of The Other Characteristics Of The Surface Staple Fibres., Example 1: A Sewing Thread Consisting Of A C

Cornet = The Cornet Headdress Is A Simplified Fontange. The Cap Has An Upstanding Frill In Front And Lappets At The Back. The Veil Is Wired To Stand Up Above The Forehead. A Topknot Of Wired Ribbon Is Pinned At The Front Of The Cap; Fourth Quarter Of 17th Century.

Correct Invoice Weight = The Weight Of Material Calculated From The Oven-dry Weight And The Recommended Allowance.

Cortex = The Inner Portion Of Most Animal Hair Fibres. It Consists Of Spindle-shaped Cells.

Cotton = The Seed Hair Of A Wide Variety Of Plants Of The Gossypium Family.

Cotton Count = An indirect yarn numbering system generally used for yarns spun on the cotton system; the number of 840 yd. lengths of yarn per round.

Cotton Crotch = A cotton panel sewn into the crotch area of pantyhose.

Cotton Dust = Dust Present During The Handling Or Processing Of Cotton That May Contain A Mixture Of Substances, Including Smaller Particles Of Ground-up Plant Matter, Fibre, Bacteria, Fungi, Soil, Pesticides, Non-cotton Plant Matter And Other Contaminants Which May Ha

Cotton Fiber = A soft and heat-resistant vegetable fiber used in garments since 3,000 B.C. It absorbs and retains moisture, is readily washable, and is available in a wide variety of types and qualities. Long staple combed cotton is generally considered to provide the f

Cotton Sole = A cotton insert sewn or knit into the sole of the stocking or pantyhose.

Cotton Waste = There Are Two Classes Of Waste Known As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment Differs According To The Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From Spinning Frames, Reeling And Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of A Thready Nature. Soft Waste Comes From

Cotton Wool = A Web Or Batt Of Fibres Used For Medical Or Cosmetic Purposes Which Is Made From Cotton And/or Viscose Rayon.

Cotton-like = Refers To A Fabric That Feels Like Cotton.

Cotton-spun = A Term Applied To Staple Yarn Produced On Machinery Originally Developed For Processing Cotton Into Yarn.

Count = Methods Of Variously Expressing The Specific Length Or Length Per Unit Mass Of A Yarn. Also Termed Linear Density; Number Of Yarn; Yarn Count; Yarn Number; Grist.

Counting Glass = A Small Mounted Magnifying Glass For Examining Fabric. The Base Of The Mount Generally Contains A Unit Of Measurement Having An Aperture One Centimetre Square, One Inch Square Or Cross-shaped With Various Dimensions, Convenient For Counting Ends And Picks

Count-strength Product (csp) = The Product Of The Lea Strength, And The Actual Count Of Cotton Yarn.

Couple = To Combine A Suitable Organic Component, Usually A Phenol Or An Arylamine, With A Diazonium Salt To Form An Azo Compound As In The Manufacture Of Azo Colorants, In Azoic Dyeing Or In After Treatment Of Direct Dyeing.

Course = A series of adjacent loops forming a horizontal line across the knitted fabric. Small horizontal stitches mean more yarn has been used, resulting in finer fabric, greater elasticity, and longer wear.

Course Length (weft-knitted) = The Length Of Yarn In A Knitted Course.

Course, Knitted (fabric) = A Row Of Loops Across The Width Of A Fabric.

Couvrechef = A Veil Or Covering For The Head.

Cover = (1) The Degree Of Evenness And Closeness Of Thread Spacing. Good Cover Gives The Effect Of A Plane Surface And Cannot Be Obtained With Hard-twisted Yarns., (2) The Degree To Which, In Fabric Finishing, The Underlying Structure Is Concealed By The Finishin

Cover Factor (knitted Fabrics) = A Number That Indicates The Extent To Which The Area Of A Knitted Fabric Is Covered By The Yarn: An Indication Of The Relative Looseness Or Tightness Of The Knitting.

Cover Factor (woven Fabrics) = A Number That Indicates The Extent To Which The Area Of A Fabric Is Covered By One Set Of Threads. By Introducing Suitable Numerical Constants, Its Evaluation Can Be Made In Accordance With Any System Of Counting. For Any Fabric There Are Two Cover Factor

Covered Yarn = A Yarn Made By Feeding One Yarn Under A Controlled Degree Of Tension Through The Axis Or Axes Of One Or More Revolving Spindles Carrying The Other (wrapping) Yarn(s).

Covered Yarn = A core usually composed of one spandex or rubber fiber, wrapped with a filament or spun yarn.

Coverstock = A Permeable Fabric Used In Hygiene Products To Cover And Contain An Absorbent Medium., Crabbing, (1) A Process Used In The Worsted Trade To Set Fabric In A Smooth Flat State So That It Will Not Cockle, Pucker, Or Wrinkle During Subsequent Wet Processing.

Covert = A Medium To Heavy Twill Fabric With A Contrast In Color Between The Twill Line And The Ground . Usually Has A Mottled Or Flecked Appearance Caused By Using A Warp Yarn With 2 Or More Colors Twisted Together. The Filling Generally Is Of A Single Color.

Crash = A Coarse Woven Fabric With A Rough Surface, Made With Thick Uneven Yarns. Used For Table Linens , Draperies, Backings.

Cravat = Wide Cloth Or Piece Of Lace Knotted Or Tied Around The Neck. The Term Was First Used In The Mid-17th Century.

Cravat String = Ribbon Used In The 17th Century To Tie A Heavy Lace Cravat In Place; The Forerunner Of The 18th Century Solitaire.

Crease-recovery = The Measure Of Crease-resistance Specified Quantitatively In Terms Of Crease-recovery Angle.

Crease-resist Finish = A Finishing Process, Usually For Cellulosic-fibre Fabrics Or Their Blends, That Improves The Crease Recovery And Smooth-drying Properties. In The Process Used Most Extensively, The Fabric Is Impregnated With A Solution Of A Reagent That Penetrates The Fib

Crease-resistance = A Term Used To Indicate Resistance To, And/or Recovery From, Creasing Of A Textile Material During Use.

Creel = A Structure For Holding Supply Packages In Textile Processing., Crimp, (1) (fibre). The Waviness Of A Fibre. Note: This Fibre Characteristic May Be Expressed Numerically As The Crimp Frequency Or As The Difference Between The Lengths Of The Straightened A

Crepe = A Fabric Characterized By An All Over Crinkled, Pebbly, Or Puckered Surface. The Appearance May Be A Result Of The Use Of High Twist Yarns , Embossing , Chemical Treatment Or A Crepe Weave.

Crepe De Chine = A Lightweight Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Silk Or Man Made Filament Yarns With A Slight Crepe Texture Produces By Using High Twist Yarns . Used In Blouses And Dresses.

Crepe-back Satin = A Two Faced Fabric In Which One Side Is Crepe And The Other Satin. Also Called Satin-back Crepe.

Crepey = Refers To A Fabric With A Pebble Like Texture.

Crepon/yoryu = A Fabric With A Pleat-like Crinkle Effect In The Warp ( Lengthwise) Direction Of The Fabric, Made With High Twist Yarns.

Creslan = An American Cyanamid registered trademark for an acrylic fiber. Used in manufacturing of sport and casual socks. Noted for fast dye absorption due to round cross section.

Cretonne = A Plain Weave Fabric, Usually Cotton, With A Neutral Ground And Brightly Colored Floral Designs, Similar To Chintz But With A Dull Finish And Sometimes Heavier. Used For Draperies And Upholstery.

Crew Socks = A designator of length, synonymous with "mid-calf" in men's socks. One of the most popular men's styles, available in wide ranges of colors and patterns.

Crewel = A Type Of Embroidery Using A Loosely Twisted 2 Ply Worsted Yarn.

Crimp Contraction = The Contraction In Length Of A Previously Textured Yarn From The Fully Extended State (i.e., Where The Filaments Are Substantially Straightened), Owing To The Formation Of Crimp In Individual Filament Under Specified Conditions Of Crimp Development. It Is

Crimp Frequency = The Number Of Full Waves Or Crimps In A Length Of Fibre Divided By The Straightened Length.

Crimp Retraction = See Crimp Contraction

Crimp Stability = The Ability Of A Textured Yarn To Resist The Reduction Of Its Crimp By Mechanical And/or Thermal Stress., Note: Crimp Stability Is Normally Expressed As The Ratio Of Values Of Crimp Retraction Measured Before And After A Specified Mechanical And/or Therma

Crimp, Latent = A Crimp That Is Potentially Present In Specially Prepared Fibres Or Filaments And That Can Be Developed By A Specific Treatment Such As Thermal Relaxation Or Tensioning And Subsequent Relaxation.

Crimped Length = The Distance Between The Ends Of A Fibre When Substantially Freed From External Restraint, Measured With Respect To Its General Axis Of Orientation.

Crimped Yarn = A Continuous-filament Yarn That Has Been Processed To Introduce Durable Crimps, Coils, Loops Or Other Fine Distortions Along The Lengths Of The Filaments., Note 1: The Main Texturing Procedures Which Are Usually Applied To Continuous-filament Yarns Made F

Crinkled = An Uneven, Wrinkle, Or Puckered Effect On The Fabric Surface Which Can Be Created By A Variety Of Mechanical Or Chemical Finishes, Or Through The Use Of High Twist Yarns.

Crinoline = A Stiff, Open Weave Fabric, Usually Heavily Sized. Used Mainly As Lining Or Interlining.

Crisp = Describes Fabrics With A Smooth, Clean Surface, Good Body, And A Relatively Firm Hand Which May Make Noise When Rustled.

Critical Application Value (cav) = In A Low Add-on Easy-care Finishing System, The Amount Of Finishing Liquor Which Must Be Applied To A Given Fabric To Avoid A Non-uniform Distribution Of Cross-linking After Drying And Curing.

Crochet = A knitting process that creates a fabric by a series of interlocking loops rather than rows of stitches. Needlework that is used to form an ornamented design on the hose whether it is sheer or "wool-like" in texture.

Crochet Lace = Lace Handmade With A Crochet Hook Usually Medallion Patterns On A Mesh Ground.

Crocking = A Synonym For 'rubbing' In The Sense Of The Fastness To Rubbing Of Dyes.

Crockmeter = An Apparatus For Evaluating The Colour Fastness To Rubbing Of Dyed Or Printed Textiles.

Cross Cut = Refers To A Corduroy Fabric Which Has The Pile Cut In A Weftwise Direction, Forming Squares Or Rectangles On The Surface.

Cross Dyed = A Method Of Coloring Fabric Made With Strategically Placed Yarns Of 2 Or More Different Fibers. A Pre-planned Effect Becomes Visible By Dyeing The Fabric In Different Dye Baths, One For Each Of The Types Of Yarn. For Example A Predominately Rayon Fabric M

Cross Dyed & Overprinted = A Cross Dyed Fabric Which Has Also Had A Design Printed On It.

Cross Dyeing = The Dyeing Of One Component Of A Mixture Of Fibres Of Which At Least One Is Already Coloured.

Cross Lapping; Cross Laying = The Production Of A Nonwoven Web Or Batt From A Fibre Web By Traversing It To And Fro Across A Lattice Moving At Right Angles To The Direction Of Traverse.

Crossbred = A Term Applied Loosely To Wool, Tops, Yarns Or Fabrics Produced From Wools Of Medium Quality.

Cross-linking = The Creation Of Chemical Bonds Between Polymer Molecules E.g., In A Fibre Or In A Pigment Binder This Generally Restricts Swelling And Alters Elastic Recovery.

Cross-wound Package = A Package Characterized By The Large Crossing Angle Of The Helixes Of Sliver Or Yarn.

Crumbs = A Term Used To Describe Shredded Alkali-cellulose.

Crush Cutting = A Process In Converting In Which The Filaments Of The Tow Are Severed By Crushing Between An Anvil Roller And A Cutting Roller With Raised 'blades' Helically Disposed Around Its Surface.

Crushed = A Finish That Creates A Planned Irregular Disturbance On The Surface Of The Fabric, Usually By Mechanical Means.

Crystallinity = Three-dimensional Order In The Arrangement Of Atoms And Molecules Within A Chemical Phase. Most Chemical Compounds Of Low Molecular Weight May Be Obtained In A State Of Virtually Complete Three-dimensional Order. When Polymers Crystallize, In General The

Csp = See Count-strength Product

Cuffed = Socks folded over at the top, usually just above the ankle.

Culottes = French Word For Rather Tight Breeches.

Cupra (fibre) (USA) = The Term Used Originally, And Still In The U. S. A., To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By The Cuprammonium Process. The Iso Preferred Classification For These Fibres Is Cupro.

Cuprammonium Rayon (fibre) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By The Cuprammonium Process.

Cupro (fibre) (Generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By The Cuprammonium Process.

Curing = A Process Following Addition Of A Finish To Textile Fabrics In Which Appropriate Conditions Are Used To Effect A Chemical Reaction. Heat Treatment For Several Minutes Has Been Standard, But Higher Temperatures For Short Times (flash-curing) And Long Times

Cushioned = Any construction with a terry pile surface on one side and a ribbed or plain knit surface on the other. In most cushioned athletic socks, the terry forms the inside of the foot portion of the sock. Some of more complex constructions feature added layers o

Cushioning = The padding ability of a terry-surfaced sock, paired against a ribbed or plain surface.

Cut and Sewn = Bodywear items that are not knitted in one piece are usually cut from knitted fabric that is purchased by the hosiery manufacturer and sewn together.

Cut Velvet = Jacquard Fabric Consisting Of A Velvet Design On A Plain Ground. Also Called Beaded Velvet. Used In Evening Wear And Home Furnishings.

Cuticle = The Surface Layer Of Animal Hair Fibres, Consisting Of Flat Overlapping Scales.

Cycling = Sport or athletic sock designed specifically for cycling enthusiasts. Generally has a heavy knitted pad in the arch of the foot where the pedal makes contact with the foot.

Dacron = Du Pont Brand Of Polyester Fiber.

Damask = Originally A Silk Fabric Made In Damascus, Only One Colour, With Patterns Of Flowers, Branches And Animals In Satin Finish Contrasting With The Slightly Textured Taffeta Background. Multi-coloured Damasks Are Called Lampas.

Daytime or Dress Sheers = Daytime or Dress Sheers - Pantyhose of 15 or 20 denier yarn for a dressy daytime look.

Deacetylated Acetate (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By Almost Complete De-ethanoylation (deacetylation) Of A Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate).

Dead Cotton = An Extreme Form Of Immature Cotton With A Very Thin Fibre Wall., Note: Commonly The Cause Is Excessively Slow Secondary Growth, Resulting In Many Of The Fibres Having Developed Only A Thin Secondary Wall By The Time The Boll Opens. It Is Sometimes Caused

Dead Wool = Wool Taken From Sheep That Have Died From Natural Causes

De-aeration = The Removal Of All Undissolved Gases And Part Of The Dissolved Gases (chiefly Air) From Solutions Prior To Extrusion.

Deburring = A Process In Wool Yarn Manufacturing For Extracting Burrs, Seeds And Vegetable Matter From Wool. Deburring Is Carried Out Mechanically By A Burring Machine.

Decals = Decals - Designs printed on paper and transferred to the sock by means of heat and pressure. A term used interchangeably with "heat transfer".

Decitex = A Unit Of The Tex System.

Decitex = Decitex - The metric measuring system used to indicate weight per unit length of yarns in Europe. (It is numerically equal to the weight, in grams, of 10,000 meters of yarn.)

Deco = Refers To Designs Which Suggest The Art Deco Style Of The 20's And 30's, Characterized By Bold Outlines And Streamlined Shapes.

Decrystallised Cotton = Cotton Treated With Reagents Such As Zinc Chloride, Concentrated Caustic Soda Solutions Or Amines To Reduce The Degree Of Crystallization.

Deep Dyeing = Descriptive Of Fibres Modified So As To Have Greater Uptake Of Selected Dyes Than Normal Fibres, When The Two Are Dyed Together., Degreasing, (1) The Removal Of Grease, Suint, And Extraneous Matter From Wool By An Aqueous Or Solvent Process., (2) The Remo

Degree Of Polymerisation (dp) = The Average Number Of Repeating Units In The Individual Macromolecules In A Polymer., Note: In General, This Average Will Depend On The Basis On Which It Is Calculated, Which Should Stated. For Example, It May Be Based Upon A Mass (weight) Or A Number Ave

Degumming = The Removal Of Sericin ( Silk Gum) From Silk Yarns Or Fabrics, Or From Silk Waste Prior To Spinning, By A Controlled, Hot, Mildly Alkaline Treatment Intended To Have Little Effect On The Underlying Fibroin.

Delicate = Referring To A Fine, Light Hand With Good Drape.

Delustrant = A Particulate Material Added Before Extrusion To Subdue The Lustre Of A Man-made Fibre.  Note 1: The Anatase Form Of Titanium Dioxide Is Commonly Used For This Purpose. Note 2: Terms Used To Indicate The Level Of Delustrant In Man-made Fibres Include: Cle

Demi-Toe = Demi-Toe - Stocking or pantyhose with a nude, sheer heel and reinforced toe. A popular fashion with sling back shoes.

Denier = The Weight In Grams Of 9000 Metres Of A Filament Or Yarn Etc. The Denier System Was Common As The Standard For All Continuous-filament Yarns. Yarns Spun From Man-made Staple Fibre Were Usually Designated By The Count System Appropriate To The Method Of Sp

Denier = Denier - Denier is the weight-per-unit-length of the yarn. (It is numerically equal to the weight, in grams, of 9,000 meters of yarn.) The lower the denier, the lighter and finer the yarn, and the sheerer the garment. Hose knit of higher denier yarns tend

Denim = A Firm 2/1 Or 3/1 Right Hand Twill Usually With A Colored Warp And White Or Natural Weft . Commonly Made Of Cotton Or Cotton Blends In A Variety Of Weights.

Deodorant = Deodorant - A chemical additive introduced to hosiery during the finishing process to control sock odor. Originally used in athletic hosiery. Deodorants control odor by inhibiting the growth of odor causing organisms.

Depitching = The Removal Of Tar Or Other Branding Substances From Wool, Usually, Though Not Necessarily, By Solvent-extraction.

Depth = That Colour Quality An Increase In Which Is Associated With An Increase In The Quantity Of Colorant Present, All Other Conditions (viewing, Etc.) Remaining The Same.

Desizing = The Removal Of Size From Fabric.

Detailing = Detailing - Any material applied to the sock body after manufacture, such as lace, stitched monograms or insignia, fringes, sewn-on cuffs, etc.

Detergent = A Substance Normally Having Surface-active Properties Specifically Intended To Cleanse A Substrate.

Detwisted = Descriptive Of A Yarn Of Fibres Or Filaments From Which Twist Has Been Removed.

Devantière = 17th Century Women's Riding Costume Split At The Back.

Developing = A Step In A Dyeing Or Printing Process In Which An Intermediate Form Of The Colorant Is Converted To The Final Form (e.g. Oxidation Of A Vat Leuco Ester).

Dhila = Loose Or Baggy. Thus, A Dhila Payjama, Wide And Roomy All Over.

Dhoti = The Traditional Indian Dress For The Lower Part Of The Body, Consisting Of A Piece Of Unstitched Cloth Draped Over The Hips And Legs. Worn In Various Ways In Different Parts Of The Country, Alike By Men And Women.

Diabetic/Arthritic Sock = Diabetic/Arthritic Sock - Heavy elastic used to help make a support sock.

Diacetate (fibre) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From Propanone-soluble (acetone-soluble) Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate). The Iso Generic Name Is Acetate.

Diamond = Referring To Designs Dominated By Diamond Shapes.

Diazotize = To Convert A Primary Aromatic Amine Into The Corresponding Diazonium Salt, By Treatment With Nitric Acid.

Die Swell = The Increase In Diameter That Occurs As A Visco-elastic Melt Or Solution Emerges From A Die Or Spinneret Hole.

Differential Dyeing = Usually Descriptive Of Fibres Of The Same Generic Class, But Having Potentially Different Dyeing Properties From The Standard Fibre.

Diffusion = Movement Of Substance Owing To The Existence Of A Concentration Gradient.

Dimity = A Lightweight, Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric Characterized By Lengthwise Ribs. Sometimes Also With Crosswise Ribs Forming A Check. Commonly Used For Curtains, Aprons.

Dip = (1) An Immersion Of Relatively Short Duration Of A Textile In Liquid., (2) The Depth Of Liquid In The Inner Cylinder Of A Rotary Washing Machine., (3) A Laboratory Dyeing, Usually To Develop A Dye Formula, (u.s.a.).

Direct Dye = An Anionic Dye Having Substantivity For Cellulosic Fibres, Normally Applied From An Aqueous Dyebath Containing An Electrolyte., Direct Spinning, (1) (man-made Fibre Production) Integrated Polymerization And Fibre Extrusion Without Intervening Isolation Or

Direct Style = A Style Of Printing In One Or Several Colours Where The Dyes Are Applied And Then Fixed By Ageing Or Other Appropriate Means. The Fabric Is Usually Initially White But May Sometimes Have Previously Dyed .

Direct Warping = The Transference Of Yarn From A Package Creel Directly On To A Beam.

Direct-spun = (1) A Term Used To Describe Filaments Or Yarn Produced By Direct Spinning., (2) Descriptive Of Woollen Yarns Spun On A Mule Onto Weft Bobbins.

Discharge (printing) = To Destroy By Chemical Means A Dye Or Mordant Already Present On A Substrate To Leave A White Or Differently Coloured Design.

Discharge Printed = A Dyed Fabric Is Printed With A Chemical Paste That Bleaches Out Or "discharges" The Color To Allow White Patterns On A Dyed Ground. By Adding A Dye To The Paste That Is Not Affected By The Chemical It Is Possible To Replace The Discharged Ground Color Wi

Discharging. = The Destruction By Chemical Means Of A Dye Or Mordant Already Present On A Material To Leave A White Or Differently Coloured Pattern., Note: This Term Is Also Used To Cover The Removal Of Gum From Silk (see Degumming)

Disperse Dye = A Substantially Water-insoluble Dye Having Substantivity For One Or More Hydrophobic Fibres, , E.g., Cellulose Acetate, And Usually Applied From Fine Aqueous Dispersion.

Dispersion Spinning = A Process In Which The Polymers That Tend To An Infusible, Insoluble, And Generally Intractable Character (e.g., Polytetrafluoroethylene) Are Dispersed As Fine Particles In A Carrier Such As Sodium Alginate Or Sodium Xanthate Solutions That Permit Extrusi

Dissolving Pulp. = A Specially Purified Form Of Cellulose Made From Wood Tissue.

Distressed = Describes A Finish That Disturbs The Surface Of The Fabric, Giving It A Used, Beaten, Or Uneven Appearance. Often Done Through Sand Or Stone Washing After The Fabric Has Been Pigment Dyed.

District Check = A Category Of Small Check Designs, Sometimes With Contrasting Overplaids, Originally Of Scottish Origin. Glen Plaids Are Part Of This Category.

Dobby = 1. A Fabric With Small, Repeating Geometric Patterns Woven Into The Surface. 2. An Attachment To A Loom Which Controls The Harness Allowing The Weaving Of These Geometric Patterns.

Doeskin = A Soft Fabric With A Low, Napped Finish On One Side.

Doffing Tube (rotor Spinning) = An Extension To The Navel To Guide The Withdrawn Yarn From The Rotor.

Dolly = (1) A Machine In Which Fabric Pieces Sewn End To End Are Circulated Repeatedly Through A Liquor By Means Of A Single Pair Of Squeeze Rollers Above The Liquor. , (2) A Machine In Which Lace, Hosiery, Or Knitwears Are Subjected To The Action Of Free-falling

Dome Shaped = En Coupole. Round Table En Guéridon. Oval Paniers À Coudes.

Donegal = A Plain-weave Fabric Woven From Woollen-spun Yarns Characterized By A Random Distribution Of Brightly Coloured Flecks Or Slubs. It Was Originally Produced As A Coarse Woollen Suiting In County Donegal.

Dope = A Solution (spinning Solution) Of Fibre-forming Polymer As Prepared For Extrusion Through A Spinneret., Note: A Spinning Solution Is Often Referred To As Dope, A Term Historically Associated With Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate) Solutions As Varnis

Dope/solution Dyed = Manufactured Fibers Which Have Been Colored By Dyeing The Polymer Solution Before It Is Extruded & Spun Into Yarn.

Dope-dyed = Descriptive Of Man-made Fibres In Which Colouring Matter (e.g., Dye Or Pigment) Has Been Incorporated Before The Filament Is Formed.

Doru = Long Rope With Which The Thick Woolen Coat Worn By The Gaddis Is Secured Around The Waist.

Dosuti = A Hindi Word, Which Literally Means 'two Threads' Used To Describe The Operation Of Combining Two Threads Together At A Winding Machine, In Which Case The Operation Is Known As 'dosuti Winding. When Applied To Fabric, It Means That Two Warp Ends Are Worki

Dot = A Design Dominated By Circular Spots, Which May Be Of Any Size, Printed Or Woven Into The Fabric. Small Dots Are Often Called Pin Dots; Medium To Large Dots May Be Referred To As Aspirin Dots, Coin Dots Or Polka Dots.

Dotted Swiss = A Sheer Fabric Often A Lawn Or Batiste, Usually Of Cotton Or Cotton Blend, With A Small Dot Pattern. The Dots Are Usually Woven Into The Fabric But May Be Flocked Or Printed . Used For Curtains, Children's Clothes, Dresses.

Double (yarn) = See Folded Yarn, Also Termed Plied Yarn

Double Cloth = A Fabric Consisting Of 2 Layers Woven Together On The Same Loom . The Fabrics May Be Held Together With Binder Threads Or Interwoven . The 2 Layers Often Are Of Different Patterns, Colors Or Weaves . Used For Coatings, Sportswear, Blankets, Upholstery.

Double Covered (Yarn) = Double Covered (Yarn) - The process of wrapping two non-elastic filament or spun yarn around the extended core, the bottom cover yarn controls the stretch, while the top cover serves to balance and provide a smooth appearance.

Double Covered Spandex = Double Covered Spandex - Spandex that had been wrapped in both directions with nylon or polyester continuous filament yarn or other textile fibers.

Double Face = A Reversible 2 Layer Fabric, Usually With A Different Color Or Pattern On Each Side. Double Face Is Usually A Double Cloth But Some Reversible Bonded Fabrics May Be Referred To As Double Face.

Double Knit = A Weft Knit, Double Layered Fabric Produced On A Machine With 2 Sets Of Needles. Double Knits Are Thicker Have More Body And Are More Stable Than Single Knits. As They Curl, Sag, And Shrink Less Than Single Knits , They Are More Suitable For Sportswear An

Double Plush Carpets = See Face-to-face Carpets

Double-Reinforcement = Double-Reinforcement - Two thread lines, usually nylon or polyester, knitted into portions of the sock foot to achieve added abrasion resistance,most commonly at the heel and/or toe.

Doublings (drawing) = The Number Of Laps, Rovings, Slivers Or Slubbings, Fed Simultaneously Into A Machine For Drafting Into A Single End., Note: Doubling Is Employed To Promote Blending And Regularity.

Doupion = See Dupion

Doupioni = 1 The Irregular, Uneven, Rough Silk Taken From Double Cocoons Or Interlocked Cocoons Which Are Reeled Together. 2. Fabrics With Characteristic Slubs Made From Doupioni Silk Or Made To Imitate Doupioni Silk.

Downproof = A Fabric Which Resists The Penetration Of Down. The Fabric May Be Closely Woven To Be Downproof By Nature Or May Be Cired Or Coated To Make It Downproof.

Draft = (1) When Drafting The Degree Of Attenuation Calculated Either As The Ratio Of The Input And Output Linear Densities, Or As The Ratio Of The Surface Speeds Of The Output And Input Machine Components Which Bring About Drafting., (2) To Reduce The Linear Den

Drafting = (1) The Process Of Drawing Out Laps, Slivers, Slubbings, And Rovings To Decrease The Linear Density., (2) The Order In Which Threads Are Drawn Through Heald Eyes Before Weaving.

Drapey = Refers To A Fabric With Good Drape, That Is, One That Is Supple And Falls Easily Into Graceful Folds When Hung Or Tailored.

Draping = Draping Means To Hang Or To Adorn The Body Form With Loose Fabric, And To Obtain A Body Fitted Garment By Using Adequate Sewing Techniques.

Draw (mule) = The Cycle Of Operations From The Start Of The Outward Run To The Finish Of The Inward Run Of The Carriage Of A Spinning Or A Twiner Mule.

Draw (sampling) = A Sample Of Fibres Abstracted Manually From A Bulk Lot Of Raw Material Or Sliver With A View To Assessing The Length And/or Distribution Of Length Of Fibre Within The Sample.

Draw Mechanism (knitting) = A Mechanism On A Straight-bar Knitting Machine For Converting Rotary Motion Into Reciprocating Motion For The Purpose Of Laying The Yarn And Kinking It Round The Needles.

Draw Pin = A Stationary Pin Or Guide, Which By Inducing A Localized Change In Yarn Tension And/or Temperature May Be Used To Stabilize The Position Of The Draw-point Or Neck In Some Processes Of Drawing Of Man-made-fibre Yarns., Note: For The Drawing Of Some Fibre T

Draw Ratio = Machine Draw Ratio, In A Drawing Process, The Ratio Of The Peripheral Speed Of The Draw Roller To That Of The Feed Roller.: True Draw Ratio, In A Drawing Process, The Ratio Of The Linear Density Of The Undrawn Yam To That Of The Drawn Yam. : Residual Draw

Draw Roller = The Output Roller Of A Zone In Which Drawing Is Taking Place.

Draw Thread (knitting) = A Thread Introduced In The Form Of One Row Of Loops During Knitting Which, On Removal, Permits The Separation Of Articles That Are Knitted As A Succession Of Units Connected Together.

Draw Threads (lace) = Removable Threads Included In The Construction Of Lace Either To Act As A Temporary Support For Certain Parts Of The Pattern Or To Hold Together Narrow Widths Or Units That Are Separated Subsequently By Their Removal.

Draw-beaming = See Draw-warping, Also Termed Warp Drawing (USA.)

Draw-down = In Man-made Filament Extrusion, The Ratio Of Take-up Or Haul-off Speed To The Average Speed Of The Spinning Fluid As It Leaves The Spinneret., Note: The Terms Spin-stretch Ratio And Extrusion Ratio Are Also Commonly Used.

Drawing (staple Yarn) = Operations By Which Slivers Are Blended (or Doubled) Levelled, And By Drafting Reduced To The State Of Sliver Or Roving Suitable For Spinning. In Cotton Spinning The Term Is Only Applied To Processing At The Drawframe. Various Systems Of Drawing Are Pract

Drawing (synthetic Filaments And Films) = The Stretching To Near The Limit Of Plastic Flow Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films Of Low Molecular Orientation., Note: This Process Orients The Molecular Chains In The Length Direction.

Drawing, Cold (synthetic Filaments And Films) = The Drawing Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films Without The Intentional Application Of External Heat. , Note: Free Drawing Of Filaments Or Films At A Neck Is Also Referred To As Cold Drawing Even Though This May Be Carried Out In A Heated Environment.

Drawing, Hot (synthetic Filaments And Films) = A Term Applied To The Drawing Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films With The Intentional Application Of External Heat.

Drawing-in = The Process Of Drawing The Threads Of A Warp Through The Eyes Of A Heald And The Dents Of A Reed.

Drawn Yarn = Extruded Yarn That Has Been Subjected To A Stretching Or Drawing Process That Orients The Long-chain Molecules Of Which It Is Composed In The Direction Of The Filament Axis. On Further Stretching, Such Yarn Acquires Elastic Extension As Compared With The

Draw-spinning = A Process For Spinning Partially Or Highly Oriented Filaments In Which The Orientation Is Introduced Prior To The First Forwarding Or Collecting Device

Draw-texturing = A Process In Which The Drawing Stage Of Man-made-yarn Manufacture Is Combined With The Texturing Process On One Machine., Note: The Drawing And Texturing Stages May Take Place In Separate, Usually Consecutive, Zones Of A Machine (sequential Draw-texturing

Draw-twist = To Orient A Filament Yarn By Drawing It And Then To Twist It In Integrated Sequential Stages.

Draw-warping = A Process For The Preparation Of Warp Beams Or Section Beams From A Creel Of Packages Of Partially Oriented Yarn In Which The Traditionally Separate Stages Of Drawing And Beaming Are Combined Sequentially On One Machine., Also Termed Draw-beaming; Warp Dr

Draw-wind = To Orient A Filament Yarn By Drawing It, And Then To Wind It On To A Package In An Integrated Process Without Imparting Twist.

Dress Muslin = See Muslin

Dress Socks = Dress Socks - Light to medium weight men's and boy's styles. Lengths may vary from mid- to over-the-calf.

Dressing (flax) = A Combing Process Applied To Stricks Or Pieces Of Line Flax Fibre To Parallelize The Strands, Remove Naps Or Bunches Of Entangled Fibres, And Square The Ends Of The Pieces By Pulling Or Breaking Fibres That Protrude From The Ends.

Dressing (lace) = The Operation Of Stretching Lace, Net, Or Lace-furnishing Products To Size, Then Drying, After The Application Of Stiffening Or Softening Agents. The Stretching And Drying May Be Carried Out On Either A Running Stenter Or A Stationary Frame.

Dressing (warp Preparation) = The Operation Of Assembling Yarns From A Ball Warp, Beam, Or Chain On A Beam Immediately Prior To Weaving., Scotch Dressing, (1) (dry Taping; Scotch Beaming) A Method Of Preparing Striped Warps For Weaving, Suitable For Use When Long Lengths Of Any One Pa

Drill = A Strong, Medium To Heavy Weight 2x1 Or 3x1 Warp Faced Twill Usually Of Cotton. It Is Similar To Denim But Drill Is Usually Piece Dyed.

Drip-dry = Descriptive Of Textile Materials That Are Reasonably Resistant To Disturbance Of Fabric Structure And Appearance During Wear And Washing And Require A Minimum Of Ironing Or Pressing.

Drop Stitch = Refers To A Knit Fabric With An Open Stripe Design At Set Intervals Made By Removing Some Of The Needles.

Drop Stitch = Drop Stitch - When a needle on a knitting machine does not form a knitted loop.

Dry = Refers To A Fabric That Feels Lacking In Surface Moisture Or Natural Lubrication . Cottons Are Often Said To Feel Dry.

Dry Clean = To Remove Grease, Oil, And Dirt From Garments Or Fabrics By Treating Them In An Organic Solvent, As Distinct From Aqueous Liquors. Examples Of Suitable Solvents Are White Spirit, Trichloroethylene (trichlorethylene) And Tetrachloroethylene (perchlorethyle

Dry Laying = A Method Of Forming A Fibre Web Or Batt By Carding And/or Air Laying, Followed By Any Type Of Bonding Process.

Dry Spinning (man-made Fibre Production) = Conversion Of A Dissolved Polymer Into Filaments By Extrusion And Evaporation Of The Solvent From The Extrudate.

Dry-combed Top = A Wool Top Containing Not More Than 1 % Of Fatty Matter Based On The Oven-dry, Fat-free Weight As Tested By The International Wool Textile Organisation's Method Which Specifies Soxhlet Extraction With Dichloromethane., ,m Note: The Standard Regain Of A Dr

Drying Cylinder = Heated, Rotating, Hollow Cylinder(s) Around Which Textile Material Or Paper Is Passed In Contact With It.

Dry-spun = (1) Descriptive Of A Worsted Yarn Produced From A Dry-combed Top Or Of Synthetic Yams Spun On Similar Machinery., (2) Descriptive Of Coarse Flax Yarn Spun From Air-dry Roving (cf. Wet-spun ), (3) Descriptive Of Man-made Filaments Produced By Dry-spinning.

Duchesse Lace = A Guipure Lace Characterized By Floral And Leaf Designs With Very Little Ground . Heavier Threads Are Intertwined To Give Raised Texture. Used In Bridal Veils And Gowns.

Duck = See Canvas/ Duck.

Dull = Descriptive Of Textile Materials, The Lustre Of Which Has Been Reduced.

Dupaluidupallari Top = Small, Close-fitting Cap Made Generally Of Muslin, And Consisting Of Two Identical Pieces Cut Slightly Rounded And Curved Towards The Top.

Dupatta = Veil-cloth Worn By Women, Draped Loosely Around The Upper Part Of The Body.

Dupion = A Silk-breeding Term Meaning Double-cocoon. Hence, An Irregular, Raw, Rough Silk Reeled From Double Cocoons.

Dupion Fabric. = Originally A Silk Fabric Woven From Doupion Yarns. The Term Is Nowadays Applied To Imitations Woven From Man-made-fibre Yarns, But It Is Recommended That In Such Contexts The Name Of The Fibre Is Indicated.

Durable Finish = Any Type Of Finish Reasonably Resistant To Normal Usage, Washing, And/or Dry-cleaning

Durable Press = A Finishing Treatment Designed To Impart To A Textile Material Or Garment. The Retention Of Specific Contours Including Creases And Pleats Resistant To Normal Usage, Washing, And/or Dry-cleaning., Note: The Treatment May Involve The Use Of Synthetic Resin

Duvetyn = Medium To Heavy Weight Twill Fabric With A Soft, Short Nap Covering The Weave. It Has A Sueded, Velvety Hand. Originally Made Of Wool Or Wool Blends But May Be Of Cotton Or Other Fibers . Used In Suits, Coats, Millinery.

Dye = A Colorant That Has Substantivity For A Substrate, Either Inherent Or Induced By Reactants.

Dyed & Overprinted = Refers To Fabrics Which Have Been First Piece Dyed, Then Printed In Colors That Are Darker Than The Dyed Ground.

Dye-fixing Agent = A Substance, Generally Organic, Applied To A Dyed Or Printed Material To Improve Its Fastness To Wet Treatments.

Dyeing = Dyeing - The permanent application of color to a yarn or fabric.

Easy Care = Refers To Fabrics Which Are Restored To Their Original Appearance After Laundering With Little Or No Ironing. Generally Such Fabrics Can Be Machine Washed And Tumble Dried/See Drip-dry.

Ecru (knitting) = Descriptive Of Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics That Have Not Been Subjected To Processes Affecting Their Natural Colour.

Effect Threads = Yarns Inserted In A Fabric That Are Sufficiently Different In Fibre, Count, Or Construction To Form Or Enhance A Pattern.

Egyptian Cotton = Cotton From Egypt Characterized By Its Strong, Fine, Long And Lustrous Fibers.

Elastane (fibre) (generic name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres That Are Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Segmented Polyurethane Groups And Which Rapidly Revert Substantially To Their Original Length After Extension To Three Times

Elastic = A term which designates the ability of a yarn to return to its original size or shape after being stretched.

Elastic Fabric = A Fabric Containing Rubber Or Other Elastomeric Fibres Or Threads, Having Recoverable Extensibility In A Direction Parallel To The Elastomeric Threads, And Characterized By A High Resistance To Deformation And A High Capacity To Recover Its Normal Size An

Elasticity = The ability of a strained material to recover its original size and shape immediately after removal of the stress that caused deformation.

Elasticized = Fabrics which have elastic threads running through them, or which have been treated to give them elastic qualities.

Elastodiene (fibre) (generic name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Natural Or Synthetic Polyisoprene, Or Composed Of One Or More Dienes Polymerized With Or Without One Or More Vinyl Monomers, Which Rapidly Revert Substantially To Their Original Length After Extension To Three Ti

Elastomer = Any Polymer Having High Extensibility Together With Rapid And Substantially Complete Elastic Recovery., Note: Most Fibres Formed From Elastomers Have Breaking Elongations In Excess Of One Hundred Percent.

Elastomer = Elastic fibers such as rubber or spandex that have physical stretch properties.

Elastomeric Yarn = A Yarn Formed From An Elastomer., Note 1: Elastomeric Yarn May Either Be Incorporated Into Fabric In The Bare State Or Wrapped With Relatively Inextensible Fibres. Wrapping Is Done By Covering (see Covered Yarn), Core Spinning Or Uptwisting., Note 2: Exam

Electronic Patterning = Use of an electronic device to control certain needles in knitting to create a pattern.

Electrostatic Flocking = The Process Of Applying A Flock To An Adhesive-coated Substrate In A High-voltage Electrostatic Field.

Elongation = See Extension, Note: The Increase May Be Expressed In Three Ways, Namely:, (i) As A Length, (ii) As A Percentage Of The Initial Length, And, (iii) As A Fraction Of The Initial Length.

Elysian = A Thick, Heavy, Usually Woolen Fabric With A Deep Nap That Forms A Diagonal Or Ripple Pattern On The Surface. Used For Coatings.

Emboss = To Produce A Pattern In Relief By Passing Fabric Through A Calendar In Which A Heated Metal Bowl Engraved With The Pattern Works Against A Relatively Soft Bowl, Built Up Of Compressed Paper Or Cotton On A Metal Centre.

Embossed = Fabric With A Raised Design That Has Been Engraved On A Metal Cylinder Then Impressed On The Fabric With Heat And Pressure.

Embroidered = A Fabric Decorated With Needlework Stitching Of Yarn Or Thread. May Be Done By Hand Or Machine.

Embroidery = The application of designs of decorative trim by machine or hand sewing.

Embroidery Linen = See Art/embroidery Linen.

Emerizing = A Process In Which Fabric Is Passed Over A Series Of Emery-covered Rollers To Produce A Suede-like Finish. Note: A Similar Process Is Known As Sueding.

End = (1) (spinning) An Individual Strand,, (2) (weaving) An Individual Warp Thread., (3) (fabric) A Length Of Finished Fabric Less Than A Customary Unit (piece) In Length, (4) (finishing) , (a) Each Passage Of A Length Of Fabric Through A Machine, For Example,

End & End = A Plain Weave Fabric With A Warp Yarn Of One Color Alternating With A Warp Yarn Of White Or A Second Color. Often The Weft Yarns Alternate With The Same 2 Colors Forming A Mini Check Design. Used Most Commonly In Shirtings.

End-group = A Chemical Group That Forms The End Of A Polymer Chain. Linear Polymers Possess Two End-groups Per Molecule And Branched Polymers With N Branch Points Possess N + 2 End-groups Per Molecule.

Engagéantes = Lace Cuffs With Two Or Three Rows Of Ruffles, Finishing Women's Gown Sleeves In Louis Xiv's Time. They Were Still Worn In The 18th Century With Gowns À La Francaise.

Enzyme Washed = Refers To The Process Of Washing With A Cellulase Enzyme -one Which Attacks The Cellulose In The Fabric- Giving It A Used, Worn Appearance And A Desirable Soft Hand . The Effect Is Similar To Stone Washing But Is Less Damaging To The Fabric. It Is Sometim

Epitropic Fibre = A Fibre Whose Surface Contains Partially Or Wholly Embedded Particles That Modify One Or More Of Its Properties, E.g., Its Electrical Conductivity.

Eri = A Type Of Wild Silk.

Ethnic = Refers To Designs With Elements Suggesting The Culture Or Traditional Designs Of A Particular Group Of People.

Ethnic = Usually sheer hosiery (knee-high, stockings or pantyhose) dyed in colors designed to compliment the natural skin tones of various ethnic population groups.

Evening Sheers = Pantyhose made of 10 to 15 denier yarn. Worn for special occasions, they often have a satin finish.

Executive Length = Men's over-the-calf dress styles.

Exfoliation = An Inherent Fault In Silk Only Apparent After Degumming Or Dyeing. It Is Characterized By Fine Fibrils Or Fibrillae That Become Separated From The Filament, So Giving A Speckled, Dishevelled Appearance.

Exhaustion = The Proportion Of Dye Or Other Substance Taken Up By A Substrate At Any Stage Of A Process To The Amount Originally Available.

Expression (percent) = The Weight Of Liquid Retained By Textile Material After Mangling Or Hydroextraction, Calculated As A Percentage Of The Air-dry Weight Of The Goods.

Extension = An Increase In Length., Note: The Increase May Be Expressed In Three Ways, Namely:, (i) As A Length, (ii) As A Percentage Of The Initial Length, And, (iii) As A Fraction Of The Initial Length.

Extra Long Length = Pantyhose knitted with a slightly extra long length and or slash panty to accomodate taller consumers.

Extract = Wool Or Hair Recovered By The Wet Process Of Carbonization.

Extrusion = In The Spinning Of Man-made Filaments, Fibre-forming Substances In The Plastic Or Molten State, Or In Solution, Are Forced Through The Holes Of A Spinneret Or Die At A Controlled Rate. There Are Five General Methods Of Spinning (extruding) Man-made Filame

Extrusion (fibre Production) = The Process Of Forming Fibres By Forcing Materials Through Orifices.

Extrusion Ratio = In Man-made Filament Extrusion, The Ratio Of Take-up Or Haul-off Speed To The Average Speed Of The Spinning Fluid As It Leaves The Spinneret.

Eyelash = A Fabric With Clipped Yarn On The Surface Suggesting Eyelashes.

Eyelet = A Fabric Decorated With Cut Out Areas Surrounded By Stitching. Used For Dresses, Blouses, Children's Apparel, Curtains.

Fabric = Specifically in hosiery, the word is used to refer to that which is knitted on hosiery machines from fiber.

Fabric (textile) = A Manufactured Assembly Of Fibres And/or Yarns That Has Substantial Surface Area In Relation To Its Thickness And Sufficient Mechanical Strength To Give The Assembly Inherent Cohesion. , Note: Fabrics Are Most Commonly Woven Or Knitted, But The Term Inclu

Fabric Length = Unless Otherwise Specified, The Usable Length Of A Piece Between Any Truth Marks, Piece-ends, Or Numbering, When The Fabric Is Measured Laid Flat On A Table In The Absence Of Tension.

Fabric Recovery = The ability of fabric to recover from the fully extended state to the original flat state before extending.

Fabric Stretch = The amount of stretch in fabric from the relaxed state to the fully extended stretch.

Fabric Width = Unless Otherwise Specified, The Distance From Edge To Edge Of A Fabric When Laid Flat On A Table Without Tension. In The Case Of Commercial Dispute The Measurement Should Be Made After The Fabric Has Been Conditioned In A Standard Atmosphere For Testing .

Face-finished (fabric) = Descriptive Of A Finish, For Example, To Wool Fabrics, In Which The Face Side Is Treated Selectively, As In Raising.

Face-to-face Carpets = Carpets Manufactured As A Sandwich In Which The Pile Is Attached Alternately To Two Substrates: Two Cut Pile Carpets Are Made By Cutting The Pile Yarns Between The Two Substrates.

Facing Silk = A Fine Lustrous Fabric Of Silk (usually Of Corded Satin, Twill Weave, Or Barathea) Used For Facing, E.g., Lapels In Men's Evening Wear. (fabrics Of Other Fibres Are Used For Facing Purposes But Are Not Properly Described As 'facing Silk'.)

Facings = Edging Of Fine Fur Or Rich Cloth, These Trimmings Were Purely For Decoration. During The Course Of Time The Meaning Changed Towards The Contemporary Meaning Of Today, The Term Was Extended To Cover All The Reveres Of The Body Or Sleeves Of A Garment.

Faconne = A Fabric With Small Scattered Motifs Usually Jacquard But Sometimes Burn Out.

Façonné ( Faconne ) = The French Word For 'figured'. It Is Used In Relation To Textiles To Describe Jacquard Fabrics With A Pattern Of Small Scattered Figures.

Fad = Short Lived Fashion Are Called Fad’s; They Seldom Have Any Lasting Impact On Future Fashion. They Are Briefly And Suddenly Seen Everywhere And Just As Suddenly They Vanish.

Fade = (1) In Fastness Testing, Any Change In The Colour Of An Object Caused By Light Or Contaminants In The Atmosphere, E.g., Burnt-gas Fumes., Note: The Change In Colour May Be In Hue, Depth Or Brightness Or Any Combination Of These., (2) Colloquially, A Reduc

Faggoting = A Openwork Stripe Effect With Connecting Threads Across The Open Area That Create A Ladder Effect.

Faille = A Plain Weave Fabric Characterized By A Narrow, Crosswise Rib Which Is Usually The Result Of A Fine Warp Yarn Crossed With A Heavier Weft Yarn. Most Commonly Made With Filament Yarns But Can Be From A Variety Of Fibers And Weights. It Usually Has A Soft H

Fair Isle = Any nordic or snowflake patterning.

Falling Bands = Also Known As Rabat And Hanging Collars; Linen Or Lace Collars (or Combined) With Two Distinct Ends Hanging Down Over The Chest. The Forerunner Of The Cravat In The 17th Century. They Were Worn By Both Men And Women.

False Twist Covering (Yarn) = The spandex and cover yarn are run through the texturing spindle with heat applied.

False-twist Direction = The Direction, S Or Z, Of Twist Generated By A False-twisting Device.

False-twisting = A Twisting Operation Applied At An Intermediate Position On A Yarn Or Other Similar Continuous Assembly Of Fibres, So That No Net Twist Can Be Inserted, As Distinct From Twisting At The End Of A Yarn Where Real Twist Is Inserted., Note: Real Twisting Nece

False-twist-textured Yarn = A Continuous Process In Which A Yarn Is Highly Twisted, Heat-set And Untwisted. In An Infrequently Used Alternative Method, Two Yarns Are Continuously Folded Together, Heat-set, Then Separated By Unfolding.

Fancies = Men's socks of any length bearing multicolor designs such as stripes, herringbones, argyles and other fashion styles.

Fancy Yarn = A Yarn That Differs From The Normal Construction Of Single And Folded Yarns By Way Of Deliberately Produced Irregularities In Its Construction. These Irregularities Relate To An Increased Input Of One Or More Of Its Components Or To The Inclusion Of Perio

Fargul = A Kind Of Jacket.

Farji = A Kind Of Jacket. Defined By The Dictionaries As Simply 'a Kind Of Garment', The Farji Was Possibly A Long Over-garment Without Sleeves, Or With Very Short Sleeves, Open In Front And Worn Like A Coat Over Pyjama (q.v.) Or Angarakha (q.v.).

Farshi Pyjama = Wide-legged Pyjama (q. V) That Trails On The Ground, Sometimes Completely Covering The Feet; Worn Often With A Kurta (q.v.) Or Angarakha (q.v.).

Fasciated Yarn = A Staple Fibre Yarn That By Virtue Of Is Manufacturing Technique Consists Of A Core Of Essentially Parallel Fibres Bound Together By Wrapper Fibres. The Current Technique Of Manufacture Is Often Referred To As Jet Spinning.

Fashion Forecast = To Predict Of Foretell Future Fashion Tread For A Specific Period Of Time.

Fashioned (weft Knitting) = See Shaping

Fastness = The Property Of Resistance To An Agency Named (e.g., Washing, Light, Rubbing, Crocking, Gas-fumes)., Note: On The Standard Scale, Five Grades Are Usually Recognized, From 5, Signifying Unaffected, To 1, Grossly Changed. For Lightfastness, Eight Grades Are

Fatuhi = A 'jacket Without Sleeves'. Generally Understood As A Vest Lightly Padded With Cotton Wool, And Quilted.

Faux Fur = A Pile Fabric Made To Simulate Animal Fur. May Be Woven Or Knit In A Variety Of Fibers Although Acrylic And Modacrylic Are Most Common.

Faux Leather = A Fabric Made To Imitate Animal Leather . Often A Polyurethane Laminate.

Faux Linen = A Fabric Made With Slubbed Yarns To Imitate Linen. Usually Inexpensive, Easy Care Fabrics.

Faux Shearling = Fabrics Made To Imitate Shearling- The Pelt Of A Sheep With The Wool In Place.

Faux Silk = A Fabric Of Manufactured Fiber, Most Commonly Polyester , With Good Drape, Luster And A Soft Hand To Imitate Silk.

Faux Suede = See Suede Cloth/faux Suede.

Faz-vi = A 'jacket Without Sleeves'. Possibly The Same Kind Of Garment As Fatuhi (q.v.).

Feed Roller; Feed Roll = A Roller That Forwards A Yarn To A Subsequent Processing Or Take-up Stage.

Feeds = This term is normally used in conjunction with circular knitting machines and literally means how many yarns are fed into a machine at each revolution to knit continuous rows of stitches.

Fellmongering = The Process Of Pulling Wool From Sheep Skins. (see Also Skin Wool.): Felt, A Textile Fabric Characterized By The Entangled Condition Of Most, Or All, Of The Fibres Of Which It Is Composed. Three Classes Of Felt Can Be Distinguished:, (a) Fabrics With A Wo

Felt = 1 A Nonwoven Fabric Made Directly From Fibers Bound Together With Heat, Moisture And Mechanical Pressure . Usually Some Wool Or Animal Hair Is Used. 2. A Woven Fabric That Has Been Subjected To A Heavy Fulling Process Which Compresses And Shrinks The Fabr

Felting = The Matting Together Of Fibres During Processing Or Wear (see Milling (fabric Finishing)).

Fiber = Natural or man-made units of matter which can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by various methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting and twisting. The essential properties for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length of at least 5

Fiberfill = Fiber Batting Used As A Backing In A Quilted Fabric Or In A Sandwich With Other Fabrics . Used In Outerwear, Bedspreads.

Fibre = (1) Textile Raw Material Generally., (2) A Unit Of Matter Characterized By Flexibility, Fineness, And High Ratio Of Length To Thickness.

Fibre (flax) = Flax Cultivated Mainly For Fibre Production As Distinct From That Cultivated For Linseed-oil Production.

Fibre Extent = See Fibre Length

Fibre Length = (a) Crimped Length, The Distance Between The Ends Of A Fibre When Substantially Freed From External Restraint, Measured With Respect To Its General Axis Of Orientation., (b) Fibre Extent, The Distance Between Two Planes Which Just Enclose A Fibre Without

Fibre Ultimate = One Of The Unit Botanical Cells Into Which Leaf And Bast Fibres Can Be Disintegrated.

Fibre, Man-made = A Fibre Manufactured By Man As Distinct From A Fibre That Occurs Naturally.

Fibre, Regenerated = A Man-made Fibre Produced From A Naturally Occurring Fibre-forming Polymer By A Process That Includes Regeneration Of The Original Polymer Structure.

Fibre, Synthetic = A Man-made Fibre Produced From A Polymer Built Up By Man From Chemical Elements Or Compounds, In Contrast To Fibres Made By Man From Naturally Occurring Fibre-forming Polymers.

Fibrid = A Netted Filamentary Or Fibrillar Structure, Substantially Longer In One Dimension Than In The Other Two That Exhibits A Capacity For Mechanical Entanglement With Other Structures And Much Higher Water-holding Capacity Than Fibres Produced By Conventional

Fibrillae = Specks Visible On The Surface Of Silk Yarns.

Fibrillated = A Finish Which Causes Tiny Fibrils Or Fibrous Elements To Be Spilt From The Fibers And Protrude From The Surface Of The Fabric. Results In A Frosted, Hazy, Laundered Appearance And A Soft Hand. Common On Lyocell Fabrics.

Fibrillated Yarn = A Yarn Produced By The Process Of Fibrillation.

Fibrillated-film Fibre = Staple Fibre Produced By Cutting, Chopping Or Stretch-breaking Fibrillated Yarn Or Fibrillated Film Tow.

Fibrillated-film Tow = An Assembly Of Fibrillated Textile Films

Fibrillated-film Yarn = Yarn Produced From Fibrillating Film That Has Been Converted Into A Longitudinally Fibrillated Structure (cf. Polymer Tape).

Fibrillating Film = A Polymer Film In Which Molecule Orientation Has Been Induced By Stretching To Such A Degree That It Is Capable Of Being Converted Into Yarn Or Twine By Manipulation, E.g., By Twisting Under Tension Which Results In The Formation Of A Longitudinally Split

Fibrillating Roller = A Pinned Roller Used For Fibrillation.

Fibrillation = The Process Of Splitting A Longitudinally Oriented Textile Film Or Tape Into A Network Interconnected Fibres., Note: Processes For Producing Fibrillation May Be Divided Into Two Groups:, (a) Those Producing Random Splitting To Give A Relatively Coarse Net

Fibroin = The Part Of A Silk Thread Remaining After The Gum Has Been Discharged.

Fichu = Large Neckerchief At The End Of The 18th Century That Was Worn Around The Neck And Shoulders Together With The Robe À L'anglaise.

Figue = A Fibre From The Leaf Of The Plant Furcraea Macrophylla.

Figured Velvet = A Velvet Fabric With A Design In Relief Created By Cutting Or Pressing Of The Pile..

Filament = A Fibre Of Indefinite Length

Filament = The finished fiber used in sheer hosiery is called filament yarn. It is characterized by continuous length and is extruded either as monofilament yarns, which is composed of one single strand, or multifilament yarn which is made up of several filaments bu

Filament Blend Yarn = A Filament Yarn Which Contains Separate Filaments Of Two Distinct Types, The Filaments Being More Or Less Randomly Blended Over The Cross-section Of The Yarn.

Filament Count = The number of individual filaments that make up a thread or yarn.

Filament Socks = Sheer, dark-toned men's dress or formal hosiery made usually of filament yarns.

Filament Yarn = A Yam Composed Of One Or More Filaments That Run Essentially The Whole Length Of The Yarn. Yams Of One Or More Filaments Are Usually Referred To As Monofilament Or Multifilament Respectively.

Filament Yarn = A yarn composed of long strands of synthetic fibers which continue the entire length of the yarn. The basic yarns used in ladies hosiery are all filament yarns. To describe the size of filament yarns, the term denier (weight-per-unit-length) is used.

Filamentation = A Fibrous Or Hairy Appearance Due To Broken Filaments On The Surface Of A Yarn Package Or Fabric.

Filler (usa) = A Synonym, Used In North America, For Weft Yams.

Filler Fabric. = A Rubber-coated Cross-woven Fabric Which Is Placed Around The Bead Section Assembly Of A Tyre And Serves To Reinforce The Join Between Apex And Casing Plies. (in All-metallic Radial-ply Tyres This Filler Often Consists Of A Ply Of Wire Cords)

Filling = (1) Non-substantive And Generally Insoluble Materials, Such As China Clay, Gypsum, Etc., Added To Fabrics Together With Starches Or Gums During Finishing To Add Weight Or To Modify Their Appearance And Handle., Note 1: This Term Is Usually Applied Only To

Finger Band = A reinforcement just under the waistband of all nude pantyhose to give protection against fingernail punctures when pulling up the pantyhose.

Finish = A Term Used Broadly In The Paint, Paper, Printing Ink, Leather, Plastics And Textile Industries To Include The Added Materials, The Finishing Processes Employed, And The Final Result., (1) A Substance Or Mixture Of Substances Added To A Substrate At Any S

Finish = Perfection With Which The Garment / Fabric Is Completed.

Finishing = Includes all sock and sheer hosiery manufacturing steps excluding knitting and sewing. For socks, it includes bleaching, scouring and dyeing, boarding, pairing, ornamentation, folding and packaging. For sheers, it includes dyeing, boarding, pairing, and p

Firm = Refers To A Fabric With A Relatively Solid, Compact Texture, Good Body And Reduced Drape.

Firm Support = Support pantyhose that give more support because heavier weights (usually 70) of spandex are used.

Fishmouth Toe = A method for closing a non-reciprocated toe in which the seam runs parallel to the bottom of the foot rather than across the top of the toe.

Fishnet = A Wide, Coarse, Relatively Heavy Mesh Used In Apparel And Trimming.

Fishnet = Knitted knee-highs, stockings or pantyhose with a very wide open knit resembling a fish net. Very stylish and fashionable, but very porous providing little warmth or protection or cosmetic covering.

Fit = It is the combination of yarn and construction that determines the adaptability of hosiery and bodywear to the human form. Stretch and recovery of yarns and knit construction contribute to a garment's fit.

Five-Eighths Hose = Hosiery which reach five-eighths of the way from the ankle to the knee. (Also called golf socks).

Fixation Accelerator = A Product Added To A Finishing Formulation To Speed Up, Or Lower The Temperature Required For, Chemical Reaction.

Flame Resistant = Refers To A Fabric Which Will Burn Only When The Source Of The Flame Remains Lit, And Will Quickly Self Extinguish When The Source Is Removed. Standards For Flame Resistance Are Generally Set According To The End Use Of The Fabric. Flame Resistance May Be

Flame Stitch = A Zig Zag Design That Suggests A Flame.

Flammability = The test to determine if fabric will ignite under controlled conditions.

Flannel = A Light To Medium Weight Woven Fabric With A Soft, Slightly Napped Surface . Expensive Flannels Of Wool And Wool Blends Are Usually Napped And Fulled Whereas Less Expensive Flannels Of Cotton And Other Fibers Are Usually Just Napped.

Flannelette = A Fabric Made From Cotton Warp And Soft-spun Cotton Weft, The Fabric Being Subsequently Raised On Both Sides To Give An Imitation Of The True Woollen Flannel. The Weave May Be Plain, Plain With Double-end Warp, Or Twill., Note 1: It May Be Woven Grey And

Flash Curing = See Curing

Flash Spinning = A Modification Of The Accepted Dry-spinning Method In Which A Solution Of A Polymer Is Extruded At A Temperature Well Above The Boiling Point Of The Solvent Such That On Emerging From The Spinneret Evaporation Occurs So Rapidly That The Individual Filamen

Flash-spun Fabric = A Nonwoven Formed From The Fine Fibrillation Of A Film By The Rapid Evaporation Of Solvent And Subsequent Bonding During Extrusion.

Flat Fabric = A Two-dimensional Woven Or Knitted Fabric That Has No Pile Loops.

Flat Knit = The second most widely used construction. Sock fabric knitted on a single cylinder machine and producing a fine, smooth surface with a jersey-like appearance. Used for casual socks of all types, some varieties of work socks, for children's hosiery, and in

Flat Knitting Machine = A Weft-knitting Machine Having Straight Needle Beds Carrying Independently Operated Latch Needles., Note 1: Rib Machines (v-type) Have Two Needle Beds, Which Are Opposed To Each Other In Inverted-v Formation., Note 2: Purl Machines Have Two Needle Beds Ho

Flat Metal Yarn = A Yarn Consisting Of One Or More Continuous Lengths Of Metal Strip Or Incorporating One Or More Continuous Length(s) As A Major Component., Note1: A Notable Example Is A Singles Metal Yarn In Banknotes, Which May Be O.50mm (0.020in.) Wide And 0.08 Mm (0.0

Flat Screen Printed = In Screen Printing A Separate Screen Is Created For Each Color . The Open Mesh Part Of The Screen Corresponds To The Area To Be Printed In That Color. The Areas Where Color Is Not To Pass Through Are Blocked. Dye Paste Is Forced Through The Open Mesh Area

Flat Setting = The Setting Of Fabric At Open-width. The Term Is Particularly Used In The Finishing Of Woven Wool Fabrics, Where Setting Is Usually Effected By Steaming Under Pressure.

Flat Yarn = (1) Descriptive Of Full Drawn Continuous-filament Yarns Substantially Without Twist And Untextured (see Also Twistless Yarn.), (2) A Synonym For Straw

Flat Yarn = This term is often used by knitters and coverers to indicate raw yarn they use. Flat yarns have no stretch unless they are textured. They are also used as the alternate course in many sheer spandex styles. (See Raw Yarn)

Flax = (1) Plants Of The Species Linum Usitatissimum Cultivated For The Production Of Fibre, Or Seed And Fibre., (2) Fibre Extracted From Flax Plants.

Flax Fibre Bundle = One Of The Aggregates Of Ultimate Fibre That Run From The Base Of The Stem Up To The Top Of The Branches Of Flax Straw. They Are Each Composed Of Large Numbers Of Ultimate Fibres Overlapping Each Other.

Flax Fibre Strands = Flax Fibres After Removal From The Plant, Consisting In The Cross-section Of More Than One Ultimate Fibre.

Flax Tow = Short Flax Fibres That Are Removed During The Scutching Or Hackling Processes:, (a) Rug Tow: Short Flax Fibre Removed During Scutching And Containing Extraneous Woody Material;, (b) Re-scutched Tow: Short Fibre Which Has Been Cleaned In A Tow-scutching Ap

Flax Yarn Bundle = The Standard Length By Which Wet-spun Flax Yarns Are Bought And Sold. The 'bundle' Traditionally Contained 60000 Yards (about 55000 M) Of Yarn.

Flax, Green (obsolescent) = Scutched Flax Produced From Deseeded Straw Without Any Intermediate Treatment Such As Retting.

Flax, Line (obsolescent) = Hackled Flax

Flax-spun = A Term Applied To Staple Yam That Has Been Prepared And Spun On Machinery Originally Designed For Spinning Yarns From Flax.

Fleece = A Fabric With A Thick, Soft Nap Or Pile Resembling Sheep's Wool. Commonly A Knit Which Has Been Brushed And Sheared But May Be Woven.

Fleece Wool = Any Wool As Shorn From A Living Sheep. The Term Is In Use To Distinguish This Wool From Other Forms Such As Skin Wool.

Fleecy = Resembling A Wool Fleece In Appearance And Handle, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Having A Fine, Soft, Open, And Raised Structure.

Fleecy Fabric (weft-knitted) = A Weft-knitted Fabric Composed Of Three Separate Yarns; A Ground Yarn Of Normal Count, A Finer Binding Yarn, And A Thicker Fleecy Yarn Which Is Held Into The Fabric At Close Intervals By The Binding Yarn. The Fleecy Yarn Appears On The Back Of Plain-knitt

Float Loop = The needle is not raised and the yarn which should have been associated with the needle goes behind the needle and appears as a float. The spandex elastic in the waistband is floated into the garment.

Flock = A Material Obtained By Reducing Textile Fibres To Fragments As By Cutting, Tearing, Or Grinding. There Are Two Main Usages:, (a) Stuffing Flock: Fibres In Entangled Small Masses Or Beads, Usually Of Irregular Broken Fibres, Obtained As A By-product, As, F

Flock Printed = A Method Of Printing Resulting In Short Fibers, Rather Than Color, Being Applied In A Design To The Surface Of The Fabric . The Fabric May Be Printed With An Adhesive And The Fiber Dusted Onto It, Or The Fibers May Be Contained In The Adhesive, Or The Fib

Flock Printing = A Method Of Fabric Ornamentation In Which Adhesive Is Printed On And Then Finely Chopped Fibres Are Applied All Over By Means Of Dusting-on, An Air-blast, Or Electrostatic Attraction. The Fibres Adhere Only To The Printed Areas And Are Removed From The Un

Flocked = A Method Of Applying Short Fibers Rather Than Color To The Entire Surface Of The Fabric . The Fabric May Be Printed With An Adhesive And The Fiber Dusted, Onto It ,or The Fibers May Be Contained In The Adhesive Or The Fibers May Be Applied Electrostatical

Flocked Carpets = Carpets Manufactured By Applying Short Chopped Lengths Of Fibre (flock) To An Adhesive-coated Backing Fabric. The Application Is Usually Carried Out Electrostatically.

Flocking = Design applied to a boot, usually soft and fuzzy in appearance.

Flocks (wool) = Waste Fibres Obtained From Wool During The Different Finishing Processes.

Floral = Refers To Design Motifs Dominated By Flowers.

Flounce = A Band Of Cloth Or Lace Fluting Around A Garment To Which It Is Attached Only By Its Upper Edge.

Fluff = Lint Or Fluff That Has Accumulated On A Knitting Machine And Become Incorporated In The Fabric.

Fluff Ball = See Lint Ball

Fluidity = A Measure Of The Ease With Which A Fluid Flows; Numerically The Reciprocal Of Viscosity. The Unit Of Fluidity Is The Reciprocal Pascal Second (pa-1 S-1)., Note: The Fluidity Of Dilute Solutions Of Polymers Is Inversely Related To The Polymer Molecular Wei

Fluorescent Brightener = See Optical Brightener

Fluorescent Whitening Agent = See Optical Brightener

Fluorofibre (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Linear Macromolecules Made From Fluorocarbon Aliphatic Monomers.

Fly = Fibres That Fly Out Into The Atmosphere During Processing.

Flyer Spinning = A Spinning System In Which Yarn Passes Through A Revolving Flyer Leg Guide On To The Package. The Yarn Is Wound-on By Making The Flyer And Spinning Package Rotate At Slightly Different Speeds

Flyshot Loom = A Multi-piece Loom For Weaving Narrow Fabrics In Which Each Shuttle Is Knocked Through The Open Shed By Means Of A Peg Fixed In A Slide. The Term Is Also Sometimes Applied To Single-head Narrow-fabric Looms.

Foam Bonding = A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which A Fibre Web Or Batt Is Treated By The Application Of A Liquid In The Form Of A Foam.

Foam Laminated = A Layer Of Foam Usually Polyurethane, Pvc Or Latex Is Bonded To The Fabric With Adhesive Or Fused To The Fabric With Heat. Generally Results In A "breathable" Fabric. Used For Footwear , Outerwear And Carpet Backings.

Foambacked Fabric = A Combined Fabric Usually Having Two Layers, One Of Which Is Of Cellular Plastics Material.

Fold = See Folded Yarn

Folded Yarn; = A Yarn In Which Two Or More Single Yarns Are Twisted Together (fold) In One Operation, E.g., Two-fold Yarn, Three-fold Yarn, Etc., Note: In Some Sections Of The Textile Industry, E.g., The Marketing Of Hand-knitting Yams, These Yarns Are Referred To As Tw

Folk Weave = A Term Applied To Any Construction Which, When Used In Loosely Woven Fabrics Made From Coarse Yams, Gives A Rough And Irregular Surface Effect. Coloured Yarns Are Commonly Used To Produce Weftway And/or Warpway Stripes.

Fontange = A Bow On A Ladies' Headdress Worn In The Late 17th And Early 18th Centuries, Named After The Duchesse De Fontanges. The Term Is Often Incorrectly Applied To The Whole Headdress.

Footed Sock = A sock knitted to conform to foot shape - as contrasted with a tube sock.

Footies = Short, below the ankle bone hosiery of varying weight and fiber content. Often called slipper socks and have varying uses such as athletic wear, casual wear, and come in different sizes for all age groups.

Footsocks = Hosiery with a top which does not extend above the ankle bone. Also known as "footies".

Forehead Cloth Or Cross Cloth = 16th And 17th Century Term For A Band Covering The Front Of A Woman's Head. It Was Often Triangular.

Forte Of A Garment = Means The Strong Point Of The Garment

Foulard = See Padding Mangle

Foulard = 1. A Lightweight, Lustrous, Soft 2x2 Twill Fabric Usually Found Printed . Used In Neckties Scarves Dresses. 2. Small All Over Geometric Print Design Usually On A Plain Solid Ground Typical Of Those Found On Neckties.

French Clean = See Dry Clean

French Terry = A Knit Jersey With Loops On One Side. Sometimes Napped To Make Fleece.

Frey = Threads Which Come Out From The Fabric During Handling.

Friction Calendering = See Calendaring

Friction Spinning = A Method Of Open-end Spinning Which Uses The External Surface Of Two Rotating Rollers To Collect And Twist Individual Fibres Into A Yarn. At Least One Of The Rollers Is Perforated So That Air Can Be Drawn Through Its Surface To Facilitate Fibre Collection

Friction-twisting = The Generation Of False-twist ( See False-twisting) By A Device In Which The Yarn Lies In Contact With One Or More Surfaces Of High Friction Driven In A Direction At Substantial Angle To The Yarn Axis. In Practice, Friction Disks, Belts Or Bushes Are Comm

Frieze = A Pile Fabric With The Loops Left Uncut . Usually The Loops Are Sheared To Various Heights To Form A Pattern. Used Widely For Upholstery And Slipcovers.

Frisons = The First Waste Obtained In The Process Of Reeling Silk Cocoons. It Is Composed Of The Tangled Beginning Of The Silk Filament That Is Removed By The Reeler Up To The Point When The Filament Begins To Reel Properly.

Fugitive Tint = A Colorant For Application To Textile Materials For Their Identification During Handling. The Colorant Must Be Removed Easily During Normal Textile Scouring Or Dyeing Procedures.

Fuji = A Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric Originally Of Silk But Now Usually Of Polyester Bi-component Yarn Which Gives The Appearance Of A Subtle Texture On The Surface . Used In Blouses, Dresses.

Fujiette = A Medium Weight Fabric With A Filament Yarn Warp And A Spun Yarn Weft . Usually It Has A Fine Crosswise Rib. Commonly Found In Rayon And Blends Of Acetate And Rayon . Used In Blouses, Dresses.

Fulled = See Milled/fulled.

Full-Fashioned = Full-fashioned stockings are knitted flat, and the two sides are united afterwards by a seam up the back. As a result of decreasing stitches over the calf to make the hose narrower in the ankle, small "fashion markings" or loops are visible running parall

Full-fashioned; Fully-fashioned = Terms Applied To Knitted Fabrics And Garments That Are Shaped Wholly Or In Part By Widening And/or Narrowing By Loop Transference To Increase Or Decrease The Number Of Wales.

Fusibles = Refers To A Fabric, Usually A Nonwoven, That Can Be Bonded To Another Fabric With Heat And Pressure . Used As Interlinings To Give Body And Shape To A Fabric.

Gabardine = A Tightly Woven Durable Twill, Usually 2x2 Right Handed, With A Distinct Twill Line. Common Used In Men's And Women's Trousers, Rainwear And A Variety Of Other Uses.

Gait (flax) = A Large Handful Of Loose, Pulled Flax, Stood Up On End In A Cone Form To Dry.

Gait (lace machines) = (1) The Distance Between The Centres Of Adjacent Comb Blades., (2) A Measure Of The Distance Over Which A Thread Is Moved,

Gait (weaving) = A Full Repeat Of The Draft In The Healds, Or In The Case Of Jacquard, In One Complete Row Of The Harness

Gait; Gait Up (weaving) = General Terms Used To Describe The Positioning Of The Warp, Healds, And Reed In A Loom, In Readiness For Weaving. Where Drop Wires Are Mounted On The Warp During Warp Preparation, Gaiting Also Includes The Positioning Of The Drop Wires.

Gaiting (knitting) = See Gating (knitting)

Galants Or Gallants = Small Ribbon Bows Which Were Worn In The Mid 17th Century In The Hair And Attached To The Garments In Various Places.

Galatea = A Durable, Warp Faced, Left Handed Twill Fabric Often Found In White And Stripes . Used In Children's Wear, Uniforms.

Galloon = Lace.

Gamla Buti = A Popular Motif In Textile Design In India, Consisting Of Flowers Of Different Kinds Growing In A Flowerpot, Neatly Arranged.

Gamma Value = The Mean Number Of Xanthate Groups Per 100 Glucose Residues In Cellulose Xanthate.

Garters = Ribbon Tied Around The Leg To Hold Up The Stockings.

Gas = See Singe

Gas Fume Fading = An Irreversible Change In Hue Which Occurs When Textiles, Particularly Cellulose Ethanoate ( Acetate) And Triethanoate (triacetate) Dyed With Certain Blue Anthraquinone Disperse Dyes Are Exposed To Oxides Of Nitrogen Which Arise From, For Example, Gas Or

Gassed Yarn = A Yarn That Has Been Passed Through A Flame Or Over A Heated Element To Remove Surface Fibres.

Gating (knitting) = The Relative Alignment Of 2 Sets Of Knitting Elements E.g., Needles, On Knitting Machines. Two Forms Of Needle Gating (rib And Interlock) Are Common And May Be Interchangeable On The Same Machine. Types Of Gating Are: (a) Interlock Gating:  Interlock Gait

Gauge = The measurement of the distance between needles in a knitting machine. Two- thirds of the gauge equals the number of needles per inch. For example, on a 60 gauge machine there are 60 needles to 1-1/2 inches.

Gauze = A Light-weight, Open-texture Fabric Produced In Plain Weave Or Simple Leno Weave.

Gauze Weaving = A Term Commonly Used As A Synonym For Leno Weaving; Strictly, A Method Of Producing The Simpler Types Of Light-weight Fabric By Leno Weaving.

Gauze/cheesecloth = A Loosely Woven, Thin, Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Cotton.

Gear-crimped Yarn = A Form Of Textured Yarn In Which The Heated Yarn Is Passed Between A Pair Of Gear Wheels Or Through Some Similar Device.

Gel Dyeing = A Continuous Tow Dyeing Method In Which Soluble Dyes Are Applied To Wet-spun Fibres (e.g., Acrylic Or Modacrylic Fibres) In The Gel State (i.e., After Extrusion And Coagulation, But Before Drawing And Drying).

Genappe Yarn = A Gassed Worsted Yarn. (genappe In Belgium.)

General Athletic = Many sport athletic socks today are designed for specific uses. A general or basic athletic sock is multi-purposed without a specific athletic sport in mind.

Generic Name = When Used Here A Name To Distinguish Different Classes Of Textile Fibre. For Natural Fibres, Distinguishing Attribute Is The Fibre Source; For Man-made Fibres (see Fibre, Man-made) Chemical Difference, Which Often Results In Distinctive Property Differenc

Geometric = Refers To Designs Dominated By Relatively Simple, Clearly Defined Geometric Shapes.

Georgette = A Lightweight, Plain Weave, Crepe Fabric With A Pebbly Texture And Slightly Raspy Hand. Uses High Twist Yarns Which Alternate Between S And Z Twist Every Thread Or 2 In Both Warp And Weft . Used For Blouses, Dresses.

Geotextile = A Textile Material Used By Civil Engineers As A Component Of Earthworks.

Ghagho = A Woman's Dress, Closely Related To The Abbo (q.v.). The Skirt Part Of The Abagho Was Often More Flared Than That Of An Abbo, The Ample Gathers At Either Side Of The Waist Lending It Peculiar Gracefulness When The Wearer Moved.

Ghaghra = Skirt, Usually With A Great Deal Of Flare. The Simple Ghaghras Have Only One Vertical Seam, Which Turns The Cloth Or Ghaghra-pata Into A Tube, Fastened With A Drawstring Passing Through A Long, Narrow Slot At The Waist. Flared Ghaghras Are Made Up Of, Sev

Gherdar = Flared With An Ample Skirt, As In A Gherdarjama.

Ghundi = Loop; Generally Used To Hold The Little Button-like Boss Called The Tukma.

Ghutanna = A Short Paoan (q. V.), Worn By Men, Tight And Ending Just Below The Knees. Much Favoured In 19th Century Sikh Punjab.

Gigging = The Process Of Raising A Nap On Fabrics By Means Of A Teazle Machine.

Gill Box = A Drafting Machine, Used In Worsted Processing, In Which The Motion Of The Fibres Is In Part Controlled By Pins Fixed On Moving Bars (pinned Fallers).

Gilling = A System Of Drafting In Which The Direction Of The Fibres Relative To One Another In A Sliver Is Controlled By Pins.

Gin Cut Cotton = Cotton That Has Been Damaged In Ginning By The Cutting Saws To The Extent That Its Value Is Reduced.

Gingham = A Plain-weave, Light-weight Cotton Fabric, Approximately Square In Construction, In Which Dyed Yarns, Or White And Dyed Yarns, Form Small Checks Or, Less Usually, Narrow Stripes., Note: If Fibres Other Than Cotton Are Used The Term Should Be Suitably Qual

Ginning = A Process That Removes Cotton Fibres (lint) From The Seed.

Girdle Top = Pantyhose with a sewn-on girdle, for the firmest possible tummy control.

Glass (fibre) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made Of Mixed Silicates.

Glaze = To Produce A Smooth, Glossy, Plane Surface On A Fabric By Heat, Heavy Pressure, Or Friction., Note: Glazing May Be Produced Intentionally, E.g., By Friction Calendering, Or As A Fault.

Glen Plaid ( Also Called Glen Urquhart) = A Popular Scottish District Check Made Of Elements Of Houndstooth And Guard's Check Often With A Fine Line Overplaid In A Contrasting Color.

Glimmer = This term refers to a light reflection from the yarn, mainly from a trilobal yarn which gives the glimmer effect by reflecting the light.

Glospan = A registered trademark for spandex by Globe Manufacturing Company. Used in hosiery for its better fit and shape retention, comfort, and/or support.

Golf = A sock designed specifically for use by golfers, particularly during hot weather. Generally has cushioning and is generally short and below the ankle bone.

Gondola = Display module with shelves or slots to hold hosiery or other merchandise.

Gore = The center of the heel or toe pocket, created in the knitting process, sometimes giving the appearance of a seam.

Gossypium. = The Generic Name Of The Cotton Plant.

Gota = Narrow Ribbon Made Of 'gold' Or 'silver' Thread.

Graduated Support = This type of support hosiery is more comfortable because there are no sudden changes in the tightness of the spandex going up and down the leg.

Graduation = The tapering of the leg from the top to the bottom by tightening the stitches to give a proper fit at the ankle, knee, thigh, and the top of the panty.

Graft Polymerization = The Production Of A Branched Macro-molecule, With A High Molecular Weight Backbone Of One Polymeric Species, To Which A Second Polymer Is Attached (grafted) At Intervals.

Grain = Another Word Used For The Length Wise (weft Yarn) Or Cross-wise (warp Yarn) Threads Of The Fabric.

Grass Bleaching = A Process For Bleaching Linen Cloth After It Has Been Washed By Exposing It, While Spread Our On A Grass Lawn Or Field Known As A Green, To The Action Of The Elements.

Grassing (crofting) = See Grass Bleaching

Grease Wool = Sheep's Wool Still Containing The Natural Grease.

Greasy Piece = A Piece Of Woollen Fabric As It Comes From The Loom

Green Flax (obsolescent) = Scutched Flax Produced From Deseeded Straw Without Any Intermediate Treatment Such As Retting.

Greige = Fabric That Has Not Been Bleached, Dyed Or Finished After Production. If Woven Sometimes Called Loomstate/See Grey Goods.

Greige = (pronounced "gray") Greige goods are any fabric as it comes off the knitting machine before bleaching, scouring, or dyeing.

Grenadine = A Leno Weave Fabric With High Twist Yarns Often With Woven In Stripes, Checks Or Other Patterns . Used For Dresses, Blouses Curtains.

Grey Goods = Woven Or Knitted Fabrics As They Leave The Loom Or Knitting Machine, I.e., Before Any Bleaching, Dyeing Or Finishing Treatment Has Been Given To Them. Some Of These Fabrics, However, May Contain Dyed Or Finished Yams., Note: In Some Countries, Particularl

Grey Scale = A Series Of Pairs Of Neutrally Coloured Chips, Showing Increasing Contrast Within Pairs, Used Visually To Assess Contrasts Between Other Pairs Of Patterns: For Example The Iso (international Organization For Standardization) Grey Scales Comprise Two Serie

Grinding (rag) = A Local Term For Pulling.

Grist = See Count

Gros Point = Also Known As Point De Venise And Venetian Lace; Very Expensive Heavy Lace From Venice, The Most Fashionable Material For Cravats Among Aristocrats And Royalty In The 17th Century. The Lace Was Usually Held Together With A Ribbon Or Cravat String, Or Sewn

Grosgrain = A Firm, Tightly Woven Fabric With A Heavy, Pronounced, Crosswise Rib. Used For Neckties, Millinery, Trim . The Term Often Describes Ribbon But May Be A Full Width Fabric As Well.

Grospoint = A Durable, Uncut Loop Pile Fabric Used Mainly For Upholstery.

Guard Hairs = Fibres Which Project Beyond The Under-coat Of Some Mammals. They Are Usually Coarser Than Under-coat Fibres.

Guipure Lace = A Needlepoint Lace Made With A Heavy Buttonhole Stitch And With The Pattern On A Coarse Mesh Or Held Together With Connecting Threads.

Gum Waste = Waste Comprising All Broken Silk Threads That Have Been Discarded During Reeling, Or At The Inspection Of The Skeins, And That Have Not Undergone Any Further Processing.

Gum-sericin = A Gelatinous Protein, Usually Comprising 20% To 30% By Mass Of Raw Silk, Cementing The Two Fibroin Filaments (brins) In A Silk Fibre (bave).

Gunny = A Strong, Coarse, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Jute . Similar To Burlap But Heavier And Coarser. Used For Baling And Sacks.

Gussett = A term that means crotch panel in pantyhose. The "gussett" can be all nylon, or can be cotton/nylon. It can be any shape from diamond to full back panel, but always means there is an extra piece sewn in at the crotch area.

H = H

Habit = In The 17th Century It Meant For Men The Suit Of Clothes All In The Same Cloth Or Colour. The Court Habit In The 17th And 18th Centuries Meant Men's Clothes, And The Grand Habit Women's, Worn Only At Court And At Festivities Where The Court Was Present.

Hackling (flax) = A Process In Which Stricks Of Scutched Flax Are Combed From End To End, Both To Remove Short Fibre, Naps (or Neps), And Non-fibrous Material, And To Sub-divide And Parallelize The Fibre Strands.

Hair = Animal Fibre Other Than Sheep's Wool Or Silk., Note: It Is Recognized That This Definition Implies A Distinction Between Sheep's Wool And The Covering Of Other Animals, Notwithstanding The Similarity In Their Fibre Characteristics. Thus The Crimped Form A

Hairy = Refers To Fabrics With A Lot Of Protruding Fibers On The Surface.

Half-Hose = Short hosiery of a length to cover from the ankle halfway between the ankle and the knee, with rib cuff and plain leg and foot; standard for men.

Hammered Satin = A Satin Fabric With An Allover Surface Texture That Looks Like Hammered Metal.

Hand = The tactile qualities of a fabric such as softness, elasticity, fineness and resilience.

Handkerchief Linen = A Fine Lightweight Plain Weave Fabric Of Linen Or A Linen Blend. Used In Blouses, Dresses

Handle (Hand) = The reaction to the sense of touch when fabrics are grasped in hand. Many factors which give "character"combine in the judgment as to handle.

Handle; Hand (u.s.) = The Quality Of A Fabric Or Yarn Assessed By The Reaction Obtained From The Sense Of Touch., Note: It Is Concerned With The Subjective Judgement Of Roughness, Smoothness, Harshness, Pliability, Thickness, Etc.

Hank = (1) A Synonym For Skein. Textile Linear Material In Coiled Form., (2) A Definite Length Of Sliver, Slubbing, Roving, Or Yarn, E.g., In The Metric System It Is 1000 Metres., (3) A Synonym For Count As Applied To Sliver, Slubbing, Or Roving.

Hank Sizing = The Application Of Size Solution To Yarn In Hanks.

Hard = Describing Fabrics With A Firm, Coarse Hand.

Hardening = Treatment Of Man-made Regenerated-protein Filaments So As To Render Them Completely Insoluble In Cold Water And Cold Dilute Saline Solutions.

Harlequin = A Design Motif Dominated By Diamond Shapes Or Checks In 3 Or More Contrasting Colors As In A Harlequin Costume.

Harris Tweed = A Woolen Tweed Fabric Hand Woven On The Outer Hebrides Islands Off The Coast Of Scotland. (harris Is One Of These Islands) Genuine Harris Tweeds Are Certified By The Harris Tweed Association.

Haul-off Roller; Haul-off Roll = The First Driven Roller Around Which An Extruded Yarn Passes After Leaving The Spinneret, And Whose Surface Speed Determines The Spin-stretch Ratio.

Haute Couture = Hi-fashion Garments (of Which Only A Single Price Is Produced) It’s Extravagant, It’s Irrational, It’s Unique And It’s Totally Unaffordable.

Head (jute) = One Of A Number Of Bunches Of Raw Jute Forming A Bale. The Heads Are Each Given A Twist And Folded Over Before Being Made Into The Bale.

Heat Setting = The Process Of Conferring Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usually By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.

Heat Transfer Printed = A Method Of Printing Fabric By Transferring A Design From A Paper To Fabric By Passing Them Together Through Heated Rollers Or A Heated Press. Also Called Sublistatic Printing Or Sublimation Printing.

Heat Transfers = The application of a design or logo to a sock by transferring a design from specially printed paper to the fabric by means of heat and pressure. A term used interchangeably with "decals".

Heather = See Melange/heather

Hemp, True = A Fine Light-coloured, Lustrous, And Strong Bast Fibre, Obtained From The Hemp Plant, Cannabis Sativa L. , Note: The Colour And Cleanliness Vary Considerably According To The Method Of Preparation Of The Fibre, The Lower Grades Being Dark Cream And Contai

Henequen = The Fibre Obtained From The Leaf Of Agava Fourcroydes Lemaire.

Herringbone = A Broken Twill Weave In Which The Twill Line Reverses Regularly Forming Zig Zag V's. Also Called Fishbone.

Hessen = See Barras.

Hessian = See Burlap/hessian.

High Charged System = A Method Of Dry Cleaning In Which An Oil-soluble Reagent Such As Petroleum Sulphonate Is Added To The Solvent So That A Significant Amount Of Water Can Be Added To Obtain A Substantially Clear Dispersion Of Water In The Solvent. In A High-charged System T

High Count = Refers To Fabrics Woven With A Relatively High Thread Count, Resulting In A Dense, Tight Fabric.

High Twist = Refers To Yarn That Are Manufactured With A Relatively High Number Of Turns Per Inch . This May Be Done To Increase The Yarn Strength Or To Give The Fabric A Crepey Texture Or Hand.

High Twist = A yarn spinning process in which more twist is used than is needed for normal processing to provide desired aesthetic properties such as harshness, brightness, or to reduce hairiness on the yarn surface.

High/low = 1. Pile Fabrics That Have Variation In Pile Height 2 A Corduroy With Wales Of 2 Or More Different Widths.

High-bulk Yarn = A Yarn That Has Been Treated Mechanically, Physically Or Chemically So As To Have A Noticeably Greater Voluminosity Or Bulk.

High-Bulk Yarn = Qualitative term to describe a highly-twisted textured yarn. A bulked yarn develops more bulk than stretch in the finished fabric.

High-speed Spinning (melt Spinning) = A Melt Spinning Process In Which Filaments Are Drawn Down And Collected At High Speeds.

Hiking = Sock designed specifically for hiking enthusiasts. Generally heavy weight, with cushion or padding in the foot or heel. Designed with wicking action to carry moisture away from the foot to allow perspiration to evaporate. Usually of longer length to be us

Hog Wool; Hoggett Wool = The First Clip From A Sheep Not Shorn As A Lamb., Also Termed Tag/teg Wool (obsolescent)

Hole = Hosiery that has been ruptured by bruised, cut, burned, or abraded fabric to cause a hole to appear that will develop into a run.

Holland/shadecloth = A Plain Weave Fabric Similar To Sheeting With A Stiff Sometimes Glazed Finish . Often Of Linen Or Cotton. Frequently Used For Shades.

Hollow Filament = A Man-made Fibre Continuous Filament Or Fibre With A Single Continuous Lumen.

Hologram = A Three Dimensional Effect Produced With A Laser That Changes With The Angle Of View And Reflects Light In A Striking Way . Often Printed On Reflective Material.

Homespun = A Plain Weave Fabric Loosely Woven With Coarse Uneven Yarns That Look As If They Were Spun By Hand.

Homopolymer = A Polymer In Which The Repeating Units Are All The Same (cf. Copolymer).

Honan = A High Quality, Plain Weave Pongee Fabric Made With Wild Silk From Henan In Eastern China.

Honeycomb = A Pique Fabric With A Waffle Or Cellular Appearance. May Be Woven Or Knit.

Honeydew = The Result Of Infestation Of Growing Cotton By Aphids Of Whitefly. It Takes The Form Of More Or Less Randomly Distributed Droplets Of Highly Concentrated Sugars, Causing Cotton Stickiness.

Hopsack = See Basket Weave/hopsack.

Hose (narrow Fabric) = A Tubular Woven Fabric For Conveying Liquid Under Pressure., Note: Hose Is Manufactured In Both Unlined And Lined Forms. When Unlined, The Weave Is Plain And The Material Is Generally Flax Or Hemp With A Weaving Density So Arranged That When The Fibres Sw

Hosiery = (1) Knitted Coverings For The Feet And Legs., (2) Formerly In The UK., The Term Was Used In The Generic Sense Of All Types Of Knitted Fabrics And, Goods Made Up Therefrom.

Hosiery Knitting Machine = A Knitting Machine For The Production Of Hosiery. Most Are Small-diameter Latch-needle Circular Knitting Machines

Hot Drawing (synthetic Filaments And Films) = A Term Applied To The Drawing Of Synthetic Filaments Or Films With The Intentional Application Of External Heat.

Hot Mercerization = See Mercerization

Hottenroth Number = A Measure Of The Degree Of Ripening Of Viscose, Note: A Hottenroth Number Is Expressed As The Number Of Milliliters Of 10% Ammonium Chloride Solution That It Is Necessary To Add To A Somewhat Diluted Viscose (solution) To Induce Incipient Coagulation Unde

Houndstooth = A Pointed Broken Check Design . Most Commonly A Woven Produced With Contrasting Yarns In Groups Or Multiples Of 4, Woven In A 2x2 Twill. Sometimes Called Dogstooth.

Huarizo = See Alpaca Fibre

Huckaback = A Soft Toweling Fabric With Short, Loosely Twisted Filling Floats To Aid Absorption, And A Birdseye Or Honeycomb Surface Texture . It Is Sometimes Embroidered.

Hue = That Attribute Of Colour Whereby It Is Recognized As Being Predominantly Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Violet, Brown, Bordeaux, Etc.

Hue = Is The Shades And Degrees Of Color

Hunting = Sock designed specifically for hunting. Designed to provide both warmth to the foot during the cold weather, and wicking action to carry perspiration or water away from the foot. Generally heavier weight and longer length to wear with boots.

Hurluberlu Or Hurlupe = Appeared About 1671, A Female Hairstyle In Which Short Curls Covered The Entire Head.

Husks (silk) = Silk Waste Remaining On Cocoons At The Bottom Of The Basin After Reeling.

Hydrolysis = The Chemical Decomposition Of A Substance By Water.

Hydrophilic = Having An Affinity For Water.

Hydrophobic = Having No Affinity For Water.

Hygral Expansion = The Reversible Changes In Length And Width Of Fabrics Containing Hygroscopic Fibres As A Result Changes In Regain

I = I

Iaedryun = A Short Jacket, Often Richly Embroidered, Worn Mostly In Kutch And Saurashtra, In Combination With An Embroidered Pyjama (q.v.).

Ikat = Term Applied To The Resist-dye Process In Which Designs Are Reserved In Warp Or Weft Yarns By Tying Off Small Bundles Of Yarn With Palm-leaf Strips Or Similar Material To Prevent Penetration Of Dye. From The Indonesian Mengikat, 'to Tie' Or 'to Bind'.

Illusion = A Very Fine Sheer Net Fabric Usually Of Nylon Or Silk. Used For Veils.

Imberline = A Woven Fabric With Various Colored Stripes In The Warp Often Separated By Gold Thread. Used In Upholstery, Drapery.

Immature Cotton = Cotton In Which The Thickening Of The Fibre Wall Is Appreciably Less Than Usual., Note. If Growth Conditions Are Not Favourable, Possibly As A Result Of Attack By Disease Or Through Plant Senility, Or Occasionally Because Of The Genetic Nature Of The Vari

Indiennes = In The 17th And 18th Centuries The Name Given To All Eastern Painted And Printed Cloths, Whatever Their Country Of Origin.

Indigo = A Type Of Blue Dyestuff Originally Obtained From The Indigo Plant But Now Produced Synthetically. Used For Denim.

Indigo & Color = Refers To Yarn Dyed Fabrics Using A Combinations Of Indigo Dyed Yarns And Yarns Of Other Colors Together In The Design.

Indigo & Overprinted = Refers To Printing Done On An Indigo Denim, Indigo Chambray, Or Indigo Dyed Fabric.

Indirect Warping = The Transference Of Yam From A Package Creel Onto A Swift From Which It Is Subsequently Wound Onto A Beam.

Ingrain (filament Yarn) = Descriptive Of A Filament Yarn Composed Of Filaments Of Different Colours, The Ingrain Effect Being Produced By The Random Exposure Of The Differently Coloured Filaments At The Yarn Surface.

Ingrain (yarn) = Yarn Spun From A Mixture Of Fibres Of Different Colours, Where The Mixing Of Coloured Fibres Is Carried , Out At An Early Stage., See Also Worsted Yarns, Colour Terms

Ingrain Yarn = Yarn that has been dyed before knitting, requiring no further dyeing.

Inkle, Beggar's = A Fabric Constructed As Linsey-wolsey In The 18th And Early 19th Centuries.

In-Line = Method of hosiery display used in mass-merchandising outlets where national brands and private label merchandise are displayed along the same wall. Many mass-merchants now use an in-line system, as opposed to free-standing "boutique" displays.

Intarsia = A Knit Fabric With An Inlaid Pattern In Contrasting Color, Usually Geometric. The Design Appears On One Part Of The Fabric Rather Than All Over As A Jacquard. It Is Generally Engineered To Fall On A Certain Area Of The Garment.

Intarsia = A geometric pattern knitted-in either with a different stitch or a different color from the background. In intarsia knitting, both sides of the fabric look alike.

Intech Process = This semi-boarded process is not subjected to a full heat setting operation. ( See Semi-Boarded)

Interfacing = A Fabric, Usually A Nonwoven, That Is Meant To Be Fused Or Sewn To Another To Give It Body And Shape.

Interlining = Any One Of A Wide Variety Of Fabrics Used Between The Inner And Outer Layers Of A Garment To Improve Shape Retention, Strength, Warmth Or Bulk. Interlining May Be Of Woven, Knitted, Or Nonwoven Material And May Be Produced With Or Without A Fusible Adhesi

Interlock, Weft-knitted = A Double-faced Rib-based Structure Consisting Of Two 1 X I Rib Fabrics Joined By Interlock Loops. It Is Made On Machines Equipped With Two Sets Of Opposed Needles, From Various Materials For A Variety Of Purposes, Including Outerwear.

Intermingled Yarn = A Multifilament Yarn In Which Cohesion Is Imparted To The Filament Bundle By Entwining The Filaments Instead Of, Or In Addition To, Twisting. The Effect Is Usually Achieved By Passing Under Light Tension Through The Turbulent Zone Of An Air-jet., Note 1:

Intermingling Jet = An Air-operated Device Used As An Ancillary To Some Processes Of Yam Extrusion, Of Drawing And Texturing To Induce Intermingling

Iridescent = A Fabric With A Changeable Color Effect Depending On The Angle Of View And Lighting. It Is Usually The Result Of Weaving With One Color In The Warp And Another In The Weft.

Irish Lace = Refers To Any Lace Made In Ireland. Most Often They Are Crochet Or Needlepoint Laces.

Irish Lawn = A Lawn Fabric Produced From Fine Linen Yarns.

Irish Linen = A Woven Fabric Produced In Ireland From 100% Flax Yam.

Irish Linen Yarn = 100% Flax Yarn Spun In Ireland.

Irish Poplin = A Poplin Made From A Dyed Pure Silk Organzine Warp And A Three-fold Genapped Fine Worsted Weft. It Is A Silk-face And -back Fabric, The Weft Being Completely Covered By The Warp. The Fabric Is Usually Handwoven And Is Frequently Given A Moiré Finish.

Irregulars = Hosiery that contains minor imperfections in dimensions, size, color or knit but without obvious mends, runs, breaks or substantial damage to yarn or fabric.

Izar = A Kind Of Pyjama (q. V.).

Izarband = Drawstring At The Waist For A Garment Like The Pyjama (q.v.). Literally, 'fastening Of The Izar'

J = J

Jabot = Originally The Term Meant The Neck Opening Of The Chemise, And Its Lavce Trimmings, Showing Through The Opening At The Doublet. Early Cravat Of Lace, Often Ready-made, Worn During The 17th Century. The Lace Fell In A Soft Bunch To The Upper Chest And Was

Jackboot = Over-knee High Riding Boot With Square Toes And Low Heel, Made From Stiff Leather. Second Half Of 17th Century.

Jacquard = A Fabric With A Complicated Pattern Woven Or Knit Into It As Part Of Its Structure. For Wovens, A Jacquard Loom Is Used Which Controls Each Warp Yarn Separately, Raising Or Lowering It As Needed During Weaving To Create The Design. For Knits A Jacquard Kn

Jacquard = An intricate process for knitting patterns, designs, or textures into the sock fabric, and the method by which is produced the decorative patterns. Jacquard equipment is necessarily slower than conventional knitting machines and the lower productivity is

Jacquard (warp Knitting) = A Term Generally Applied To A Warp-knitting Machine With A String-type Jacquard Placed Above To ,control Pins Placed Between Specially Shaped Guides Mounted In A Normal Guide Bar. The Pins When, Raised Do Not Affect The Guides But When In A Low Position D

Jaffer = A Plain-weave Cotton Fabric With Warp And Weft In Different Colours Producing A Shot Effect.

Jama = Full-sleeved Outerwear For Men, Greatly Popular At The Moghul And Rajput Courts And Worn Well Into The 19th Century. Literally, "a Garment, Robe, Vest, Gown, Coat

Jamdani = Fine Cotton Muslin With A Floral Pattern Brocaded In Thick Soft Cotton. Dacca Was A Famous Center For The Production Of Fine Jamdani Work.

Janghia = Short Drawers, Worn By Men And Boys. From Sanskrit

Jaquard Mechanism (weaving) = A Shedding Mechanism, Attached To A Loom, That Gives Individual Control Of Up To Several Hundred Warp Threads And Thus Enables Large Figured Designs To Be Produced. (named After The Inventor, Joseph Marie Jacquard, 1752-1834)

Jar = See Zari.

Jaspe = A Woven Fabric With A Series Of Faint Stripes Formed By The Arrangement Of Light, Medium, And Dark Warp Yarns Or By Twisting Together 2 Yarns Of Different Colors . Used For Drapery, Upholstery, Suitings, etc.

Jaspé, Jasper = A Fabric That Has A Shaded Appearance Created By A Warp Thread Colour Pattern. It May Be Woven Or Figured, And Is Used For Bedspreads Or Curtains.

Jean = A 2/1 Warp-faced Twill Fabric Used Chiefly For Overalls Or Casual Wear. Typical Cotton Particulars 18s X 28s (32 X 21 Tex), 90 X 60 (35 Ends/cm X 24 Picks/cm).

Jerkin = Outer Doublet Worn In England In The Late 16th And Early 17th Centuries. It Was Sleeveless Or With Loose Sleeves.

Jersey = 1. Single Knit Fabric With An Intermeshing Of Stitches In The Same Direction On The Face And A Series Of Semicircular Loops On The Back. Thus The 2 Sides Appear Different. 2. A General Term Referring To Any Knit Fabric Without A Distinct Rib.

Jet Craters = Annular Deposits That Sometimes Form Around The Holes On The Face Of Jets Used In The Extrusion Of Viscose. (see Also Jet Rings.)

Jet Rings = Annular Deposits Formed Occasionally Inside The Holes Of Metal Jets Or Spinnerets When Used In The Extrusion Of Viscose, Particularly Into Coagulants Containing Much Zinc Sulphate.

Jet Spinning = A System Of Staple-fibre Spinning Which Utilises Air To Apply The Twisting Couple To The Yarn During Its Formation. The Air Is Blown Through Small Holes Arranged Tangentially To The Yarn Surface And This Causes The Yarn To Rotate. The Majority Of Systems

Jet-dyeing Machine = (1) A Machine For Dyeing Fabric In Rope Form In Which The Fabric Is Carried Through A Narrow Throat By Dye-liquor Circulated At A High Velocity., (2) A Machine For Dyeing Garments In Which The Garments Are Circulated By Jets Of Liquid Rather By Mechanical

Jhabba = Loose, Tunic-like Garment.

Jhula = A Kind Of Blouse For Children.

Jhumb = A Covering For The Head And Body Made Simply By Tying A Sheet Or Blanket At One End And Draped Over The Head.

Jupe = From The Arabic Djuba, Jacket. Jupe Had Two Meanings From The Middle Ages On Towards The Mid 17th Century, Jacket And Skirt. Only In 1672 Did The Dictionnaire De L'académie Francaise Define The Term Jupe, "part Of Women's Costume, From The Waist To The Fe

Justaucorps = Male Coat Developed In The Second Half Of The 17th Century. Tight Fitting In The Shoulders, Collarless And With Flaring Skirts And Knee-length. The Flare Was Extended And Made Wider Until The Early 18th Century. Later The Coat Became Narrow, Cut Away In T

Jute = The Fibre Obtained From The Bast Layer Of The Plants Corchorus Capsularis And Corchorus Olitorius., Note 1:commercially, Jute Is Divided Into Two Main Classes, White Jute Generally Being Associated With Corchorus Capsularis, And Dark Jute With Corchorus O

Jute-spun = Descriptive Of Staple Yarn That Has Been Prepared And Spun On Machinery Originally Designed For Spinning Yarns From Jute.

K = K

Kairi Buti = A Floral Motif In Indian Textile Design, Based On The Form Of A Green Mango With A Light Curve At The Tip.

Kalabatton = Silver-gilt Thread, Used In Embroidery.

Kalgha = A Popular Motif In Indian Textile Design, Broadly Cypress-shaped And Curving To One Sides At The Top; Crest.

Kali = Gore Wedge-shaped, Triangular Piece Of Cloth.

Kalidar Ghagra = Ghaghra (q.v.) Made Up Of Many Gored Pieces And Thus Flared In Early Sanskrit Literature.

Kanjari = Blouse Like Garment, Worn A Little Long In Front And Generally Backless, Held Together With Tie-cords, With No Shaped Parts Like Cups. From Sanskrit Kanchuki.

Kantop = Literally, 't0pi, Worn Around The Ears'. This Kind Of Cap Covers The Ears And The Back Of The Neck To Protect These Parts From Excessive Heat And Cold.

Kapadu = Cloth Used To Cover The Breasts. In Rajasthan And Gujarat A Simple Choli-blouse Is Sometimes Referred To By This Name.

Kapok = A Unicellular Seed Hair Obtained From The Fruit Pods Of The Kapok Tree Eriodendron Anfractuosum ( Formerly Known As Ceiba Pentranda)., Note. The Fibre Is Also Called Ceba, Ceiba, Java Cotton Silk Cotton, Silk Floss Etc. Indian Kapok Comes From Bombax Mala

Karchobi Work = Work Similar To Zardozi (q.v.) In Which Gold Or Silver Metal Threads Are Sewn On To Satin Or Velvet With Metallic Threads To Yield The Effect Of True Embroidery.

Kasnis = Tie-cords Or Strings Used For Tightening.

Katoris = Cups; The Word Is Used To Describe Breast-cups As In A Choli (q.v.) Or Angia (q.v.).

Keba = See Cocoon Stripping

Kemp = A Coarse Animal Fibre With A Wide Lattice-type Medulla That Is Shed From The Skin At Least Once A Year; It Is Often Shorter Than Other Fibres Of The Fleece, Has A Long Tapering Tip, And, When Completely Shed, Tapers Sharply Towards The Root End.

Kenaf = The Fibre Obtained From The Bast Layer Of The Plant Hibiscus Cannabinus., Note 1.. Kenaf Is Commonly Known As Mesta In India., Note2: Being Similar To Jute In Many Of Its Properties, Kenaf Is Used Either As An Alternative To, Or In Admixture With, Jute.

Kersey = A Fulled, Woven Fabric, Generally Of Wool Or A Wool Blend, With A Fine Lustrous Nap. Used For Overcoats.

Kibisu = See Frisons

Kilotex = A Unit Of The Tex System.

Kimkhab = Silk Fabric Brocaded With Silver And Gold. The Metal Thread Used For Brocading Is Made From A Fine Strand Of Flattened Metal Wound Over A Core Of Silk, Using Yellow Silk Under Gold, And White Silk Under Silver.

Knee Warmers = Thigh high knitted garment generally of heavier fabric that usually has no knitted foot and extends from above the ankle or calf over the knee to approximately mid thigh.

Knee-Highs = Short hosiery that comes up to just below the knee. They are styled with elastic tops and stay up without the help of garters. They became very popular with the advent of women's slacks.

Kneeing = An Unstable Condition Arising In Melt-spinning Wherein The Extrudate Forms An Inflexion On Leaving The Spinneret Instead Of Drawing Down Directly From The Orifice. The Molten Filament Thus Has A Knee-like Shape Just Below The Orifice.

Knit = To Form A Fabric By The Intermeshing Of Loops Of Yarn.

Knit Loop = This is the normal basic loop in knitting.

Knit-In Waistband = This type waistband is made of spandex and nylon and is inserted into the top of the garment while on the knitting machine. It is not attached later. It is non-binding and does not get tighter, and thus uncomfortable, during wear.

Knitting = The art of constructing fabric on needles, by the interlooping of one or more yarns in several series of connected loops hanging on and supporting one another.

Knitwear = A Term Applied In The Generic Sense To All Knitted Outer Garments Except Stockings And Socks.

Kodel = A Brand Of Polyester, Trademark Of The Eastman Chemical Company.

Kontush, Later Contouche = Generously Cut Caftan-shaped Mantle Worn In Poland. The Term Passed To Germany And The Nordic Countries Where It Referred To Women's Gowns, Robes Volantes Or Gowns À La Francaise Worn In The 18th Century.

Kurdi = A Jacket Or Coat Meant For Outerwear. The Garment Popular Under This Name In Persia Was Known In India As A Nadiji (q.v.).

Kurta = Variously Described In The Dictionaries As "a Tunic, Waist Coat, Jacket, Shirt", The Kurta Became Popular In The 18th And 19th Centuries Essentially As A Slightly Loose-fitting Garment For Outer Wear, Often With A Round Neck, Of Knee-length Or Even Longer

Kurti = A Shirt-like Garment, With Most Of The Features Of A Kurta (q.v.), But Often Worn A Little Shorter. When Worn By Women, It Is Defined As 'a Short Bodice Reaching To The Hips, With Very Short, If Any, Sleeves, Open Under The Throat.'

Kv, Kw Values = Measures Of The Filterability Of Viscose Expressed In Terms Of Either Volume, Kv Or Weight, Kw.

L = L

Labeda = A Loose, Tunic-like Garment Worn By Men, Mostly In Nepal. Possibly From Persian Libada.

Lace = A Fine Openwork Fabric With A Ground Of Mesh Or Net On Which Patterns May Be Worked At The Same Time As The Ground Is Formed Or Applied Later, And Which Is Made Of Yarn By Looping, Twisting, Or Knitting, Either By Hand With A Needle Or Bobbin, Or By Machi

Lace = Ladies sheer hosiery knitted with a pattern resembling lace and/or hosiery with lace seamed to the top of the leg or waistband.

Lahore = A Piece-dyed Dress Fabric Made From Cashmere In Small Dobby Effects.

Laid-In = The interlacing of a spandex or rubber yarn into a sock or pantyhose.

Lamb's Wool = Wool Obtained From A Lamb (a Young Sheep Up To Eight Months Old Or Up To Weaning).

Lambskin Cloth = A Term Particularly Applied To A Heavily Wefted Cotton Fabric, With A Dense Pile Of Fibre On The Surface. The Weave Is Of A Weft-sateen Character.

Lambswool = The first clip taken from a sheep up to seven months old, which explains its soft hand.

Lame = A Fabric Woven Or Knit With Metallic Yarns . It Is Usually Gold Or Silver In Color . Used In Evening Wear.

Lamé = A General Name For Fabrics In Which Metallic Threads Are A Conspicuous Feature.

Laminated = A Compound Fabric Usually Comprised Of A Continuous Sheet Of Thermoplastic Film Such As Polyurethane Or Pvc Bonded To A Base Fabric With Heat Or Adhesive.

Lampas = A Multi-colour Figured Drapery And Upholstery Fabric Similar To A Brocade, Made Of Silk, Viscose Rayon, Or Combinations Of Yams. Two Warps, One Forming The Ground And One Bind Wefts, In Regular Or Irregular Order, Form The Figure.

Lap = (1) (general) A Sheet Of Fibres Or Fabric Wrapped Round A Core With Specific Applications In Different Sections Of The Industry, E.g., Sheets Of Fibre Wound On Rollers Or Round Endless Aprons To Facilitate Transfer From One Process To The Next., Note: In

Lap Waste (wool) = A Sheet Of Fibres Accidentally Wound Round Rollers Or Aprons. It Is Substantially Without Twist And May Be Carded Without Further Processing.

Laser Cut = The Process Of Cutting A Design Into The Fabric By Using A Narrow Beam Laser To Vaporize The Fabric.

Latch Needles = One type of needle used in hosiery machines. The needle performs the basic act of knitting, pulling one loop of yarn through another.

Latent Crimp = A Crimp That Is Potentially Present In Specially Prepared Fibres Or Filaments And That Can Be Developed By A Specific Treatment Such As Thermal Relaxation Or Tensioning And Subsequent Relaxation.

Latitude of Fit = Textured yarns and spandex yarns have more fit latitude than monofilament ultra sheer yarns. Fit latitude means the lower end of the size matrix and the upper end of the size matrix can be better fit when a style employs a yarn said to have "fit latitude"

Lawn = A Fine, Plain-woven Fabric Of Linen Or Cotton, Made In Various Fine, Sheer Qualities. Various Finishes May Be Applied To A Fabric Of This Type, In Which Case The Product Is Known By The Name Of The Finish Used, E.g. Organdie

Lawn Finish = A Medium-starch Finish Applied To Lawn And Other Fine-yarn Plain Fabrics To Give A Crisp Finished Effect.

Layered = Wearing more than one pair of socks at a time for fashion effect or comfort.

Lea (cotton) = In Cotton, A Length Of 120 Yards; In Worsted 80 Yards; In Linen 300 Yards., Note: In Cotton And Worsted These Lengths Are One-seventh Of The Standard Hank. In Determining Grist. It Was Less Wasteful To Count Leas Per 1000 Grains Than Hanks Per Pound (7000

Lea (linen) = The Count Of A Flax-spun Yarn., Lea Count-strength Product; Csp; Break Factor (u.s.), The Product Of The Lea Strength, And The Actual Count Of Cotton Yarn

Leading Strings Or Tatas = Long Narrow Strips Of Cloth Attached To The Shoulders Of Small Children's Dresses To Hold Them By When They Began To Walk. These Aids Were Used In The 17th And 18th Centuries. In England, In The 18th Century, Young Girls Wore These Bands Of Cloth Until Ma

Leg Form = Form for displaying socks or sheer hosiery. Leg forms are weighted so that they are free standing and can be designed to present one or a pair of socks, stockings, pantyhose or leotards. The term, "leg form", may also describe the form used to pull a sock

Leg Warmer = Originally popular with dancers, leg warmers have become a fashion item. Knitted from wool or acrylics, leg warmers are long socks, often without feet, that can reach above the knee or higher up the thigh. Bold geometric patterns and colorful stripes are

Lehnga = A Kind Of Skirt. Worn Generally In Combination With An Odhani, Which Is Tucked Into It At The Waist. Possibly Derived From Sanskrit Lanka, Standing For The Waist, And Anga Or Limbs.

Length, Fabric = Unless Otherwise Specified, The Usable Length Of A Piece Between Any Truth Marks, Piece-ends, Or Numbering, When The Fabric Is Measured Laid Flat On A Table In The Absence Of Tension

Leno Fabric = A Fabric In Which Warp Threads Have Been Made To Cross One Another, Between The Picks, During Weaving. The Crossing Of The Warp Threads May Be A General Feature Of Plain Leno Fabrics (as Marquisette And Some Gauzes And Muslins) Or May Be Used In Combinati

Leotard = A one-piece garment, originally worn by dancers, that covers the torso. Today's leotards often double as swimsuits or fashion accessories, and are available in a variety of styles and designs.

Letona = A Bast Fibre Obtained From The Plant Agave Letonae

Leuco Dye = A Reduced Form Of A Dye From Which The Original Dye May Be Regenerated By Oxidation

Levelling = Migration Of Dye Leading To Uniform Coloration Of A Substrate.

Lever Lace = Lace Made On A Leavers Machine. The Machine Uses Mechanically Controlled Bobbins And Is Controlled By A Jacquard Mechanism. They Can Produce Fine Delicate Patterns That Resemble Handmade Laces.

Light Support = Pantyhose made with a low denier spandex in the leg, usually 40 denier or lower spandex, to give light compression on the wearer.

Limbric = A Light- To- Medium-weight, Closely Woven, Plain-weave, Cotton Fabric Made From Good-quality Yams. The Weft Is Coarser And More Closely Spaced And Has A Lower Twist Factor Than The Warp Giving A Soft Fabric In Which The Weft Predominates On Both Sides (cf

Limp = Refers To A Fabric That Is Very Drapey And Lacking In Body.

Line Flax (obsolescent) = Hackled Flax

Linear Density = The Mass Per Unit Length Of Linear Textile Material.

Linen = (1) Descriptive Of Yarns Spun Entirely From Flax Fibres., (2) Descriptive Of Fabrics Woven From Linen Yarns., (3) Descriptive Of Articles Which, Apart From Adornments, Are Made Of Yarns Spun From Flax, Note: Despite Some Usage Of This Term In Non-technica

Linen Prover = See Counting Glass

Lingerie = Feminine Underwear, Slumberwear And Similar Garments Of Fine Texture And Aesthetic Appeal., Note: The Term, Derived From The French 'lin', Referred Originally To Linen Articles, Especially Ladies' Underwear.

Link Jacquard = Type of stitch used in a patterned sock.

Linseed Flax = Varieties Of Flax Cultivated Mainly For Seed Production.

Linsey-wolsey (formerly Linsey-woolsey) = (1) A Coarse Linen Fabric., (2) A Strong, Coarse Fabric With A Linen Warp And A Worsted Weft.

Lint = (1) The Main Seed Hair Of The Cotton Plant, (cf. Linters).,(2) A Plain-weave, Highly Absorbent Material With One Raised Fleecy Surface. For Surgical Purposes It Is Sterilised.

Lint Ball = Lint Or Fluff That Has Accumulated On A Knitting Machine And Become Incorporated In The Fabric.

Linters = Whole And Broken Lint Fibres And Fuzz Fibres, Which Are Removed From Ginned Cotton Seed By A Special Ginning Process., Note: The First Ginning Of Cotton Removes Most Of The Lint Fibres From The Ordinary Raw Cotton Of Commerce. The Seed Is Then Subjected T

Liquid Ammonia Treatment = A Process During Which Textile Material Is Immersed In Or Brought Into Contact With Anhydrous Liquid Ammonia. The Treatment Confers 'flat Setting', I.e., Smooth Drying Properties And An Attractive Soft Handle To Cotton Fabrics.

Lisle = Hosiery made of lisle yarn, which is a fine, hard-twisted, long-staple cotton yarn with two or more ply.

Lisle Thread = A Highly Twisted, Plied (usually 2-ply) Good Quality Cotton Hosiery Yarn, Spun Generally In Fine Counts. All Lisle Threads Are Gassed And Some May Be Mercerized (mercerized Lisle). A Lisle Thread Was Formerly A Plied Yarn Having Singles Of Opposite Twist.

Llama Fibre (hair) = Fibre From The Fleece Of The Llama (lama Glama) That Inhabits The High Mountain Regions Of South America

Loading = Increasing The Weight Of Fabrics By The Addition Of Delequescent Salts, Starch Or China Clay. This Term Is Not Restricted To One Class Of Textile Fabrics, But Is Used Loosely In Connection With Finishing Of Wool, Cellulose, Or Silk Goods.

Locks = A Term Used In Wool-sorting For Short Oddments Of Wool Which Fall From The Skirting Tables Or Are Swept Up From The Boards. In Some Countries It Can Include Soiled Tufts And Pieces From Near The Rumps Of Sheep.

Loden = Coarse Woollen Milled Water-repellent Fabric Used For Jackets, Coats And Capes.

Loft = A bulky, fluffy quality in yarns usually produced by Turbo processing.

Lofty = A Term Applied To An Assemblage Of Fibres To Denote A Relatively High Degree Of Openness And Resilience, Or A Large Volume For A Given Mass.

Longfold = Step in hosiery production where merchandise is stored and prepared for final packaging.

Loom = A Term Used For Weaving Machine.

Loom-state = Any Woven Fabric As It Leaves The Loom Before It Receives Any Subsequent Processing.

Loose = Refers To A Fabric That Is Not Tightly Constructed And Shifts Easily.

Lousiness = See Exfoliation

Love Lock = In The First Half Of The 17th Century Men Grew One Lock Longer Than The Rest Of The Long Hair. It Is Tied With A Ribbon And Laid To The Front Of The Left Shoulder ("cavalier"-style).

Lungi = A Garment-piece Worn By Men, As A Long, Straight Skirt-cloth.

Lurex Brand = Brand Of Metallic Fiber And Yarn Of The Lurex Co.

Lustre = The Display Of Different Intensities Of Light, Reflected Both Specularly And Diffusely From Different Parts Of A Surface Exposed To The Same Incident Light. High Lustre Is Associated With Gross Differences Of This Kind, And Empirical Measurements Of Lustr

Lycra 3D = DuPont brand for hosiery garments that contain lycra in every course. This yields exceptional fit and a smooth appearance.

Lycra Brand = Du Pont Brand Of Spandex Yarn.

Lycra Spandex = A registered trademark of the DuPont Company for their spandex fiber, which is commonly used in sheer hosiery, socks and half-hose for its stretch and recovery properties, providing better fit and shape retention, comfort, and/or support.

M = M

Machine-washable = A Term Denoting That A Textile Article Can Be Washed In A Domestic Washing Machine To Remove Dirt And Other Extraneous Substances Using An Aqueous Detergent Solution At Elevated Temperatures.

Mactex = A registered trademark of Unifi, Inc. for the process of covering an elastic or non elastic core yarn with a non elastic cover yarn by means of air pressure. This process, also known as air covering, is an alternative to the more costly conventional metho

Madapolam = A Bleached Or Dyed Plain Cotton Fabric With A Soft Finish In Any Of A Wide Range Of Qualities Used For Ladies Wear.

Madras = Cotton Fabric Hand-woven In The Madras Region Of India.

Madras Plaid = Bright Multicolored Plaids Characteristic Of Indian Madras.

Maline = A Fine Hexagonal Open Mesh Net Similar To Tulle. Used For Veils Millinery Trim.

Mandeel = A Kind Of Decoratively Worn Turban.

Mangle = A Machine Whose Purpose Is To Express Liquid From Moving Textiles By Passage Through A Nip. The Textile May Be In Rope Form Or In Open Width, And The Mangle May Consist Of Two Or More Rollers (bowls) Running In Contact.

Manila = See Abaca.

Man-Made Fiber = A class name for various genera of fibers (including continuous filaments) produced from fiber-forming substances which may be:

Man-Made Fiber = 1)polymers synthesized from chemical compounds, e.g. acrylics, nylon, polyester, polyethylene, polyurethane, and polyvinyl fibers; 2)modified or transformed natural polymers, e.g., alginic and cellulose-based fibers such as acetates and rayons; 3)mineral,

Man-made Fibre = A Fibre Manufactured By Man As Distinct From A Fibre That Occurs Naturally.

Mantua, Also Manteau = Widespread Female Dress Of The Late 17th Century. Developed From A T-shaped Garment, Which Is First Pleated Informally At The Shoulders And The Waist Pleats Are Controlled By A Belt. Instead Of Cutting The Bodice And Skirt As Separate Pieces That Were Sew

Marl = To Run Together And Draft Into One, Two Slubbings Or Rovings Of Different Colour Or Lustre.

Marl Effect Yarn (continuous-filament) = Two Single, Continuous-filament Yarns, Of Different Solid Colours Or Dyeing Properties (subsequently Dyed) Doubled Together., Also Termed Ingrain (filament Yarn)

Marl Yarn (woollen) = A Yarn Consisting Of Two Woollen-spun Single Ends Of Different Colours Twisted Together.

Marlborough Bucket Boot = Thigh-high Riding Boot With Cup-shaped Wide Top, Square Toes And Higher Heels Than The Jackboot. Made From Stiff Leather; Fourth Quarter Of 17th Century To Beginning Of 18th Century.

Marled = Yarns Made Up Of 2 Different Colors, Produced By Combining Fiber Strands (rovings) Of 2 Different Colors, Or Twisting Together 2 Yarns Of Different Colors, Or By Cross Dyeing Plied Yarns Of 2 Different Fibers.

Marls = Multicolored yarns in which each component strand is different color.

Marocain = A Woven Crepe Fabric With A Wavy Rib Effect In The Weft Resulting From The Use Of High Twist Yarns. Used In Women's Dresses, Suits.

Marquisette = Fine Lightweight Open Mesh Fabric. Used For Curtains, Mosquito Netting, Trim For Evening Wear, Or Millinery.

Mashru = A Fabric Woven Of Silk And Cotton, The Warp Of One Material And The Weft Of The Other. Literally, 'that Which Is In Accordance With The Shara, Muslim Holy Law, Which Disapproves Of An Arel Made Of Silk.

Mask = Theatrical Accessory In Ancient Times, It Was Adopted In The 16th And 17th Century By Women, To Protect The Wearer's Complexion And Preserve Her Incognito. See Also Vizor.

Mass Stress = A Term That Has Been Superseded By Specific Stress.

Mass-coloured = Descriptive Of Man-made Fibres In Which Colouring Matter (e.g., Dye Or Pigment) Has Been Incorporated Before The Filament Is Formed.

Mass-pigmented = Descriptive Of A Form Of Mass-coloration In Which A Pigment Is Used

Matchings = Wool That Has Been Sorted.

Matelasse = A Fancy Double Woven Or Compound Fabric That Has The Appearance Of Being Padded, Puckered Or Quilted . It Is Usually Woven On A Jacquard Loom. Used For Upholstery , Drapery, Vests . Lighter Weights Are Used For Dresses And Other Apparel.

Maternity = Pantyhose constructed specifically for expectant mothers that provides an expanded panty and higher waistband for comfortable wear during pregnancy.

Matt = See Dull.

Matte = Hosiery with a dull finish; minus a shine or lustre.

Matte Jersey = Tricot With A Dull Surface Made With Fine Crepe Yarn.

Mature Cotton = Cotton Whose Fibre Wall Has Thickened To An Acceptable Degree., See Also Immature Cotton, Motes

Maturity = An Important Cotton Fibre Characteristic Which Expresses The Relative Degree Of Thickening Of Wall. It Is Sometimes Defined As The Ratio Of The Cross-sectional Area Of The Fibre Wall To The Area Of A Circle Having The Same Perimeter As That Of The Fibre,

Mauritius Hemp = A Fibre From The Leaf Of The Plant Furcraea Gigantea., Also Termed Mauritius Fibre, See Also Fibre Types

Mechanical Stretch = Fabrics That Have Stretch Properties But No Not Use Spandex Or Other Stretch Yarns. The Stretch Is Usually Created In The Finishing Process.

Mechlen Lace = A Bobbin Lace Characterized By Delicate Florals Outlined With A Silky Thread.

Medulla = The Central Portion Of Some Animal Fibres Consisting Of A Series Of Cavities Formed By The Medullary Cells Which Collapse During The Growth Process. In Some Fibres E.g., Wool And Kemp, The Medulla Forms The Greatest Portion Of The Fibre And Is Surrounded

Melange/heather = A Variation In Tone Or Mottled Look . May Be Done By Mixing Fibers Or Yarn Of Different Colors Together, Printing Of The Top Before Spinning The Yarn, Or Cross Dyeing The Fabric.

Melt Blowing = A Process In Which A Polymer Is Melt-extruded Through A Die Into A High-velocity Stream Of Hot Air, Which Converts It Into Fine And Relatively Short Fibres. After Quenching By A Cold Air Stream, The Fibres Are Collected As A Sheet On A Moving Screen.

Melt Fracture = An Unstable Melt-spinning Condition In Which The Surface Of The Extrudate Becomes Rough And Irregular.

Melt Spinning (man-made Fibre Production) = Conversion Of A Molten Polymer Into Filaments By Extrusion And Subsequent Cooling Of The Extrudate.

Melton = A Heavily Felted, Tightly Woven Fabric With A Sheared Nap Giving It A Smooth Surface. It Is Almost Always Of Wool Or A Wool Blend. Used Mainly For Coats But Lighter Weights May Be Used For Other Apparel.

Melt-spun = Descriptive Of Man-made Filaments Produced By Melt-spinning.

Mercerization = (1) The Treatment Of Cellulosic Textiles In Yam Or Fabric Form With A Concentrated Solution Of Caustic Alkali Whereby The Fibres Are Swollen, The Strength And Dye Affinity Of The Materials Are Increased, And The Handle Is Modified. The Process Takes Its N

Mercerized = A Finishing Process For Cotton Using Caustic Soda Which May Be Applied At The Yarn Or Fabric Stage Resulting In Additional Luster, Improved Strength And An Improved Ability To Take Dye.

Mercerized = A cotton yarn which has been treated with a solution of caustic under conditions of caustic concentration and temperature which effect a permanent or irreversible swelling of the cellulose.

Merchant Converter = An Individual Who Or An Organization Which Locates A Supplier And Purchases Grey Fabric, Procures Its Finishing And Then Re-sells The Finished Fabric To Customers.

Merino = (1) Wool From Merino Sheep. The Merino Breed Of Sheep Originated In Spain And The Wool Is Noted For Its Fineness And Whiteness. It Was Confined To Spain Until The Late 1700's When Merino Sheep Were Exported To, And Bred In, Many Other Countries. Well Know

Merino = A fine grade of wool from sheep originating in Spain.

Mesh = A General Term For Fabric With Open Spaces Between The Yarns. It May Be Knit , Woven Or Knotted (net) In Construction.

Mesh = An open knit used primarily to achieve a hand-knit, textured look.

Mesh Knit = A hosiery fabric produced in a variety of tiny patterns. Upon close inspection it looks like lots of fine zig-zag lines. Actually, the knit is a variety of tiny patterns with loops interlocked. This kind of construction helps prevent runs, but a snag in a

Mesta = See Kenaf

Metachrome Process = A Single-bath Method Of Dyeing In Which The Fibre Is Treated In A Dyebath Containing A Suitable Chrome Dye Together With A Chromate, Whereby A Dye-chromium Complex Is Formed Within The Fibre.

Metal (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From Any Metal.

Metallic = A Highly Lustrous, Reflective Fabric That Has The Appearance Of Metal. May Be Coated Or Made From Synthetic Yarns In Metallic Colors.

Metallic Yarn = A manufactured yarn usually made of metallic coated polyester plastic and used as an accent in novelty socks.

Metallized Yarn = A Yam Which Has Free Metal As A Component., Note: There Are Several Types, The Best Known Of Which Are:, , (2) Metal Of Narrow Strip Section, Usually Lustrous. The Metal May Be Coated With Film Such As Viscose Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate), Butanoate (but

Metamerism  = A Phenomenon Whereby The Nature Of The Colour Difference Between Two Similarly Coloured Objects, Changes With Change In The Spectral Distribution (characteristics) Of The Illuminant., Note 1: Metamerism Is Most Frequently Seen When Two Coloured Objects Ma

Metier = The Bank Of Cells Or Compartments Used In The Dry-spinning Of Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate)

Microfiber = Extremely Fine Synthetic Fiber Used To Produce Soft, Lightweight Fabrics . Microfiber Is Often Defined As Fibers Of Less Than 1 Denier Per Filament But The Term Is Used Loosely In The Industry. May Be Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Rayon Or Other Fibers. Used

Microfiber = Microfiber is a generic term used to indicate yarns made of filament weighing less than one denier per filament (DPF), most commonly used in creation of nylon and polyester products.

Micromattique = Brand Of Polyester Microfiber Trademarked By Du Pont.

Micro-Mesh = A seamless mesh stocking where the loops are knotted in one direction only. Because of this the stocking can run in one direction - from the foot up towards the welt.

Micronaire Value . = A Measurement Of Cotton Fibre Quality Which Is A Reflection Of Both Fineness And Maturity. Low Values Indicate Fine And/or Immature Fibres; High Values Indicate Coarse And/or Mature Fibres. Micronaire Value Is Determined In Practice By Measuring The Air P

Mid-Calf/Crew = Hosiery with a top extending beyond ankle length but not beyond the largest part of the calf.

Milanese = A Warp Knit Process Resulting In A Fabric With A Fine Rib On The Face And A Diamond Effect On The Back. Used For Women's Lingerie And Other Apparel.

Mildew = A Superficial Growth Of Certain Species Of Fungi., Note: On Textile Materials, This May Lead To Discoloration, Tendering, And Variation In Properties.

Milled/fulled = A Method Of Compressing , Shrinking And Felting A Fabric Through The Use Of Moisture Heat And Mechanical Pressure. Usually Done On Wool And Wool Blends Such As Melton. The Process Often Obscure The Weave.

Milling (fabric Finishing) = The Process Of Consolidating Or Compacting Woven Or Knitted Fabrics That Usually, Although Not Exclusively Contain Wool., Note., The Treatment, Which Is Usually Given In A Cylinder Milling Machine Or In Milling Stocks, Produces Relative Motion Between The

Millitex = A Unit Of The Tex System

Mini Check = A Very Small Pattern Of Squares Or Rectangles . May Be Yarn Dyed, Printed, Or Woven Into The Fabric.

Minimum-care = See Drip-dry

Mirzai = A Kind Of Jacket, Often Understood As A 'quilted Coat'. It Was Generally Worn Sleeveless Over A Shirt As Outer Garment; Worn Sometimes Also Next To The Skin, Without Anything Underneath It.

Mock Leno = A Woven Fabric Made On A Dobby Loom With An Open Mesh Design That Simulates A Leno Weave By Interlacing And Grouping The Warp And Weft Yarns With Spaces Between The Groups. Warp Yarns Are Not Paired As In A True Leno Weave.

Mock Rib = A surface texture variation used in flat knit socks to simulate the look of a rib.

Mock Seams = A false seam sewn into the back of a seamless stocking of circular knit hosiery.

Modacrylic (fibre) (generic Name) = Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain Between 35% And 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethane (acrylonitrile) Groups.

Modal (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By Processes Giving A High Tenacity And A High Wet Modulus. These Fibres Must Be Able, In The Wet State, To Withstand Without Breaking A Force Of 22.o Cn Per Tex. Under This Force, The Elong

Modeste = French Word For The Outer Layer Of A Skirt. The Underlayer Was Called Secrète.

Modulus of Elasticity = The determined ratio of stress versus strain that expresses the measure of elasticity in the hosiery fabric.

Mohair = (1) Fibre From The Angora Goat (capra Hircus), (2) Descriptive Of Yams Spun From Mohair.

Mohair Braid = Any Type Of Braid Made From Mohair Yams.

Moire = A Wavy Watermark Pattern Produced By Calendering 2 Layers Of Fabric Together Or Embossing With An Engraved Roller. This Causes The Embossed Or Crushed Parts Of The Fabric To Reflect Light Differently . It Is Often Done On Corded Fabrics And Is Often Used

Moiré Fabric = A Ribbed Or Corded Fabric That Has Been Subjected To Heat And Heavy Pressure By Rollers After Weaving So As To Present A Rippled Appearance. The Effect Arises From Differences In Reflection Of The Flattened And The Unaffected Parts. This Type Of Fabric Is

Moisture Content, Percentage = The Weight Of Moisture In A Material Expressed As A Percentage Of The Total Weight

Moity Wool = A Term Used Mainly In The Uk, For Wool Containing Vegetable Matter (straw, Hay, Twigs, Etc.,) Picked Up By Sheep During Grazing.

Molar Mass (polymer) = The Average Of The Sum Of The Atomic Weights Of The Atoms Present In The Chains Of Macromolecules In A Polymer. This Average Will In General Depend Upon The Basis On Which Calculated, And This Should Be Stated, E.g., It May Be Based On A Number Average Or

Moleskin = A Strong, Heavy, Woven Fabric With A Short, Smooth Nap Produced By Brushing And Shearing The Surface. Usually Of Cotton.

Molten-metal Dyeing Process = A Method Of Continuous Dyeing In Which Material Is Impregnated With An Aqueous Liquid Dye And Chemicals And Then Passed Through A Bath Of Liquid Low-melting Alloy Usually Below 100 °c

Momme = A Japanese Measurement Of Mass Equivalent To 3.76g (approximately). It Is Used To Indicate The Weight Per Unit Area Of Silk Fabric, This Being Expressed As The Weight In Momme Of A Length Of Degummed Fabric 22.8 M In Length And 3.8 Cm In Width., Note: The

Monk's Cloth = A Heavy, Coarse, Loosely Woven Fabric Made In A Basket Weave . Used For Drapery, Upholstery And Other Home Furnishings

Monofilament Yarn = A Yam Composed Of One Filaments That Run Essentially The Whole Length Of The Yarn. Yams Of More Than One Filament Are Usually Referred To As Multifilament .

Monofilament Yarn = Yarn made of one single filament of fiber. (See Filament)

Monomer = A Small, Simple, Chemical Compound From Which A Polymer Is Formed., Note: In Most Cases A Given Polymer Can Be Made From A Variety Of Alternative Monomers. In Some Cases Two Or More Different Monomers Are Involved In The Production Of A Polymer.

Monotone = Refers To A Design In One Color.

Moquette = A Firm Double Woven Pile Fabric Used Mainly For Upholstery . Pile May Be Cut , Uncut Or Partially Cut.

Mordant = A Substance, Usually A Metallic Compound, Applied To A Substrate To Form A Complex With A Dye, Which Is Retained By The Substrate More Firmly Than The Dye Itself.

Mordant Dye = A Dye That Is Fixed With A Mordant

Moshla = A Cap, Worn Usually By Children, Covering, Apart From The Back, The Back Of The Neck Through A Long, Suspended Flap.

Moss Crepe/pebble Crepe = A Woven Fabric With A Characteristic Grainy Surface And Often A Spongy Hand. Generally Made With High Twist Yarn In A Crepe Weave. Used In Women's Suits, Dresses Etc.

Mossed = 1. A Finish Usually Applied To Synthetics Which Gives The Fabric Surface An Irregular, Mottled Appearance . 2. A Fibrous Texture On The Surface Of Felted Woolen Fabrics.

Motes (cotton) = There Are Two Broad Categories, (a) Fuzzy Motes, The Largest Of This Type Of Mote Consists Of Whole Aborted Or Immature Seed With Fuzz Fibres And Sometimes Also With Very Short Lint Fibres, The Development Of Which Has Ceased At A Very Early Stage. Small

Mottle (U.K.) = See Marl

Mouches = French Word For Small Black Patches Worn On The Face To Hide Little Blemishes. They Came Into Fashion In The Second Half Of The 17th Century And Developed Far Into The 18th Century A Language Of Its Own, Where They Were Exaggeratedly Used Even By Men And

Mousseline = General Term For Crisp, Lightweight, Semi-opaque Fabrics . May Be Made From A Variety Of Fibers.

Muff = Round Band Of Fur Or Fur Lined Cloth To Protect The Hands From The Cold.

Muga = See Wild Silk

Mughlai Pyjama = A Pyjama (q. V.) Of The 'mughal' Cut.

Mull = Soft, Thin, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Cotton Or Silk.

Multi-Feed Hosiery Machinery = A machine that is usually fed by two or more spools to knit pantyhose and stockings.

Multifilament Yarn = Yarn made of several filaments twisted or bundled together. (See Filament)

Multi-filament Yarn = A Yam Composed Of Filaments That Run Essentially The Whole Length Of The Yarn. Yams Of One Filament Are Usually Referred To As Monofilament .

Multilobal = Descriptive Of A Fibre Or Filament Whose Cross-section Resembles A Polygon But Has Concave Sides And Rounded Vertices (lobes)., Note: The Prefixes Tri- (3), Penta- (5), Hexa- (6), Octa- (8), Etc., Are Used With The Suffix -lobal To Indicate The Number Of

Munga = See Wild Silk

Mungo = The Fibrous Material Made In The Woollen Trade By Pulling Down New Or Old Hard-woven Or Milled Fabric Or Felt In Rag Form

Muslin = A Generic Name For A Light-weight, Open Fabric Of Plain Or Simple Leno Weave Traditionally With A Cover Factor Of 5- 10 In The Warp And 5-9 In The Weft. Normally, Muslins Did Not Exceed 2 Oz/yd2 (68 G.m-2)). Some Of These Fabrics Are Used In The Grey Stat

Mutton Cloth  = A Plain-knitted Fabric Of Loose Texture, Usually Cotton, Made On A Multi-feeder Circular-knitting Machine.

N = N

Nadiri = A Kind Of Jackets, Worn As An Outer Garment. The Emperor Jehangir Described It In His Memoirs As "a Coat They Wear Over A Qaba. Its Length Is From The Waist Down To Below The Thighs, And It Has No Sleeves. It Is Fastened In Fror4t With Buttons."

Nainsook = A Lightweight, Plain Weave Cotton Fabric . Used For Lingerie, Baby Clothes.

Nap = (1) A Fibrous Surface, Produced On A Fabric Or Felt, In Which Part Of The Fibre Is Raised From The Basic Structure., Note: Originally Nap And Pile Were Used Synonymously, But The Present Trend Of Using The Two Terms For Different Concepts Is To Be Encoura

Napped = See Brushed/ Napped.

Nastaliq = One Of The Many Scripts In Which Persian Characters Can Be Written.

Natio = A Kind Of Cap Popular In Gujarat And Rajasthan. It Consists Generally Of A Woven Piece And Headband, With A Long Flap, Which Hangs At The Back To Cover The Neck.

Natural & Color = Refers To Yarn Dye Fabrics Which Combine Natural Yarns And Colored Yarns In The Design.

Natural And Overprint = Refers To Printing Done On A Natural Ground.

Natural Fibers = Cotton, wool, or silk hosiery fibers.

Natural Flax = Scutched Flax Produced From Deseeded Straw Without Any Intermediate Treatment Such As Retting.

Nautical = Refers To Motifs With A Nautical Or Maritime Theme.

Navel = In Rotor Spinning A Device, Aligned On The Axis Of The Rotor, Through Which The Yarn Is Withdrawn.

Neats = Solid color socks with tiny evenly-spaced patterns such as dots or fleur-de-lis.

Neck = In The Process Of Drawing Synthetic Filaments Or Films, The Relatively Short Length Over Which A Reduction In Cross-sectional Area Occurs As A Result Of Stretching Beyond A Critical Value., Note: Commercial Drawing Processes For Man-made Fibres And Films

Neckcloth = Term Used From The 17th Century Until Ca. 1840 To Describe Either A Cravat, Stock, Kerchief Or Bandanna Worn Around The Neck.

Necking (synthetic fibres) = The Sudden Reduction In Diameter That May Occur When An Undrawn Filament Is Stretched.

Needle Count = The total number of needles used in knitting a sock or sheer hosiery product. The higher the needle count the closer the stitches and the finer the fabric.

Needled = A Type Of Nonwoven In Which The Fibers Are Entangled And Mechanically Bonded By Needle Punching.

Needlepoint Lace = A Method Of Making Lace By Buttonhole Stitches Using An Embroidery Needle And Thread On A Heavy Paper Base.

Negligée Cap = 18th Century Term For A Cap Worn Within The House And Also Informally.

Nep = A Small Knot Of Entangled Fibres. (in The Case Of Cotton It Usually Comprises Dead Or Immature Cotton Hairs.)

Neppy Yarn. = A Yarn In Which The Incidence Of Nep Occurs At A Relatively High Level And So Constitutes A Fault., Note: Neppy Yarns Are Sometimes Used Purposely As Decoration.

Nett Silk = Raw-silk Filaments Or Strands That Have Been Processed Into Yams By Twisting And Folding Or Both. Also Descriptive Of Fabrics Produced From Nett Silk.

Neutral-dyeing Acid Dye = An Acid Dye That From A Neutral Bath Has Useful Substantivity For Wool, Silk Or Polyamide.

New Zealand Flax = Phormium Tenax - An Indigenous New Zealand Plant And The Fibre Obtained From Its Leaves Is Sometimes Called New Zealand Flax Or Hemp, Although Now Grown In Other Countries.

Nightcap = Worn In Bed Or In The 16th To 18th Centuries Informally Within The House. Those Worn By Men Were Often Exquisitely Embroidered.

Nimainimatana = A Kind Of Tunic, A Modified Version Of The Kurta (q.v.), Generally Made Of Fine Material.

Ninon = A Lightweight, Smooth, Plain Weave, Open Mesh Fabric. It Is Usually Of Synthetic Fiber. Used For Evening Wear, Curtains, Lingerie.

Nip = The Line Or Area Of Contact Or Proximity Between Two Contiguous Surfaces That Move So As To Compress And/or Control The Velocity Of Textile Material Passed Between Them.

Nip Roller = One Of A Pair Of Rollers Intended To Run With Their Cylindrical Surfaces In Contact Or Separated Yarn Or Other Textile Material., Note: The Two Rollers Are Intended To Have The Same Surface Speed And One Normally Drives Other By Frictional Contact.

No Wale Corduroy = A Corduroy With A Short All Over Cut Pile And Thus No Visible Wale.

Noil (wool) = The Shorter Fibres Separated From The Longer Fibres In Combing.

Noil; Bourette (silk) = The Fibres Extracted During Silk Dressing Or That Are Too Short For Producing Spun Silk. These Fibres Usually Spun On The Condenser System To Produce What Are Known As Silk Noil Yarns.

Non-ionic Dye = A Dye That Does Not Dissociate Electrolytically In Aqueous Solution.

Non-Reciprocated = Socks or sheer hosiery knitted with no heel or toe pocket, e.g. tube socks.

Non-Run = Stockings or pantyhose with a special interlocking stitch that prevents runs (but not holes). Also called run-proof and run-less. Special processes under which the hosiery are manufactured are all designed to give the stocking or pantyhose extra life.

Non-Stretch = Garment manufactured without stretch yarns. Usually made of natural, ridged non-stretch fibers. Product has no compression or stretch ability which generally makes for a less satisfactory fit but is desirable for varying reasons such as fashion or medical

Nonwoven Fabric = In General, A Textile Structure Made Directly From Fibre Rather Than Yarn. Fabrics Are Normally Made From Extruded Continuous Filaments Or From Fibre Webs Or Batts Strengthened By Bonding Using Various Techniques: These Include Adhesive Bonding, Mechanica

Nonwoven Fabric Thermally-bonded = Textile Fabric Composed Of A Web Or Batt Of Fibres Containing Heat-sensitive Material, Bonded By The Application Of Heat, With Or Without Pressure. The Heat-sensitive Materials May Be In The Form Of Fibres, Bicomponent Fibres Or Powders.

Nottingham Lace = A Wide Machine Made Lace. Originally Made In Nottingham England.

Novelties = Women's non-basic styles characterized by unusual patterning and/or coloration.

Novelty = A General Term That Refers To A Fabric That Is Not Basic Or Common, I.e. One That Has Unusual Or Special Effects In The Yarn, Weave, Coloring Or Finishing.

Novelty Yarns = Yarns showing unusual and fancy effects.

Nude Heel = Pantyhose or stocking without reinforcement in the heel area. The exact same knitting is used as in the boot or leg of the stocking or pantyhose. Enjoys a popular appeal thanks to the open-heeled or sling-back shoe.

Nun's Veiling = A Plain Weave, Lightweight, Sheer Fabric Of High Quality Usually Found In Black Or White. May Be Made Of Wool Silk Cotton Or Synthetics. Named For It's Original Use By Religious Orders .

Nylon = Man-made fiber introduced in 1938. It is the first and the oldest of the true synthetics. Chemically, nylon is a man-made polyamide fiber derived from coal, air, and water. This fiber is famous for its strength, abrasion resistance, dimensional stability,

Nylon (synthetic Fibre) (generic Name) = See Polyamide (synthetic Fibre)

Nytril (fibre) (US) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres Containing At Least 85% Of A Long-chain Polymer Of 1,1-dichloroethene (vinylidene Dinitrile) Where The Vinylidene Dinitrile Content Is No Less Than Every Other Unit In The Polymer Chain.

O = O

Oatmeal Cloth = A Heavy, Soft Fabric With A Specked Pebbly Surface. Used For Drapery, Upholstery.

Odhani = A Veil-cloth For A Woman, Often Worn Tucked Into The Side Of The Waist And Drawn Upward Over The Back And The Head, The Free End Being Draped Over The Shoulder. Literally, 'a Wrap'.

Odor Preventive = Hosiery treated to kill bacteria which grow under warm, moist conditions such as in shoes, socks, or on the feet. This bacteria generally is odorless, and the compounds the hosiery is treated with inhibits bacteria growth.

Oil Coated = The Application Of Oil To A Fabric (usually Linseed Oil) To Seal It And Made It Waterproof.

Oil Repellent = A Treatment That Allows A Fabric To Resist Staining By Oily Substances.

Oilcloth = A General Term For Any Oil Coated Fabric.

Oiled Silk; Oiled Viscose = Silk And Viscose Fabrics, Respectively, Made Impervious To Water By Treatment With A Drying Oil.

Oiled Wool = Unscoured Or Undyed Knitting Wool Or Wool Dyed Before Spinning And Containing Added Oil Not Subsequently Removed.

Oil-repellent = Descriptive Of Textile Material On Which Oil Globules Do Not Spread.

Olefin = Man-made fibers derived from polypropylene or polyethylene.

Olefin (fibre) (us.) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 85% By Weight Of Ethene (ethylene), Propane (propylene), Or Other Olefin Units. The Term Includes The Iso Generic Nam

Oligomer = A Simple Polymer Containing A Small Number Of Repeating Units., Note: The Oligomer Most Frequently Encountered In The Textile Industry Is The Cyclic Trimer Of Poly(ethylene Benzene-1,4-dicarboxylate) (poly(ethylene Terephthalate)), The Polymer Used For Po

Ombré = A French Term Meaning Shaded. It Is Used In Relation To Textiles (a) As An Adjective To Describe Fabrics With A Dyed, Printed, Or Woven Design In Which The Colour Is Graduated From Light To Dark And Often Into Stripes Of Varying Shades: And (b) As A Noun,

On-call Cotton = Raw Cotton Purchased Under A Procedure Whereby The Price (points On Or Off Futures) Is Between Buyer And Seller, But The Actual Futures Price Is Left To Be Fixed Within A Stipulated Period. Buyer Has The Right To 'call' (i.e., Demand Fixation Of The Futur

One Piece Pantyhose = Pantyhose that is knit in a continuous operation beginning at one toe and ending at the other, eliminating the seams of a conventional style.

One Size = The term applied to pantyhose or stockings that fit most sizes from very small to large.

Onium Dye = A Cationic Dye That Is Solubilized By A Labile Ammonium, Sulphonium, Phosphonium, Or Oxonium Substituent Which Splits Off During Fixation To Leave An Insoluble Colorant In The Fibre.

Opacity = Degree to which light passes through, not transparent. When used to describe the panty of pantyhose-in-one garments, it creates an important part of the wearer's feeling of security when she opts to wear hosiery without undergarments.

Opaque = Stockings or pantyhose made of yarn which give them heavier appearance, usually 40 denier or greater in weight.

Open Boil = Scouring Of Cellulosic Textiles With Alkaline Liquors In Open-topped Vessels At Or Near The Boiling. Note: Scours At Temperatures Lower Than The Boil Are Usually Referred To As 'steeps'.

Open End = A High Speed Yarn Spinning Process That Creates Yarn By Transferring Twist From Previously Formed Yarn To Fiber Or Sliver Continuously Fed Into The Spinning Machine. The Twisting May Be Done By Mechanical Methods, Rotors Or Air Jets.

Open-end Spinning; Break Spinning = A Spinning System In Which Sliver Feedstock Is Highly Drafted, Ideally To Individual Fibre State, And Thus Creates An Open End Or Break In The Fibre Flow. The Fibres Are Subsequently Assembled On The End Of A Rotating Yarn And Twisted In. Various Techniqu

Open-End Spun Yarn = Yarn-making process in which fibers are twisted and wrapped around each other by the use of a rapidly rotating rotor. The process is much faster than ring-spinning.

Opening = The Action Of Separating Closely Packed Fibres From Each Other At An Early Stage In The Processing Of Raw Material Into Yam.

Open-width Processing = The Treatment Of Fabric At Its Full Width In The Unfolded State In Contrast To Rope-form Processing. The Fabric May Be Carried On Rollers Through The Processing Media Or Be Held On A Roller, As In Dyeing.

Optical Brightener = A Substance That Is Added To An Uncoloured Or A Coloured Textile Material To Increase The Apparent Reflectance In The Visible Region By Conversion Of Ultra-violet Radiation Into Visible Light And So To Increase The Apparent Brightness Or Whiteness. Also T

Organdy = A Thin, Very Stiff, Lightweight, Plain Weave Fabric Usually Of Cotton Or Cotton Blends. It Is Often Treated To Make The Crisp Finish Permanent. Used For Apparel Trim Such As Collars And Cuffs, Evening Wear, Dresses, Curtains.

Organza = A Thin, Plain Weave, Sheer Fabric Of Silk Or Synthetic Filament Yarn Such As Polyester Or Nylon . Used For Evening Or Party Wear, Bridal Wear, Curtains, Millinery.

Orientation = (1) Parallelism Of Fibres, Usually As A Result Of A Combing Or Attenuating Action On Fibre Assemblies Causing The Fibres To Lie Substantially Parallel To The Axis Of The Web Or Strand. (2) A Predominant Direction Of Linear Molecules In The Fine Structure

Orlon Acrylic = A registered trademark of the DuPont Company for their acrylic fiber. Used in socks for its combination of softness, durability, rich color clarity, comfort and easy care. Currently no longer available.

Osnaburg = A Coarse, Strong, Plain Weave, Medium To Heavy Weight Fabric, Usually Of Cotton . Used For Industrial Purposes, Drapery And Upholstery.

Ottoman = A Medium To Heavy Weight Fabric With Wide Horizontal Ribs . May Be Knit Or Woven. Used For Women's Apparel, Upholstery, Drapery.

Outline Embroidered = A Fabric With A Design Motif Traced (outlined) With Embroidery Stitches.

Outline Quilted = A Quilted Fabric In Which The Quilting Stitches Follow The Motif Of A Print Design.

Outpost = Generic term denoting placement of a portion of hosiery merchandise at a location removed from the hosiery department itself. Outposts are often utilized for specific categories of merchandise - dancewear or casual knee-highs. When an outpost is placed in

Outsize = Stockings or pantyhose proportioned to accommodate the heavier woman or the taller than average figure. (See Queen-Size)

Oven-dry Weight = The Constant Weight Of Textile Material Obtained By Drying At A Temperature Of 105 ± 3°c.

Overdyed = Dyeing Of A Print Or Yarn Dyed Fabric In A Shade Which Does Not Totally Cover The Original Design.

Overprinted = Usually Refers To Printing Over A Previously Dyed Fabric, However Yarn Dyes, Cross Dyes And Previously Printed Fabrics Are Also Sometimes Overprinted.

Over-The-Calf = Men's and boy's socks that extend above the fattest part of the calf.

Oxford = A Fabric With A Single Filling Yarn Woven Over And Under 2 Smaller Warp Yarns. Commonly Found In Cotton Shirtings,  But Oxfords Are Produced In A Wide Variety Of Fibers And Weights For Many Uses, Mainly In Apparel.

P = P

Pack (man-made Fibre Spinning) = A Replaceable Assembly, Usually Comprising Filter Media, Spreader Plates, And One Or More Spinnerets

Pack Dyeing = A Method Of Dyeing In Which The Liquor Is Circulated Through The Goods. Note: The Use Of The Term 'pressure Dyeing In This Connection Is Deprecated.

Pad = Abbreviated Form Of Padding Mangle Or Padding. Note:. It Is Often Used In Conjunction With Other Process Terms To Describe Sequential Operations In Dyeing, Or Finishing, E.g., Pad-bake, Pad-batch, Pad-dry, And Pad-steam. It Is Occasionally Used Also To De

Padding = Impregnation Of A Substrate With A Liquor Or A Paste Followed By Squeezing, Usually By Passage Through A Nip, To Leave A Specific Quantity Of Liquor Or Paste On The Substrate.

Padding Mangle = A Form Of Mangle For The Impregnation Of Textiles In Open Width In Which The Textile Is Passed Through One Or More Nips. The Textile May Be Saturated Before Passing Through The Nip, Or Impregnating Liquid May Be Carried As A Film On The Surface Of One Of

Pagri = Turban.

Pairhaniphiran = Loose Cloak-like Shirt Reaching Down To The Feet. Very Popular As An Article Of Wear In Kashmir Where It Was Made Mostly Of Woolen Cloth.

Pairing = The finishing operation in which individual socks are inspected and made into pairs prior to folding and packaging.

Paisley = A Design Originating In Asia, Traditionally In A Teardrop Shape With A Curving Point Containing And Surrounded By Many Small Abstract And Geometric Designs.

Palatine = Little Fur Stole Which Takes Its Name From The Princess Palatine Who, During The Hard Winter Of 1676, Wore A Fur As A Cravat.

Pan (fibre) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) Groups.

Panama = A Plain Weave Fabric Traditionally Of Cotton Or Wool. Used For Summer Suitings And Dresses.

Paniers = Underskirts Stretched Over Metal Hoops Which Appeared Around 1718-20 In France And Remained In Fashion Under Various Forms Until The French Revolution.

Panne = A Fabric Which Has Had The Surface Flattened By Heavy Roller Pressure Giving It Luster . Often Done On Pile Fabrics, Knits, Or Satins.

Panne Velvet = A Lightweight Velvet That Has Had The Pile Flattened In One Direction.

Pantholops Hogsoni = See Shahtoosh

Pantofles = Female Heelless Slippers Or Mules Worn During The 17th Century, But Getting Even More Fashionable Toward The End Of The Period. They Were Made From Brocade And Embroidered Leather.

Panty/Pantyhose = A pantyhose garment that includes a true knitted-in panty, constructed of heavier weight nylon or cotton. Eliminates "panty lines" that can show through clingy knits or tight pants. (See All-In-One Pantyhose)

Pantyhose = A garment that combines both panty and stockings into a one piece waist-high garment that extends above the crotch, but not above the waist, to the toes.

Paper Yarn = A Yarn Consisting Of One Or More Continuous Lengths Of Paper Strip, Or A Yam Incorporating One Or More Continuous Lengths Of Paper Strip As A Major Component. Note1.. Paper In Normal Widths Is Wound Into Rolls Of Substantial Length, And Cut Or 'slit' Into

Paper-like = Refers To Fabric With A Crisp, Noisy Hand That Suggests Paper.

Parachute Cloth = Lightweight, Strong, Compact Fabric Used For Outerwear, Luggage And Parachutes.

Parallel Line Gratings. = Transparent Plates Containing Uniformly Spaced Parallel Lines In The Cross-wise Direction. It Is Possible To Determine The Number Of Threads Per Unit Length (cm Or Inch) In A Fabric By Selecting An Appropriate Grating And Placing It Parallel To A Set Of T

Parchmentizing = A Finishing Treatment, Comprising A Short Contact With, E.g., Sulphuric Acid Of High Concentration, Whose Aim Is To Produce A Variety Of Effects, Depending On The Type Of Fabric And The Conditions Used Ranging From A Linen-like Handle To A Transparent Org

Partially Oriented Yarn - Poy = A Continuous-filament Yam Made By Extruding A Synthetic Polymer So That A Substantial Degree Of Molecular Orientation Is Present In The Resulting Filaments, But Further Molecular Orientation Is Possible. Note.1, The Resulting Yarn Will Usually Require A P

Passacaille = Fashionable Dance (passacaglia), Whose Name Was Given To The Cord Attaching The Muff To The Waist During Louis Xiv's Reign.

Passement = Originally This Was The Name For All Kinds Of Lace In The 16th And 17th Centuries. No Matter If It Was Made From Linen Threads, Silk Or Metal. Gradually, The Name Dentelle Was Given To Lighter Work Made With Shuttles Or Needle, While Passement Developed I

Patchwork = Various Colors Or Designs Combined Together In One Design . May Be Print Or Yarn Dye.

Patka = A Girdle Or Kamarband, Worn Usually Over Pyjama (q.v.), And Often Very Sumptuous And Decorative.

Patterned = Socks or sheers having a design knitted into the garment or impressed on the side, front or over-all surface. (See Textures)

Peach Skin = A Soft, Sueded Finish Resulting From Sanding Or Chemical Treatment Of The Fabric.

Peached = A Soft Sueded Hand That Suggests The Downy Skin Of A Peach.

Pearlized Coating = A Fabric Coating With A Surface Luster Suggestive Of A Pearl . Used A as Face For Outerwear Fabrics.

Pearls = Referring To Fabric Embellished With Pearls.

Peau De Soie = A French Term, Meaning Literally 'skin Of Silk' Applied Originally To A Fine Silk Fabric In A Modified Weave That Had A Ribbed Or Grained Appearance And Was Sometimes Reversible. The Term Nowadays Includes Fabrics Made From Man-made Fibre Yams. It Is Reco

Pebble Crepe = See Moss Crepe/ Pebble Crepe.

Pebbly = Refers To A Fabric Surface With A Grainy, Crepey Texture.

Peds = A registered trademark of Americal Corporation for a broad range of hosiery products including socks, pantyhose, tights, knee-highs, slippers, foot covers and shoe liners of varying weight and with multiple uses.

Percale = A Smooth, Closely Woven, Plain Weave Fabric Often Of Cotton. Often Used As A Print Cloth For Apparel And Sheets.

Percentage Cover = Cover Factor As A Percentage Of The Maximum Possible For A Particular Weave Structure

Percentage Moisture Content = The Weight Of Moisture In A Material Expressed As A Percentage Of The Total Weight

Perch = (1)a Manually Or Mechanically Operated Contrivance Consisting Of A System Of Rollers Over Which Fabric Is Drawn At Open Width For The Purpose Of Inspection. (2) To Inspect Fabric In A Vertical (hanging) Position Or At An Angle Inclined Upwards Away From T

Perforated/punched = Holes Or Small Motifs Are Punched Out Of The Fabric With A Metal Roller Forming A Design Or Pattern.

Permanent Press = A Deprecated Alternative To Durable Press.

Permanent Set = The Process Of Conferring Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usually By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.

Peshwaz = Long Gown-like Dress, Consisting Essentially Of A Choli (q.v.) Worn Rather High To Which A Front-opening Skirt Is Attached. The Garment Was Worn At An Early Point By Men, Too, But Is Essentially To Be Regarded As Women's Apparel. Worn With Much Refinement

Petia = An Apron-like Piece Of Cloth Attached To The Lower End Of A Choli (q.v.) Or Kanjari (q.v.) And Hanging Down So As To Partially Cover The Stomach.

Petite Oie = Set Of Ribbons Which, In The Mid 17th Century, Was Used To Trim Men's Suits And Which Became Very Large When Petticoat Breeches Were Worn.

Petite Point = A Small, Slanting, Needlepoint Stitch That Form Even Lines Of A Solid Background . Used For Pillows, Slipcovers.

Petticoat Breeches, Also Rhinegraves = Fashionable In Mid 17th Century To Around 1675, Either A Skirt-like Construction Or A Divided Skirt With Full, Wide Breeches And Attached Canons Underneath. The Legs Were Loose And Flowing.

Pfleidering = The Process Of Shedding Pressed Alkali-cellulose In A Machine Named A Pfleiderer, After Its Inventor.

Phormium Tenax = See New Zealand Flax Or Hemp, Although Now Grown In Other Countries.

Photodegradation = Degradation Caused By The Absorption Of Light Or Other Radiation And By Consequent Chemical Reactions. Ultra-violet Radiation Is An Especially Potent Cause.

Phulkari = Literally, "flowered Work". Term Used For A Type Of Embroidery Practiced By Women In The Punjab For Head-veils And Other Garment-pieces. The Embroidery Is Worked In Floss-silk Upon Coarse Cotton Cloth, In Darning Stitch Over Counted Threads, Being Worked

Pick = To Pass The Weft Through The Warp Shed In Weaving.

Picklock Wool = A Term Used In Wool-sorting, Mainly In The UK., For Second-best Sorts From Fleeces.

Picotage = A Speckled Effect On The Surface Of A Pile Fabric Owing To Differential Light Reflection From Tips Of Tufts.

Piece (flax) = The Small Handful That Is The Unit Of Scutched Flax

Piece Dyeing = Dyeing In Fabric Form.

Piece Glass = See Counting Glass

Piece; = A Length Of Fabric Of Customarily Accepted Unit Length. Note: A Frequent Contract Practice Is For The Purchaser To Specify A Minimum Piece Length Below Which No Pieces Will Be Accepted. Alternatively, A 'cut-through' Allowance Is Specified, The Seller Has

Piece-goods = Fabric Sold By Or From The Piece.

Pieces = Small Bunches Of Wool Staple Taken During Sorting From Various Fleeces And Sold In Lots.

Pierced Cocoons = Cocoons From Which The Moths Have Been Allowed To Emerge So That They May Reproduce.

Pigment = A Substance In Particulate Form That Is Substantially Insoluble In A Medium, But Which Is Mechanically Dispersed In This Medium To Modify Its Colour And/or Light-scattering Properties

Pigment Dyed = An Insoluble Colorant Is Applied To The Fabric As A Paste Or Emulsion, Heat Cured And Bound To The Fabric With Resins Or Binders. The Curing Process Can Be Controlled So The Color Will Fade After Washing, Giving The Garments A Used Worn Look.

Pigment Padding = The Application Of An Aqueous Dispersion Of A Pigment To A Fabric By Padding., Note: Lt Is Commonly Used To Describe The First Stage Of A Process For The Application Of Vat Dyes To Fabrics, Followed By Fixation Of The Vat Dye Through Its Leuco Form. It Is

Pigment Printed = An Insoluble Colorant Is Printed On The Fabric As A Paste Or Emulsion, Heat Cured And Bound To The Fabric With Resins Or Binders. Allows For The Printing Of Fabrics With Fiber Blends That Would Be Otherwise Difficult Or Expensive To Print.

Pigtail = A Yarn-guide In The Form Of A Short Open-ended Helix.

Pile = A Surface Effect On A Fabric Formed By Tufts Or Loops Of Yarn That Stand Up From The Body Of The Fabric., Note: Originally Nap And Pile Were Used Synonymously, But The Present Trend Of Using The Two Terms For Different Concepts Is To Be Encouraged As Prov

Pill; Pilling = Small Accumulations Of Fibres On The Surface Of A Fabric. Pills Can Develop During Wear, And Are Held To The Fabric By An Entanglement With The Surface Fibres Of The Material

Pilling = When a fiber exceeds its abrasion level and the fibers begin to break and form a small ball of fiber on the fabric surface.

Pima Cotton = A Fine Long Staple Cotton, Originally Derived By Crossing American And Egyptian Species. Named For Pima County Arizona. Used In Fine Shirtings And Dress Fabrics.

Pin Drafting = Any System Of Drafting, (e.g. Gilling), In Which The Direction Of The Fibres Relative To One Another In A Sliver Is Controlled By Pins.

Pincord/pinwale = Fabric With A Very Narrow Wale Or Rib. Used In Describing Piques, Corduroys Or Other Ribbed Fabrics. Also Called Baby Cord.

Pineapple Fibre = A Fibre From The Leaf Of The Plant Acanas Comosus, Capable Of Being Processed Into Fine Fabrics.

Pinpoint Oxford = An Oxford Weave Fabric Using Fine Yarns Resulting In A Small Oxford Texture. Usually Cotton . Used For Fine Shirtings.

Pinstripe = A Design Using Fine Line Vertical Stripes, Usually Light Color Stripes On A Dark Ground.

Pique = A Fabric Characterized By A Prominent, All-over Geometric Texture. It Is Most Commonly Woven On A Dobby Loom But It Is Also Produced As A Double Knit. The Most Common Textures Are Cords ( Either Vertical Or Horizontal) , Birdseye, Waffle, Honeycomb And Bu

Pirn; = (1) A Support, Slightly Tapered, With Or Without A Conical Base, On Which Yarn Is Spun Or Wound For Use As A Weft.(2) The Weft Package Wound On The Support Defined In (1). (3) A Relatively Long But Narrow Package Of Yarn Taken Up On A Cylindrical Former D

Plaid = A Pattern Of Stripes And Bars That Cross Each Other At Right Angles.

Plain Knit = The most common knit in hosiery, similar to a jersey or hand-knit stitch. Plain knit gives a smooth, sheer surface. (See Mesh)

Plain Stitch = A Knitting Stitch That Shows A Series Of Lengthwise Ribs On The Face( From The Neck Of The Yarn Loops), And Cross Wise Loops On The Back ( From The Head Of The Yarn Loops).

Plain Weave = The Simplest Form Of Weaving In Which A Pick ( Filling Yarn) Passes Over The First End ( Warp Yarn), Under The Second And On Continuously, Over One End And Under The Next. The Next Pick Alternates , Passing Under The First End, Over The Second , And On Co

Plaiting = A sock knitting method in which two different yarns are combined by a process similar to braiding. In plaiting, one yarn becomes the outside of the sock and the other one the inside. Nylon or polyester reinforcement is often incorporated into socks by thi

Planchette = French Word For Boned And Stiffened Corset.

Plied = Refers To A Yarn Consisting Of 2 Or More Single Yarns Twisted Together.

Plied Yarn = When strands of single yarns are combined, twisted together, or air entangled, resultant yarn is referred to as "plied".

Plisse = A Fabric With A Puckered Or Pleated Effect Resulting From Printing The Fabric With Caustic Soda . The Printed Part Of The Fabric Shrinks, Causing The Unprinted Part To Pucker.

Plumpers = Small Balls Of Wax That Were Placed In The Cheeks By Some Women To Give The Face A Fashionable Rounded Shape From 1660-1700.

Plush = 1. A Fabric With A Thick Cut Pile, Used In Apparel, Draperies, Upholstery, Stuffed Toys . May Be Woven Or Knit. 2. Brushed Or Sheared Fabrics Are Also Sometimes Referred To As Plush.

Plush Hand = Refers To A Thick, Resistant, Soft Luxurious Hand.

Pockets = Even In The 17th Century Were The Pockets Still A Small Independent Bag Attached To The Gusset. It Is Only With The Appearance Of The Justaucorps That Pockets Are To Be Found, Usually Vertical At First, Then Mostly Horizontal (from The 1680s Onwards). Wom

Point De Neige = Soft And Fine Lace With A Small Design ("snow Flake"), Fashionable At The End Of The 17th Century.

Point D'esprit = A Machine Made Net With Small All-over Dots.

Pointelle = A Knit Fabric With A Pattern Of Holes Or Openings Made By Using Transfer Stitches.

Pointelle = An open, lacy-look knit similar to crochet.

Polished Cotton = A Cotton Fabric With A Luster. The Luster May Be Due To The Weave (often Satin), Or From Application Of A Calendered Finish, Or Both. The Degree Of Luster Can Be Moderate Or Bright.

Polishing = The Treatment Of Tanned Skins, Or Of Fabrics, Particularly Pile Fabrics, To Increase Luster By Mechanical Means, Without Compressing The Material.

Polishing (yarn) = Operation(s) For Conferring On Yams A Relatively High Degree Of Smoothness Of Surface.

Poly(vinyl Alcohol) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Of Polyethenol (poly Vinyl Alcohol) Of Differing Levels Of Acetalization. The Iso Generic Name Is Vinyl.

Polyacrylonitrile Fibre; Pan Fibre = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of Recurring Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile) Groups.

Polyamide = A Synthetic Linear Polymer In Which The Linkage Of The Simple Chemical Compound Or Compounds Used In Its Production Takes Place Through The Formation Of Amide Groups, E.g.,

Polyamide (synthetic Fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain Recurring Amide Groups, At Least 85% Of Which Are Attached To Aliphatic Or Cyclo-aliphatic Groups. , Note.. This Limited Definition Was Introduced By Iso In 197

Polyamide, Natural (fibre) = Natural Fibres Consisting Of Polymers Containing The Repeating Group -co-nh-. Examples Are Silk, Wool, And Other Animal Hairs.

Polycarbamide (generic Name); Polyurea (fibre) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain Recurring Aliphatic Groups Joined By Ureylene Groups Which Together Comprise At Least 85% (by Mass) Of The Chain.

Polyester = A Polymer Whose Repeating Units Contain Ester Linkages In The Main Chains Of The Macromolecules. , Note: Cross-linkable Polyesters Are Resin-forming And Linear Polyesters Are Fibre-forming

Polyester = Polyester is a man-made fiber which has abrasion-resistance, excellent washability, and is fast-drying. It is readily heat-settable and dyeable. Polyester is used in men's and boy's dress socks, in decorative applications such as cross-dyeing and jacquard

Polyester (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain At Least 85% (by Mass) Of An Ester Of A Diol And Benzene-1,4-dicarboxylic Acid (terephthalic Acid)., Note 1: This Term Is More Restrictive Than The Chemical Def

Polyethylene (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Of Unsubstituted Aliphatic Saturated Hydrocarbon.

Polymer = A Large Molecule Built Up By The Repetition Of Small, Simple, Chemical Units.

Polymer, Atactic = See Atactic Polymer

Polymerization = The Process Used To Link Small, Simple, Chemical Molecules Into A Polymer

Polymerization, Batch = A Process For Making Polymer In Batches.

Polymerization, Continuous = A Process For Making Polymer In Which The Reactants Are Fed Continuously To, And The Product Is Withdrawn Continuously From, A Vessel Or Series Of Vessels

Polynosic (fibre) = A Term Used To Describe Regenerated Cellulose Fibres Characterized By A High Initial Wet Modulus Of Elasticity And A Relatively Low Degree Of Swelling In Sodium Hydroxide Solution. The Is0 Generic Name Is Modal.

Polyolefin (fibre) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 85% By Weight Of Ethene (ethylene), Propene (propylene), Or Other Olefin Units. The Term Includes The Iso Generic Nam

Polypropylene = A petrochemical-based man-made fiber usually used in socks in combination with other fibers.

Polypropylene (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having An Aliphatic Saturated Hydrocarbon Chain In Which Alternate Carbon Atoms Carry A Methyl Group, Generally In An Isotactic Disposition And Without Further Substitution.

Polytetrafluoroethylene (fibre) = A Fibre Made From A Synthetic Linear Polymer In Which The Chief Repeating Unit Is -

Polyurea (fibre); Polycarbamide (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain Recurring Aliphatic Groups Joined By Ureylene Groups Which Together Comprise At Least 85% (by Mass) Of The Chain.

Polyurethane (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Having In The Chain Recurring Aliphatic Groups Joined By Urethane Groups Which Together Comprise At Least 85% (by Mass) Of The Chain.

Pom = A women's or girl's footsock, or footie, with a pom-pom sewn on at the back.

Pomander = From The French Word "pomme" For Apple, Still In Use In The First Half Of The 17th Century By Ladies. Small Balls Of Perfume Placed In Decorated, Perforated Boxes And Worn Around The Waist On Chains.

Pongee = Originally And Traditionally A Light-weight Fabric Hand-woven In China Of Wild Silk In Plain Weave. The Term Is Now Also Applied To Fabrics Having A Similar Weight And Appearance, Power-woven, And Made With Yams Other Than Silk. If Of Cotton, These Fabric

Ponte Di Roma = Weft Knitted, Interlock Based, Double Jersey Structure . Means "roman Bridge" Which Is Suggested By The Arrangement Of Loops . The Fabric Looks The Same On Both Sides.

Poodle Cloth = A Fabric With A Curly Or Loop Pile Resembling The Coat Of A Poodle Dog.

Poor Boy = An Inexpensive Rib Knit Usually 2x3 Or 3x1 In A Fine To Medium Yarn.

Popcorn = A Fabric Utilizing Yarn With Thick Spots Suggesting Popcorn. Usually A Knit But May Be Woven.

Popcorn Stitch = A pattern composed of a series of geometrically arranged round or lozenge-shaped raised areas; so-named because of their resemblance to popcorn.

Poplin = A Plain Weave Fabric With A Fine, Crosswise Rib, The Result Of Using Finer Warp Yarns And Heavier Weft Yarns And A Higher Thread Count In The Warp Than The Weft . Usually Medium Weight. Made In A Variety Of Fibers But Common In Cotton And Cotton Blends .

Potting = A Finishing Process Applied Mainly To Woollen Fabrics. The Dyed Fabric (which May Have Crabbed) Is Batched On A Roller And Is Then Immersed In Water. The Temperature Of The Liquor An Duration Of Treatment Depend On The Effect Desired. The Fabric Is Cooled

Pouch Heel = A simulated or "false heel" in what is fundamentally a shaped tube sock. The heel effect is created in boarding. Unlike the tube, a pouch heel sock usually has a fishmouth toe.

Powder Bonding = A Method Of Making Thermally-bonded Nonwoven Fabric In Which The Fibre Web Or Batt Is Bonded By The Use Of Heat-sensitive Powder Dispersed Within It.

Poy = See Partially Oriented Yarn

POY (partially oriented yarns) = Nylon or polyester texturing feed yarns supplied by fiber producers to texturers for processing (texturing). Yarn is then sold to sheer hosiery, sock and half-hose knitters.

Pre-Boarding = After a stocking or pantyhose is knit, each stitch and loop is permanently set in place by an operation called "pre-boarding" or heat setting in a steam chamber. The stocking is placed on a metal leg form called a "board" and then given the steam treatmen

Prepared For Printing /dyeing = Fabric Which Has Been Made Ready For Dyeing Or Printing By Performing All Preliminary Processes On The Greige Such As Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, And Bleaching.

Preshrunk = A Term Applied To A Textile Material That Has Been Shrunk To Predetermined Dimensions In Order To Minimize Shrinkage In Use. Nowadays Fabrics Are Preshrunk By Compressive Shrinkage.

Press Mark = Undesirable Shinning Lines On The Right Side Of The Garment Due To Incorrect Ironing.

Press Ratio (alkali-cellulose) = The Ratio Of The Weight Of Alkali-cellulose, After Excess Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda) Solution Has Been Pressed Out, To The Original Weight Of Pulp.

Pressing = The Application Of Pressure, With Or Without Steaming Or Heating, (i) To Remove Unintended Creases And To Impart A Flat Appearance To Fabrics And Garments, (ii) To Introduce Desirable Creases Garments.

Press-Off = Condition arising when hosiery presses off the machine and fails to knit, caused by slubs or knots in yarn, poorly wound cones, improper tension, machine in bad mechanical condition, etc.

Pressure Boil = The Scouring Of Cellulosic Textiles With Alkaline Liquors In Closed Vessels Under Excess Pressure, Normally 140-210 Kpa.

Primary Cellulose Acetate = An Ester Formed From Cellulose And Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) Used To Make Acetate Fibres. , Note: Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic Anhydride (acetic Anhydride) In The Presence Of A Catalyst (such As Sulphuric Acid Or Perchlori

Print Bonding = A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which There Is Controlled Application Of Adhesive Specific Areas Of The Fibre Web Or Batt By Using Printing Techniques Similar To Those Used Coloration.

Printed & Overdyed = Refers To Fabrics Which Have Been First Printed Then Overdyed Allowing The Design To Show Through.

Printing = The Production Of A Design Or Motif On A Substrate By Application Of A Colorant Or Other Reagent, Usually In A Paste Or Ink, In A Predetermined Pattern.

Printing = Method of producing patterns or designs on hosiery by depositing color or other treating material and fixing with steam, heat, or chemicals. There are many different methods for printing.

Private Label = Merchandising hosiery products under the name of a retail operation, as opposed to manufacturer's brand names. Private label programs, sometimes called private brands, can include all varieties of men's or women's pantyhose, stockings, or socks.

Producer Twist = The Small Amount Of Twist Inserted During The Production Of Multi-filament Yarn By Certain Take-up Systems Such As Pot, Cap, Or Ring-and-traveler.

Proof = Fully Resistant To A Specified Agency, Either By Reason Of Physical Structure Or Inherent Chemical Non-reactivity, Or Arising From A Treatment Designed To Impart The Desired Characteristics. Note 1: Proofing Treatments Are Defined By Specified Limits Asce

Proofed = Descriptive Of Material That Has Been Treated To Render It Resistant To A Specified Agency. Note: A Designation Of Materials As 'proofed' Should Indicate That The Material Conforms To Definite Standards

Proportioned Fit = Stockings or pantyhose specially designed to have different circumferences (foot, ankle, calf, and thigh) and lengths for each size wearer.

Prosthetic = Hosiery designed specifically to be worn or used with a prosthesis or artificial limb.

Protein (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Obtained From Natural Protein Substances By Chemical Regeneration.

Ptfe = See Polytetrafluoroethylene

Pu Coated = Refers To A Fabric Which Has Been Coated With Polyurethane, Usually To Make It Waterproof But Sometimes To Give A Firmer Hand.

Pucker = A Blister Or Puffed Effect On The Surface Of The Fabric . It May Be The Result Of Chemical Treatment Of The Fabric Or The Result Of Using Different Yarns, Yarns Under Different Tension, Or Yarns Of Different Shrinkage In One Fabric.

Pucker Embroidery = Fabric Which Has Been Embroidered In A Such A Way That The Stitching Purposefully Causes A Crinkle Or Pucker In The Fabric.

Pull (sampling) = A Sample Of Fibres Abstracted Manually From A Bulk Lot Of Raw Material Or Sliver With A View To Assessing The Length And/or Distribution Of Length Of Fibre Within The Sample.

Pull Threads = A thread is snagged and pulled from the fabric causing tight stitches that rupture under strain to make holes and runs. The greatest hazard to sheer hosiery is a pulled thread. This accounts for approximately 80 percent of all ruined sheer hosiery product

Pulling (rag) = The Operation Of Reducing Rags And Thread Waste To A Fibrous State.

Pulling (wool) = The Removal Of Wool From Skins. Note: Before Removal, The Fibres Are Loosened By Treatment. The Skins May Be Placed On A Curved Board, And, With Ordinary Skins, The Wool Is Pushed Or Rubbed With The Hands; With Short-wool Skins, A Blunt Knife, Held With B

Pulp (cotton) . = Purified Cotton Linters Usually In The Form Of Standard Sheets About 1 Mm Thick. Note: The Preparation Of The Linters Involves One Or More Pressure Boils With Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda) Followed By Hypochlorite Bleaching, The Severity And Number Of T

Pulp (wood) = Cellulose Fibres Isolated From Wood By Chemical Treatments. Note 1: The Preparation Of Wood Pulp Involves The Boiling Of Wood Chips With Alkaline Liquors Or Solutions Of Acidic Or Neutral Salts Followed By Bleaching With Chlorine Compounds, The Object Of

Pump Delivery (man-made fibres) = The Volume Of Liquid Delivered By One Revolution Of A Spinning Pump.

Punching (wool industry) = A Winding Operation That Prepares Four-end Balls Of Sliver For A Noble Comb.

Pyjama = Trouser-like Garment, Worn On The Lower Part Of The Body Alike By Men And Women. Literally, 'leg-clothing'. The Pyjama Was Worn In Many Cuts And Shapes, Much Variation Being Seen In Respect Of Girth, Length, Tightness, Material, Etc.

Pyjama = The Word Derives From The Hindustani Epai-jama. Pyjamas Were Already Worn In England In The 17th Century And Were Called Moghul Breeches.

Q = Q

Qaba = A Full-sleeved Garment For Outer Wear, Worn By Men, Closely Related To Thejama . William Thevenot Who Saw This Garment Frequently At The Moghul Court Spoke Of The "caba Of The Indians" Being "wider Than That Of The Persians, And 1 Cannot Tell How To Expre

Qamis = A Shirt. Cf. French, Chemise.

Queen Size = Stockings, pantyhose, or knee-highs sized to fit the heavier woman. Queen size is usually considered an extension of standard garments into a larger size. Outsize, on the other hand, is considered a separate category of merchandise altogether (see Outsize

Quench = A Cooling Zone In Which The Temperature Of Melt-spun Filaments Is Lowered Very Rapidly And/or At A Controlled Rate Soon After Extrusion. The Two Main Types Are Water-quench And Air-quench.

Quilted = Two Or More Layers Of Fabric Which Have Been Stitched Through, Often With Batting . The Stitching Forms A Pattern, Most Commonly A Square Or Diamond Shape. Used For Apparel, Bedspreads, Sleeping Bags. Thermoplastic Fibers Such As Polyester Or Nylon Are So

R = R

Rabat = In The 17th Century The Rabat Was A Collar Of Linen And Lace Worn Over The Doublet. Ecclesiastics Wore A Narrower Rabat And This Accessory For Ecclesiastical Town Dress Remained In Use For A Long Time Afterwards.

Rabbit Hair = Fur From The Common Or Wild Rabbit.

Rack Stitch = A Knitting Stitch That Produces A Herringbone Effect With A Rib Back.

Raffia = A Fibre Obtained From The Leaves Of The Raffia Palm Raphia Raffia.

Rag Sock = Recycled fiber spun into useable yarn count to create a casual look.

Rags (new) = The Waste Fabric, Whether Woven Or Knitted, That Is Left After A Garment Has Been Cut Out. The Term Also Covers Piece Ends And Discarded Pattern Bunches.

Rags (old) = Worn Garments That Have Been Discarded.

Raising = The Production Of A Layer Of Protruding Fibres On The Surface Of Fabrics By Brushing, Teazing, Or Rubbing.

Ramie = A Bast Fibre Obtained From The Stems Of Boehmeria Nivea Gaud, Especially The Variety Tenacissima Belonging To The Urticaceae Or Nettle Family. It Usually Reaches European Markets In The Form Of Ribbons.

Raschel = Refers To Knit Fabric Made A A Raschel Machine, A Warp Knitting Machine Capable Of A Wide Variety Of Intricate Designs, Various Surface Textures, And Open Work Effects.

Raschel Lace = A Lace Fabric Knit On A Raschel Machine. Usually Moderately Priced.

Rate Of Dyeing. = The Rate At Which A Dye Is Absorbed By A Substrate Under Specified Conditions. Note: It May Be Expressed Quantitatively In Several Ways, Such As The Weight Of Dye Absorbed In Unit Time, Or The Time Taken For The Substrate To Absorb A Given Fraction Of The

Ratine = A Plain Weave , Loosely Constructed Fabric With A Rough, Nubby Texture Resulting From The Use Of Ratine Yarn, A Knotted, Curly, Plied Yarn. Used For Drapery, Dresses And Women's Sportswear.

Raw Silk = Continuous Filaments Or Strands Containing No Twist, Drawn Off Or Reeled From Silk Cocoons.

Raw Yarn = Filament yarn which has no stretch and is untextured.

Rayon = A generic term for filaments made from various solutions of modified cellulose by pressing or drawing the cellulose solution through an orifice and solidifying it in the form of a filament. Rayon has a soft hand, high moisture absorbency and retention, an

Rayon (fibre) (USA) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose, As Well As Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose In Which Substituents Have Replaced Not More Than 15% Of The Hydrogens Of The Hydroxyl Groups. The Iso Generic

Reaction Spinning (man-made-fibre production) = A Process In Which Polymerization Is Achieved During The Extrusion Of Reactants Through A Spinneret System.

Reactive Dyed = Water Soluble Dyes That Bond Well To Cellulosic And Nylon Fibers. Provide Good Brightness And Colorfastness.

Re-breaking = The Shortening Of Fibres In A Sliver Or Top By A Process Similar In Principle To Stretch Breaking. Re-breaking May Be Intended To Shorten A Limited Number Of Over Length Fibres Or To Reduce The Average Length.

Reciprocated = In the usual knitting process, the sock is begun at the top and knitted toward the toe. Upon reaching the heel, the machine begins to move more slowly in a semi-circular ("reciprocated") fashion to produce the heel pocket. It may be adjusted to reciprocat

Recommended Allowance = The Percentage That, In The Calculation Of Commercial Weight Of Textile Material And Of Yarn Linear Density Is Added To The Oven-dry Weight. The Determination Of This Weight May Or May Not Be Preceded By Washing To Remove Natural Or Added Oils And Dressin

Redox Potential = The Potential Developed When A Bright Platinum Electrode Is Immersed In A Solution Containing An Ionic Species In Two Interconvertible Oxidation (valency) States. The Potential Is Dependent Upon The Ratio Of The Concentrations Of The Two Oxidation States,

Regain = The Weight Of Moisture Present In A Textile Material Expressed As A Percentage Of The Oven-dry Weight

Regenerated Cellulose Fibre = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose, As Well As Manufactured Fibres Composed Of Regenerated Cellulose In Which Substituents Have Replaced Not More Than 15% Of The Hydrogens Of The Hydroxyl Groups. The Iso Generic

Regenerated Fibre = A Man-made Fibre Produced From A Naturally Occurring Fibre-forming Polymer By A Process That Includes Regeneration Of The Original Polymer Structure.

Regenerated Protein Fibre = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Obtained From Natural Protein Substances By Chemical Regeneration.

Reinforced = The stress areas such as the toe or panty portion have been strengthened with yarns of heavier denier.

Relative Humidity = The Ratio Of The Actual Pressure Of The Water Vapour In The Atmosphere To The Saturation Water Vapour At The Same Temperature. The Ratio Is Usually Expressed As A Percentage E.g. 65 % Rh.

Relaxation = The Releasing Of Stresses In Textile Materials.

Rep = A Plain Weave Fabric With Ridges In The Filling. Used For Drapery, Upholstery, Neckties, Robes.

Repeating Unit = A Chemical Group That Recurs In The Backbone Of A Polymer.

Replaceable Legs = Two legged, waist high garment designed to where the legs can be replaced. Legs are either attached to the panty portion at the top of the stocking below the crotch, or a single leg is knitted with a half panty and full waistband so that when two are put

Residual Shrinkage = The Latent Shrinkage Of A Fibre, Filament, Yam, Or Fabric.

Resin Treated = A Fabric That Has Been Treated With A Synthetic Film-forming Polymer (resin) . This May Be Done To Make The Fabric Firmer, Heavier, More Stable, To Add Wrinkle Resistance, To Reduce Shrinkage Or To Create Surface Effect Such As Embossing Or Glazing.

Resist Printed = A Chemical Is Printed On Certain Areas Of The Fabric To Make Those Areas Resistant To Dye. Allows For The Printing Of Small Or Fine Motifs In The Design..

Retexturing = A Process For Treating Dry-cleaned Garments, Etc., To Improve Their Properties, Particularly Water Repellence And Handle.

Retractive Force (textured Yarn) = The Tension In A Textured Yarn Due To The Formation Of Crimp In The Filaments Under Specified Conditions Of Crimp Development.

Retting (flax) = The Subjection Of Crop Or Deseeded Straw To Chemical Or Biological Treatment To Make Fibre Bundles More Easily Separable From The Woody Part Of The Stem. Flax Is Described As Water-retted, Dew-retted Or Chemically-retted, Etc., According To The Process Em

Reused Wool = Wool Rags And Manufactured Waste, Torn Up And Reprocessed Into Fibres Again, And Used For Such Fabrics As Are Composed Of Shoddy And Mungo Yarns.

Rhinegraves = See Petticoat Breeches. They Are Said To Derive From Holland Or Germany.

Rhinestones = Faceted, Highly Refractive, Imitation Gemstones That Are Attached To The Fabric For Decorative Purposes.

Rib = 1. Any Fabric With A Cord Or Ridge Effect . 2. A Knit Fabric Made With Plain Stitches Alternating With Purl Stitches. Rib Knits Have Natural Stretch Properties.

Ribbed = Vertical pattern of alternating ridges in socks and sheer hosiery. Design may be formed through differences in weight, in knit stitch or opacity.

Ring Spinning = A Spinning System In Which Twist Is Inserted In A Yarn By Using A Revolving Traveller. The Yarn Is Wound On Since The Rotational Speed Of The Package Is Greater Than That Of The Traveller.

Ring Spinning = A system of spinning using a ring and traveler take-up wherein the drafting of the roving and the twisting and winding of the yarn on to the bobbin proceed simultaneously and continuously.

Ring Spun = A Yarn Spinning Method In Which Roving ( A Thin Strand Of Fiber With Very Little Twist) Is Fed To A "traveler" With Rotates Around The Edge Of A Ring. Inside The Ring Is A Faster Rotating Bobbin . The Process Simultaneously Twists The Roving Into Yarn And

Ring-Spun Yarn = Yarn prepared by drafting and twisting together individual fibers with the use of rings to achieve a desired yarn size.

Ripening = (1) A Process In The Production Of Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate) Consisting In The Splitting Off Of Some Of The Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) And Most Of The Combined Catalyst Present In The Primary Cellulose Ethanoate (acetate). (2) A Process In The Manufa

Ripping = The Operation Of Removing Cotton Or Man-made Fibre Linings From Garments Prior To The Sorting And Classification Of Rags.

Ripstop = A Woven Fabric With Corded Yarns Spaced At Regular Intervals In Both The Warp And Filling, Forming Squares On The Surface Of The Fabric. Originally Intended So A Tear In The Fabric Would Not Spread. Used Mainly For Outerwear And Active Wear.

Robe = Originally This Described All The Furniture And Effects Belonging To A Person, Then The Meaning Was Gradually Reduced Until It Denotes A Person's Collection Of Clothing.

Robe À L'anglaise = Mid- To Second Half Of 18th Century Dress That Was Made With A Fitted Back Called "en Fourreau".

Robe De Chambre / Robe Volante = In The 17th Century The Word Had Nothing Of The Modern Sense Of Déshabillé, It Was Simply A Gown Differing From The Court Gown, And Was Admitted To The Chambres Of The Royal Apartments Outside Receptions And Ceremonies.

Rolldown, Rolled Cuff, Rolled Top = A top which is turned over on itself and sewn down, often during the knitting operation. Traditionally a women's style, but recently emerging in men's athletic socks.

Roller Printed = A Method Of Printing By Passing The Fabric Over Metal Rollers On Which The Design Has Been Engraved. One Roller Is Used For Each Color. Used For Printing Long Runs With Good Register And A Clear, Sharp Design.

Rolling (flax) = The More General Term Is Breaking And Consists Of Deformation Of The Plant Structure By Flattening The Stem, Loosening The Bond Between The Fibre Bundles And The Wood, And Breaking The Woody Part Into Short Pieces, To Facilitate Their Removal From The Fib

Rose Point Lace = A Needlepoint Lace With Floral Patterns Connected By Bars. Similar To Venitian Lace But With Smaller Patterns.

Rotary Screen Printed = In Screen Printing A Separate Screen Is Created For Each Color . The Open Mesh Part Of The Screen Corresponds To The Area To Be Printed In That Color. The Areas Where Color Is Not To Pass Through Are Blocked. Dye Paste Is Forced Through The Open Mesh Area

Rotor Spinning = A Method Of Open-end Spinning Which Uses A Rotor (a High Speed Centrifuge) To Collect A Individual Fibres Into A Yarn, The Fibres On Entering A Rapidly Rotating Rotor Are Distributed Around Its Circumference And Temporarily Held There By Centrifugal Force

Roughing (scutched Flax) = A Preliminary Hand Hackling Operation Involving The Removal Of Tangled And Short Fibres By Means Of A Roughing Tool.

Roughing-out (flax) = The Rough Separation Of The Seed From The Chaff, Short Straw, Weeds, And Other Extraneous Material Produced During De-seeding.

Roving = A Name Given, Individually Or Collectively, To The Relatively Fine Fibrous Strands Used In The Later Or Final Processes Of Preparation For Spinning.

Rubber = An extruded, natural latex thread incorporated in some sock tops as an elastic.

Rubber Filament = A filament extruded from natural or synthetic rubber and used at the core of some elastic threads.

Rubber-like = Having A Hand Suggesting Rubber.

Ruff = Stiffened Frill Of Lace Or Pleated Linen, Worn In The 16th And Early 17th Centuries. A Forerunner Of Falling Band And Cravats.

Rug, Scutching (flax) = The Partly Scutched Short Straws That Fall Below The Two Compartments Of A Scutching Machine After (a) The Shives Have Been Shaken Out Of It, Or (b) The Waste Made During The Production Of Scutched Flax On A Wheel.

Runblocks = Mesh stitches that act as a deterrent to runs around the crotch seams. These stitches are usually used in all-nude constructions.

Runguard = Acts as a deterrent to runs from the foot into the leg, or from the panty into the leg. It can be made of heavier yarn, or can be a change of stitch from plain to mesh.

Running = Socks designed specifically for running or jogging enthusiasts. Generally has heavier padding or cushioning in the heel to absorb vibrations or pounding the foot takes while jogging. Comes in varying heights from below the ankle bone to mid-calf. Also usu

Run-Resistant = Stockings or pantyhose knit with micro mesh or tuck stitch patterns that resist runs in an upward direction.

Runs = Stitches that have unchained due to broken stitches.

S = S

Sack Dress, Also Robe À La Francaise = Mid- To Second Half Of 18th Century Dress That Was Made With A Box Pleated Back ("watteau"-pleats) Falling Loosely From Just Below The Shoulder To The Floor.

Sack Gown / Robe Volante / Andrienne = A Loose Dress Flaring Out At The Bottom, The Back Attached To The Neckband With Gathers At First, Then With Pleats. It Was Worn From About 1704 To About 1730-35.

Sacking = A General Name Applied To Coarse Fabrics Used Chiefly For The Making Of Bags Or Sacks. They Are Often Made Of Jute, Hemp, Flax Or Polyolefin, And The Number Of Threads Per Centimetre May Vary From 2 To Over 12.

Sadri = A Sleeveless Jacket Worn Over A Shirt Or Kurta, Alike By Men And Women. The Name Of This Popular Garment Derives Possibly From Aura, 'the Upper Part Of The Human Breast'.

Sailcloth = Originally A Tightly Woven Cotton Or Linen Canvas Used In The Manufacture Of Ship And Yacht Sails. It Is Now More Common For These Fabrics To Be Manufactured From Nylon For Spinnakers, And Polyester Or Aramid For Foresails And Mainsails. Newer Development

Salt Sensitivity  = (1) The Extent To Which The Dyeing Properties Of A Dye Are Affected By The Addition Of A Neutral Electrolyte To The Dyebath. Note: This Term Is Usually Only Applied In The Dyeing Of Cellulosic Fibres. (2) The Susceptibility Of Coloured Material To Change

Salwatishalwar = A Pajama Like Garment For The Lower Part Of The Body, Baggy And Wide At The Top, And Not So Tight Around The Legs And Ankles. Worn Mostly By Women, But Also By Men In Some Parts Of India, Especially In The Northwest.

Sandalfoot Hosiery = This is a nude toe, meaning no heavier yarn in the toe than is in the leg.

Sanded = A Finishing Process That Brings The Fabric In Contact With Sandpaper Or Another Abrasive Material. This May Be Done To Raise Surface Fiber, Impart A Peached Or Sueded Hand Or To Create A Surface Effect.

Sanforized = A Trademarked Finishing Process Which Compresses The Fabric To Reduce Its Residual Shrinkage To Not More Than 1 Percent.

Sansevieria = A Fibre Obtained From The Leaves Of Various Species Of Plants Of The Genus Sansevieria. Also Known As 'bow-string Hemp'.

Saran (fibre) (US) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 80% By Weight Of 1,1-dichloroethene (vinylidene Chloride) Units. The Iso Generic Name Is Chlorofibre

Sash = In The 60s And 70s Of The 17th Century A Broad, Loosely Knotted Sash Was Often Worn Around The Hips Over The Coat By Men. Usually Made Of Silk And The Edges Decorated With Tassled Fringes.

Sateen = A Smooth, Strong, Lustrous Satin Weave Fabric Made With Cotton Or Other Spun Yarns . In A Warp Face Satin, The Most Common, The Filling Yarns Cross Over One And Under Several Warp Yarns, Thus Mainly The Warp Yarns Are Visible On The Face. In A Filling Fac

Satin = A Smooth Strong, Lustrous Satin Weave Fabric Made With Silk Or Manufactured Filament Yarns . In A Warp Face Satin, The Most Common, The Filling Yarns Cross Over One And Under Several Warp Yarns, Thus Mainly The Warp Yarns Are Visible On The Face. In A Fil

Satin Stripe = Stripes In A Fabric Formed By A Satin Weave, Often Alternating With Sheer Plain Weave Stripes.

Satin-back Crepe = See Crepe-back Satin.

Saturation Bonding = A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which A Fibre Web Or Batt Is Treated By Overall Application Of An Adhesive In Liquid Form. (see Also Adhesive-bonded Nonwoven Fabric.)

Saxony = 1. A Soft, Heavy Luxurious, Napped Fabric Made From Fine Merino Wool Originally From Saxony, Germany. Used For Coats 2. A Soft Tweed Fabric Of Fine Wool. Used For Sport Coats.

Scale Margins = The External Margins Of Cuticular Scales. The Distance Between Scale Margins Is Described As Close, Near, Distant, Or A Combination Of These Such As Near To Distant.

Scale Patterns = The Pattern Formed By The Scale Margins. Most Scale Patterns Are Waved, Although Not All To The Same Extent. Patterns May Described As Regular, Irregular Or Streaked. A Regular Waved Pattern Is One In Which The Waves Are Of Almost Equal Wavelength And Equ

Scalloped = A Series Of Semicircular Curves Along The Edge Of A Fabric. Used As Decorative Edge For Skirts, Curtains.

Scenic = Refers To Print Motifs With A Landscape Theme.

Scented = Fabric That Is Purposely Impregnated With A Chemical That Gives It An Aroma Able To Withstand Multiple Washings.

Schappe Silk = Originally, Yarn Spun From Fibre Degummed By Schapping, But Nowadays The Term Increasingly Used As A Generic Alternative To Spun Silk. Note: The Change In Meaning Reflects The Greatly Decreased Use Of Fermentation Processes For Degumming,

Schappe-spun = Originally Used To Describe A Silk Yarn From Fibre Degummed By The Schapping Process, But Now Used Both In The U.K., And Elsewhere In Europe As A Term Synonymous With Silk-spun.

Schapping = A European Method Of Degumming Applied To Silk Waste, Which Removes Part Of The Gum By A Fermentation Process. Up To 10% Of Gum May Remain On The Fibre.

Schiffli Embroidery = Embroidery Done On Fabric Using A Schiffli Machine. Capable Of Intricate Designs.

Schiffli Lace = A Lace Made With A Schiffli Embroidery Machine By Embroidering The Design On A Net Ground. The Ground May Be Kept Or Later Burned Away.

Schreiner = (1) Descriptive Of A Calender With Two Or Three Bowls In Which One (the Middle One In A Three-bowl Calender) Is Of Highly Polished Steel Engraved With Very Fine Parallel Lines (grooves) Running At An Angle Of Approximately 20° To Either The Horizontal Or

Scotchguard = A Water Repellent And Oil Repellent Finish Trademarked By 3m Company.

Scouring = The Treatment Of Textile Materials In Aqueous Or Other Solutions In Order To Remove Natural Waxes, Proteins And Other Constituents, As Well As Dirt, Oil And Other Impurities. Note: The Treatment Varies With The Type Of Fibre. Cotton And Flax Goods Are Nor

Scouring = A process (soap bath) that removes chemicals, tints, impurities and foreign matter from socks during finishing.

Screen Printing = A Design Reproduction Process, Developed From Stencilling, In Which Print Paste Is Forced Through Unblocked Areas Of A Mesh, In Contact With The Substrate. The Mesh May Be A Woven Fabric Or A Fine Screen, Flat Or Cylindrical (rotary Screen). Pressure Is A

Scrim = A General Term, Irrespective Of Structure, For A Lightweight Basecloth Included In A Nonwoven Fabric

Scroop = A Rustling Noise And A Characteristic 'dry' Handle When A Material Is Compressed By Hand. Scroop Is Usually Associated With Silk But Also Produced In Certain Man-made Cellulosic Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics By Suitable Finishing Treatments. It Is Probably As

Scutching (cotton) = An Operation In Which Cotton Is Opened Mechanically, Cleaned And Formed Into A Continuous Lap

Scutching (flax) = The Operation Of Separating The Woody Part Of Deseeded Or Retted Flax Straw From The Fibre.

Sea Island Cotton = The Exceptionally Fine, Long-staple Types Of Cotton Grown In The West Indies

Seam Line = Is The Line Which Indicates Where The Seam Should Be Stitched - Or It Is Plainly The Stitching Line Of Any Garment.

Seamed = Hosiery manufactured in the old full-fashioned manner with a seam running up the back of the leg. In the past, these garments were manufactured by cutting fabric and sewing it together. Today these products are generally made on a full circular knitted tw

Seamless = Stockings knit in one operation on circular machines (one continuous operation) so that no seaming is required up the back. (See Full-Fashioned)

Secondary Cellulose Acetate = An Ester Formed From Cellulose And Ethanoic Acid (acetic Acid) Used To Make Acetate Fibres. Note: Purified Cellulose Is Ethanoylated (acetylated) By Ethanoic Anhydride (acetic Anhydride) In The Presence Of A Catalyst (such As Sulphuric Acid Or Perchloric

Seconds = Socks with major imperfections which make them unsuitable for sale even as irregulars. The Federal Trade Commission defines seconds as all hosiery which is not of first quality, does not qualify as "irregulars" and which contains runs, obvious mends, irre

Secrète = French Word For Under Layer Of A Skirt. Two Layers Were Always Worn, Even When The Outer Layer Modeste Was Closed In Front.

Seed Cotton = Cotton Which Has Been Harvested But Not Ginned, So That The Fibre Is Still Attached To The Seed.

Seed Hair = Fibres Growing From The Surface Of Seeds Or From The Inner Surfaces Of Fruit Cases Or Pods. Such Fibre (seed Hairs) Are Formed By The Marked Elongation Of Epidermal Cells. Note. From A Botanical Aspect, Cotton Is A Seed Hair, Since It Is An Outgrowth In T

Seersucker = A Lightweight Fabric With Puckered Stripes Made By Weaving With Some Of The Warp Yarns Tight And Some Loose . The Loose Warp Threads Become Crinkled. Frequently Made In Yarn Dye Stripes And Plaids. Often Made Of Cotton Or A Cotton Blend But Can Be In A Va

Selvedge ( USA Selvage) Widening = A Method Of Shaping A Garment Panel By Introducing Additional Needles At One Or Both Selvedges In A Sequence Designed To Increase The Width.

Semi Bleached = Fabric That Has Been Lightly Or Partially Bleached.

Semi-Boarded = These garments are not subjected to a full heat setting operation. In appearance they are slightly wrinkled and shapeless until stretched over the leg and body. This operation is sometimes called the Intech Process.

Semi-dull = Refers To Fabric From Manufactured Yarn That Has Been Delustered To Reduce But Not Completely Eliminate The Shine.

Semi-worsted Spun = A Term Applied To Yarn Spun From Sliver Produced By Carding And Gilling In Which The Fibres Are Substantially Parallel, The Carded Sliver Not Having Been Condensed Or Combed. Alternatively, The Yarn May Be Produced From A Roving. Note: The Above Definitio

Sequestering Agent = A Chemical Capable Of Reacting With Metallic Ions So That They Become Part Of A Complex Anion. The Principle Is Used To Extract Calcium Ions From Hard Water, Iron Ii And Copper Ions From Peroxide Bleach Liquors And Various Metallic Ions From Dyebaths, By

Sequins = A Small, Flat, Reflective Disk With A Hole For Attaching To The Fabric For Decorative Purposes. May Be Of Metal Plastic Or Shell.

Serge = A Smooth Faced 2x2 Twill Weave Fabric. Traditionally Of Wool But May Be Of Other Fibers. Used For Trousers, Suitings.

Serpentaux = Women's Hairstyle, With Almost Straight Hair Hanging Down, It Followed The Coiffure En Bouffons During The Reign Of Louis Xiii.

Service Weight = Generally considered to be a heavier weight garment for professional use such as nurses. Could be interchanged with opaques and are designed to provide longer wear life as compared to sheers.

Sett; Set = (1) A Term Used To Indicate The Density Of Ends Or Picks Or Both In A Woven Fabric, Usually Expressed As The Number Of Threads Per Centimetre. The State Of The Fabric At The Time Should Be Described E.g. Loomstate Or Finished. (2) Synonym For Count Of Ree

Setting = The Process Of Conferring Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usually By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions. Note: The Term Is Sometimes Used In Conjunction With A Description Of The Particular Characteristics

Seven-Eighths Hose = Socks which reach seven-eighths of the way from the ankle to the knee. (Also called golf hose).

S-finish = A Finish Produced On Triethanoate (cellulose Triacetate) Textiles By Surface Saponification.

Shaft = The Finer And Proximal Portion Of A Guard Hair.

Shafty Wool = Strong, Dense And Well Grown Wool With Good Length And Spinning Characteristics

Shahtoosh = The Hair Of The Tiberian Antelope (pantholops Hogsoni), Locally Called Chiru. The UN List This Animal Under The Convention Of International Irade In Endangered Species, Appendix 1, I.e. Giving It Highest Protection. The Only Way To Collect The Wool Is To

Shaker = A Heavy 1x1 Rib Knit.

Shantung = A Plain Weave Fabric With Slubbed Yarns Or An Uneven Ribbed Surface Texture. Originally Of Silk But Now May Be Of Cotton Or Man Made Fibers.

Shantung-type Yarn = An Irregular Yarn Made From Fibres Other Than Natural Silk To Imitate The Yarn Used For Making Shantung.

Shaping; Weft Knitting = Descriptive Of The Process Used To Shape A Knitted Product During Knitting By Changing The Number Of Stitches Per Course, Wale, Or Unit Area In The Fabric. The Various Methods Which May Be Used Separately Or In Combination Are:

Sharara = A Kind Of Loose, Trailing Pajama (q. V.) Worn By Women.

Sharkskin = 1. A Woven Fabric With The Yarns In Both Warp And Filling Alternating White And Color Giving It A Salt And Pepper Look. Used For Suitings . Usually A 2x2 Twill Weave But May Also Be Plain Weave. 2. A Crisp Fabric With A Pebbly Surface And A Dull Luster Us

Shear = (1) To Cut The Fleece From A Sheep. (2) To Cut A Nap Or Pile To Uniform Length Or Height (also Called Crop). (3) To Cut Loose Fibres Or Yam From The Surface Of A Fabric After Weaving (also Called Crop).

Sheer = A Thin, Fine , Semi Transparent Fabric.

Sheer Support = A term often used when describing support pantyhose, which are considerably more sheer than the original support garments, due to improvements in yarns and manufacturing techniques.

Sheers = Dress sheers are hosiery fashioned generally of 15 or 20 denier yarn - to be worn for daytime glamour. Evening sheers are hosiery fashioned of wisp-weight 10,12, or 15 denier yarn - to be worn for special occasions.

Sheer-To-The-Waist = Pantyhose without visible panty line or reinforcement in the panty portion. It is an all-sheer garment from waist to toe.

Sheeting = A Plain Weave Fabric With Even Or Close To Even Thread Counts In Warp And Weft . Often Of Cotton. Carded Yarn Versions Are Used For Inexpensive Apparel, Furniture Covers And As A Base For Laminates. Finer Yarns And Higher Counts May Be Used For Bed Sheets

Sherpa/berber = A Heavy Fabric With Clumped Pile Resembling The Fleece Of A Sheep. Used For Outerwear Trim And Lining.

Sherwani = A Coat Like Garment, Worn By Men Close To The Body, Of Knee-length, And Opening In Front With Button-fastenings. Related To The Achkan (q.v.); Especially Popular At The Hyderabad Court And In Aligarh.

Shetland = A Soft Shaggy Wool Tweed Fabric . Originally Referred To Only Wool From The Shetland Islands In Scotland But Now Refers To Any Wool Fabric With Similar Characteristics . May Be Woven Or Knit . Used For Overcoats, Sportcoats, Sweaters.

Shetland = Originally a soft, warm shaggy yarn made only from wool of Shetland sheep. Now often used to describe yarns that offer Shetland characteristics.

Shield = The Wider And Flattened Portion Of A Guard Hair. In Many Guard Hairs The Fine Shaft Widens Out Into A Flattened Shield, The Proportion Of Shaft To Shield Varying In Different Types Of Fibres.

Shiny = Refers To Fabric Having A Surface With A High Reflectance Of Light.

Shives (flax) = Short Pieces Of Woody Waste Beaten From Straw During Scutching.

Shivey Wool = Wool That Contains Small Particles Of Vegetable Matter Other Than Burrs

Shoddy = (1) Fibrous Material Made In The Woollen Trade By Pulling Down New Or Old Knitted Or Loosely Woven Fabric In Rag Form. (see Also Mungo And Note The Distinction.) (2) Droppings From Woollen Cards Consisting Of Very Short Fibres That May Be Heavily Charged

Shrinkage = The Reduction In Length (or Width) Of A Fibre, Yam, Or Fabric. It May Be Induced By, E.g., Wetting, Steaming, Alkali Treatment, Wet Processing As In Laundering, Or Dry Heat.

Shrinkage = A reduction in size that takes place when a fabric is washed and dried, or when hosiery is finished.

Shrink-resistant; Shrink-resisting; Shrink-resist = Descriptive Of Textile Materials That Exhibit Dimensional Stability Conforming To Specified Standards Based On Tests Designed To Simulate Normal Conditions Of Usage. Note: This Property May Be An Inherent Property Of The Textile Material Or May Be Conferr

Shuttle (lace Machines) = (1) (schiffli Embroidery Machine) A Boat-shaped Yam-package Holder Travelling In A Slide In Such A Manner That It Passes Through The Loop Formed In The Needle Thread Thus Forming The Back Thread Of The Lock Stitch. (2) (lace Furnishing Machine) A Term Use

Siddo Rags = Rags Consisting Of Interlinings From Garments. The Best Types Are Produced From Fabrics Made From Yams Of Hair, Or Blends Of Hair With Wool, Made On The Worsted System.

Sidha Paijama = Pajama (q.v.) With A Straight Cut.

Sighting Colour = See Fugitive Tint

Silhouette = Dark-shaded Profile Portrait Outline Of Any Garment.

Silk = The Fibroin Fibre Forming The Cocoons Produced By Silkworms.

Silk = The filaments obtained from the cocoons of various types of silkworms.

Silk Noils = Fibres Extracted During Silk Dressing Or Combing That Are Too Short For Producing Spun Silk. These Fibres Are Usually Spun On The Condenser System To Produce What Are Known As 'silk-noil Yams'.

Silk Waste = The Fibres Remaining After Drawing Off, Reeling, Or Throwing Nett Silk, And Fibres Obtained From Damaged Or Unreelable Cocoons.

Silken Sheers = Category of soft, silky well-fitting pantyhose made from Du Pont nylon and fine denier Lycra spandex.

Silk-spun = A Term Applied To Staple Yam Produced By Dressing Or Combing And Spinning On Machinery Originally Designed For Processing Waste Silk Into Yam (see Spun Silk). Note: Whenever The Term Silk-spun Is Used, It Is Qualified By The Name Of The Fibre And Fibres F

Silver Coated = A Fabric With A Silver Colored Coating . Used In Outerwear.

Singe = To Remove, By Burning Against A Hot Plate, In A Flame, Or By Infra-red Radiation, Unwanted Surface Hairs Or Filaments. The Operation Is Usually Performed As A Preliminary To Bleaching And Finishing.

Single Covered (Yarn) = The process of wrapping one non-elastic filament or spun yarn around the extended core. Single cover yarn has torque.

Single Covered Spandex = Spandex that has been wrapped in one direction with nylon or other yarn.

Single Yarn = A Thread Produced By One Unit Of A Spinning Machine Of A Silk Reel.

Sinkage = (1) Loss Of Weight In Wool Cleansing, Usually Expressed As A Percentage. (2) Unaccounted Or 'invisible' Loss Of Weight In Processing, Usually Expressed As A Percentage.

Sinker = The sinkers are steel elements that are located between the needles. The sinker holds the previously knitted fabric and prevents the loop from rising up the needle and interfering with the knitting action. It also helps support the old loop for the needle

Sisal = A Pale Cream Fibre Obtained From The Leaf Of The Sisal Plant (agave Sisalana Perrine).the Fibre From Other Agave Plants, And Particularly From Henequen (agave Fourcroydes Lemaire) Resembles Sisal Very Closely And Indeed Is Sometimes Also Termed 'sisal'.

Size = A Gelatinous Film-forming Substance, In Solution Or Dispersion, Applied Normally To Warps Sometimes To Wefts, Generally Before Weaving. Note 1: The Main Types Are Carbohydrates And Their Derivatives, Gelatin, And Animal Glues, Although Other Substances, S

Size = Foot size; length from back of heel to tip of toe.

Skein = See Hank

Skein Sizing = See Hank Sizing

Skein-Relaxed = A method of applying bulk to a yarn by the controlled application of heat. This softens yarn texture and hand.

Ski Sock = Sock designed specifically to wear in a ski boot. Has extra padding or cushioning to the front portion of the foot or anklet where binding can rub blisters on the foot. This extra cushioning or padding helps prevent blisters and protects the foot. Also de

Skin Wool = Wool Removed From The Skins Of Slaughtered Sheep . Note: There Are Three Methods Of Removal. (a) Lime-steeping, (b) Sweating (by Bacterial Action), And (c) Painting With, For Example, Sodium Sulphide.

Skirting (wool) = (1) The Removal Of Wool Different From The Main Bulk From The Edges Of A Fleece. See Also Wool Classing (2 ) A Wool Sorting Term For Stained Parts Of The Fleece Such As The Legs And The Whole Edge Of The Fleece.

Slashings = Small Openings Made In A Garment, Showing The Lining. Slashings (crevés, Chiquetades) Were Made In Garments, Shoes And Gloves.

Slay = Also Sley . That Oscillating Part Of A Weaving Machine, Positioned Between The Healds And The Fell Of The Cloth, Which Carries The Reed.

Slinky = A Market Term For A Shiny, Drapey Knit Fabric Of Synthetic Fiber With Fine Ribs.

Slipe = Lime-steeped Wools

Slipper Sock = Casual in the house or bedtime sock that usually has a bonded sole of rubber, leather or extra cushioning or padding on the bottom. This sole can be bonded, sewn or heat transferred to the knitted sock.

Sliver = An Assembly Fibres In Continuous Form Without Twist.

Sliver = A loose, soft, untwisted strand or rope of fibers used in making yarn. In diameter about the size of a man's thumb.

Slope = Loose Clothes Tunics, Smocks, Trousers

Slouch Sock = Fashion sock with an elongated top designed to be pushed down and worn gathered around the ankle.

Slub = A Short Abnormally Thick Place In A Yarn.

Slub Yarns = Any yarn made in an irregular diameter to achieve a nubby or knotted effect.

Slubbed = Refers To Fabric Using Yarn With Uneven Areas, I.e. With A Thick And Thin Appearance Occurring At Irregular Intervals.

Slubbing = The Name Given, Individually Or Collectively, To Relatively Thick Fibrous Strands, And Also To Strips Of Web From A Condenser Card That Have Been Consolidated Into A Circular Cross-section By Rubbing.

Slurry Steeping = A Process In The Manufacture Of Viscose Rayon In Which A Pulp Is Dispersed In A Solution Of Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda) In The Preparation Of Alkali-cellulose.

Smooth = Refers To Fabric With An Even Surface With Little Surface Hair Or Texture.

Smooth-drying = See Drip-dry

Snag = Same as pulled thread. (See Pull Threads)

Soccer Sock = Sock designed for specific use among soccer enthusiasts. Has a pocket or pouch knitted into the front where shin guards can be placed for personal protection. May also have extra cushioning or padding in the foot portion.

Soft = Having A Gentle, Pliable, Supple, Hand.

Softening = The Application Of A Chemical Agent And/or Mechanical Process, E.g., Calendering, To Impart To Fabrics A Soft Handle And Frequently A Smooth Appearance. A Number Of Chemical Softening Agents Also Confer A Fullness Of Handle.

Soil Release = Any One Of A Class Of Textile Finishes That Make It Possible To Remove Stains From Fabrics By Ordinary Domestic Washing.

Solid = Having A Single Even Color.

Solitaire = Narrow Black Ribbon Fashionable In The 18th Century From About 1725 Onwards. It Was Tied To The Wig, Then Brought Around To The Front Of The Neck And Fastened, Usually In A Bow, Over The Stock.

Solvent Bonding = A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which A Solvent Is Used To Soften The Fibre Surfaces In A Web Or Batt And Hence Cause Bonding.

Solvent Dyeing = Dyeing Carried Out From A Continuous Non-aqueous Phase.,note. Water May Be Added To Assist The Dyeing Process.

Solvent Finishing = The Treatment Of Textile Materials With Reagents, Other Than Dyes, Dissolved In Organic Solvents.

Solvent Scouring = The Treatment Of Fabrics In Organic Solvent Media To Remove Impurities Such As Lubricating Oils And Spin Finishes.

Soupling = A Softening Process Applied To Continuous-filament Silk Yarns That Are To Be Dyed 'in The Gum'. The Yarns Are Treated In Warm Soap Solution And Softened In An Acid Tartrate Bath. Such Treatments Normally Remove Some Of The Gum, To Leave 10-15% On The Fibr

Sour = To Treat Textile Materials In A Bath Of Dilute Acid.

Space Dyed = Sections Of The Yarn Are Dyed In Different Colors Resulting In A Fabric With A Multi-color Effect.

Spandex = A generic term denoting a man-made elastomeric fiber used in place of rubber. Spandex was developed by DuPont in 1959, offering the unique capacity for stretch and recovery. It can stretch to over five times its relaxed strength and fully recover. Spandex

Spandex (fibre) (us) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance Is A Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Comprised Of At Least 85% Of A Segmented Polyurethane. The Iso Generic Name Is Elastane

Spandex Sheers = A category of sheer hosiery styles. The leg yarn is composed of sheer nylon and single covered light-weight spandex (20 denier or finer) to give this hosiery good fit, sheerness, and softness. Spandex sheers do not give a support leg, but the spandex does

Spanish Blonde Lace = Usually A Large Floral Handmade Bobbin Lace Sewn To A Net Ground And Outlined In A Heavy Thread. Commonly Cream Color But Also May Be White Or Black.

Sparkle = A Fabric That Uses A Yarn, Usually Nylon With A High Reflectance Of Light.

Specific Length = A Count Of The Number Of Unit Lengths Per Unit Mass Of Linear Textile Material.

Specific Stress (formerly Mass-stress) = The Ratio Of Force To The Linear Density. This Ratio Is Equal To The Stress Per Unit Density And Is Expressed As Mn/dtex Or N/tex.

Spectator Socks = A casual men's or women's sports sock designed to coordinate with ready-to-wear but not engineered to provide optimum performance when used in active sports. Varies in length from footsocks to over-the-calf.

Spin Stretch Ratio = In Man-made Filament Extrusion, The Ratio Of Take-up Or Haul-off Speed To The Average Speed Of The Spinning Fluid As It Leaves The Spinneret. Note: The Terms Draw-down And Extrusion Ratio Are Also Commonly Used. Spinneret; Spinnerette (1) (man-made Fibres

Spin-drawing = A Process For Spinning Partially Or Highly Oriented Filaments In Which Most Of The Orientation Is Introduced Between The First Forwarding Device And The Take-up, I.e., Spinning And Drawing Are Integrated Sequential Stages

Spin-draw-texturing = A Process For Making Textured Yarns In Which Spinning, Drawing And Texturing Stages Are Integrated Sequentially On A Single Machine.

Spinning = The Present Participle Of The Verb 'to Spin' Used Verbally, Adjectivally, Or As A Noun, Meaning Process Or The Processes Used In The Production Of Yarns Or Filaments. Note 1: The Term May Apply To: (i) The Drafting And, Where Appropriate, The Insertion Of

Spinning Bath = A Coagulating Bath Into Which A Solution Or Dispersion Of A Fibre-forming Polymer Is Extruded During The Processes Of Wet-spinning Or Dispersion Spinning Respectively.

Spinning Frame = A Machine Consisting Of A Number Of Spinning Positions For Converting Slivers, Slubbings, Or Roving Into Yarn.

Spinning Pump = A Small Pump, Usually Of The Gear-wheel Type, Used To Provide A Uniform Flow Of A Spinning Solution Or Molten Polymer To A Spinning Jet.

Spinning Solution = A Solution Of Fibre-forming Polymer As Prepared For Extrusion Through A Spinneret. Note: A Spinning Solution Is Often Referred To As Dope, A Term Historically Associated With Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate) Solutions As Varnishes.

Splice = Knit-in reinforcement for areas of stress. Particularly effective in the panty of all nude garments.

Split Film = A Yarn Produced By The Process Of Fibrillation.

Split Sole = The foot of a sock made from two different materials.

Spongy = Having A Surface That Can Be Compressed But Recovers.

Sports Specific Socks = Contain extra padding and differ according to where the protective padding is placed - ball, toes, instep, heel, arch, shin - how thick the padding is and what materials they are made of.

Spray Bonding = A Method Of Making Nonwoven Fabrics In Which Droplets Of Adhesive Are Sprayed On To The Fibre Web Or Batt

Spray Dyeing = Application Of Colorant To A Substrate Using A Spray Gun With The Object Of Producing Ombre Effects.

Spray Print = Color Is Applied To The Fabric By Spraying Dye On The Surface With A Compressed Air Gun. Multiple Colors Maybe Applied By Using A Different Stencil For Each Color. Ombre Or Tie Dye Effects May Be Achieved.

Sprit (flax) = Small Pieces Of Woody Epidermal Tissue Adhering Firmly To Flax Fibre Strands.

Spun Silk = (1) Yarn Produced By Dressing Or Combing Processes From Silk Waste That Has Been 'boiled Off' To Remove The Gum. (2) Descriptive Of Fabrics Produced From Spun Silk.

Spun Yarn = Commonly Used To Describe A Yarn That Consists Of Staple Fibres Held Together (usually) By Twist.

Spun Yarns = Short lengths of fiber, of various lengths, are twisted together to form spun yarns. These yarns are more bulky than continuous filaments yarns, and are thus used in hosiery manufacturing of knee-highs and socks where a soft, fuzzy texture is desired.

Spunbonded = A Method Of Producing Nonwoven Fabric In A Continuous Process. Polymer Is Extruded Through A Spinneret And The Resulting Filaments Are Cooled And Laid Down In A Web Along A Continuous Conveyor Belt . The Web Is Then Bonded By Heat, Pressure Or Adhesives T

Spunlaced = A Method Of Producing A Nonwoven Fabric By Mechanically Entangling The Fibers With High Pressure Water Jets . Also Called Hydroentangled Fabric.

Spunlaid Fabric = A Nonwoven Fabric Made By The Extrusion Of Filaments That Are Laid Down In The Form Of A Web And Bonded.

Spur Leather = A Butterfly Shaped Piece Of Leather That Was Stitched Across The Instep Of Soft, Crumpling Leather Boots To Hold The Gold Or Silver Rowel Spurs. First Half Of 17th Century, "cavalier"-style.

Staining = (1) An Undesirable Local Discoloration. (2) In Fastness Testing Of Coloured Textiles; The Transfer Of Colorant From The Test Material To Adjacent Materials

Standard Atmosphere For Testing = (a) Standard Temperate Atmosphere: An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pressure With Relative Humidity Of 65% And A Temperature Of 20°c (68°f). (b) Standard Tropical Atmosphere: An Atmosphere At The Prevailing Barometric Pressure With A Relative Hu

Standard Condition For Physical Testing = A Textile Material Is In Standard Condition (or Is 'conditioned') For Physical Testing When, After Having Been Dried To Approximately Constant Weight In An Atmosphere With A Relative Humidity Not Higher Than 10%, It Has Been Kept In The Standard Atmospher

Staple = A Lock Or Tuft Of Fibres Of Uniform Properties And Hence A Lock Of Tuft Prepared To Demonstrate Fibre Length. In Bulk, A Mass Of Fibres Having A Certain Homogeneity Of Properties, Usually Length. Used As A Verb, To Bring Fibres To A Certain Uniformity Of

Staple = Short lengths of fiber that are spun together to form yarn.

Staple Fibre (man-made) = Man-made Fibres Of Predetermined Short Lengths.

Staple Length = A Quantity By Which A Sample Of Fibrous Raw Material Is Characterized As Regards Its Technically Most Important Fibre Length. Note: The Staple Length Of Wool Is Usually Taken As The Length Of The Longer Fibres In A Hand Prepared Tuft Or 'staple' In Its Na

Starch = A Carbohydrate Component Extracted From Certain Plants And Used In Sizing And Finishing. Its Use In These Operations Depends On Its Adhesive Or Film-forming Properties. Steeping (1) (general) The Treatment Of Textile Material In A Bath Of Liquid, Usually,

Steeple Crown Hat = Having A High Pointed Crown And Flat Brim, And Fashionable In The First Half Of The 17th Century.

Steinkirk, Also Steenkerk = Long Cravat, Often Tipped With A Fringe Or Lace, Worn With One End Tucked Through The Buttonhole Or Pinned With A Brooch At The Coat-front Or Waistcoat. Women Tucked Their Cravat Into Their Corset Laces. Fashionable Among Men And Also For Women For Severa

Stenter; Tenter = An Open-width Fabric-finishing Machine In Which The Selvedges Of A Textile Fabric Are Held By A Pair Of Endless Travelling Chains Maintaining Weft Tension. Note 1: Attachment May Be By Pins (pin Stenter) Or Clips (clip Stenter). Note 2.. Such Machines Are

Sticky Cotton = Cotton That Sticks To Roller Surfaces, Especially At A Card Or Drawframe, Causing Difficulties In Processing Or Even Making The Material Impossible To Process Without Special Precautions. Causes Of Cotton Fibre Stickiness Range From Contamination With Cot

Stippled = A Method Of Producing A Shading Or Watercolor Effect By Applying Color To The Fabric In Small Dots During Printing. The Degree Of Shading Is Determined By The Size And Frequency Of The Dots.

Stirrup = Sock specifically designed to be worn over a sanitary sock in various athletic sporting events. Has a knitted top but no heel or toe portion. A knitted strap goes under the arch to hold the sock down and in place, and can be manufactured with team colors,

Stitch = A stitch is the basic repeating unit of the yarn pattern in forming a knitted fabric, consisting of the needle loop and sinker loop.

Stitch Holding (shaping) = A Method Of Shaping A Knitted Product By Changing The Number Of Loops In Individual Wales By Continuing To Knit On Certain Needles Whilst Knitting Is Stopped And The Stitches Held On Other Needles For A Given Number Of Courses. It Is Possible To Start To

Stitch Holding (shaping) = A Method Of Shaping A Knitted Product By Changing The Number Of Loops In Individual Wales By Continuing To Knit On Certain Needles Whilst Knitting Is Stopped And The Stitches Held On Other Needles For A Given Number Of Courses. It Is Possible To Start To

Stitch Length (knitting) = The Length Of Yarn In A Knitted Loop

Stitch Shaped = A Garment Shaped Wholly Or Partially By Change Of Stitch Length, Or Structure, Or Both.

Stitch Transfer = A Method Of Shaping A Garment Panel On A Flat Knitting Machine By Transferring Selvedge Loops From One Needle Bed To The Other In A Sequence Designed To Increase Or Decrease The Width Of The Fabric Over A Given Number Of Courses. Shetland (1) Original Usa

Stock = High-stiffened Collar, Covered With Linen Or Black Satin And Fastened At The Back Of The Neck By Strings Or Stock Buckles. A Piece Of Material Simulating A Cravat Was Often Sewn Onto The Front Of The Stock. First Introduced As Military Costume At The Begi

Stock Dyed = Refers To The Dyeing Of Staple Fiber Before It Is Spun Into Yarn. A Common Method For Woolen Fabrics.

Stockinette = A Term Sometimes Used For Soft, Plain Stitch, Knit Jersey Used For Underwear & Other Apparel.

Stocking = A knitted, close-fitting covering for the foot and leg.

Stomacher = In Female Garments A V-shaped Section At The Front Of A Boned, Stiffened Under Bodice. The Stomacher Filled In The Upper Part Of The Gown.

Stonewashed = A Process Of Washing The Fabric With Pebbles To Alter The Hand And Produce Fading Of The Color.

Stoving = Bleaching Of Wool, Silk, Hair, Or Other Proteinaceous Materials In A Moist Condition With Sulphur Dioxide In An Enclosed Chamber. (wet Stoving Is The Treatment Of A Material With A Solution Of A Sulphite Or Bisulphite.)

Strand = (1) A Single Two-fold Or Multi-fold Yarn Used As A Component Of A Folded Or Cabled Construction. (2) Linear Textile Material Generally.

Strand = A single filament of fiber.

Straw, Yarn = Extruded Monofilament Yarns That Have The Cross-section And Appearance Of Natural Straw.

Stretch 2 Way = Refers To A Woven Or Knit Fabric With Elastic Properties In Both Directions, Usually The Result Of Using Spandex Yarn.

Stretch Fabric = A Fabric Characterized By A Capacity For Stretch And Recovery From Stretch. Note: The Term Is Used For Materials With Greater Extension And Recovery Properties Than Traditional Woven Or Knitted Structures From Conventional Yarns And Implies The Use Of Str

Stretch Hosiery = Stockings knit of processed nylon filament yarn treated to give permanent stretchability. Stretch stockings "change" size to fit each foot, leg length, and volume perfectly. They are extremely desirable to the woman whose dimensions are too heavy or too s

Stretch In Warp = Refers To A Woven Fabric With Elastic Properties In The Warp Direction Only, Usually The Result Of Using Spandex Yarn In The Warp.

Stretch In Weft = Refers To A Woven Fabric With Elastic Properties In The Weft ( Filling) Direction Only, Usually The Result Of Using Spandex Yarn In The Weft.

Stretch Knit = Refers To Any Knit Fabric With Elastic Properties Usually The Result Of Using Spandex Yarn.

Stretch Lace = Refers To A Lace Fabric With Elastic Properties, Usually The Result Of Using Spandex Yarn.

Stretch Socks = Socks which are made from stretch yarn such as Ban-Lon, Flexcel, Fluflon, Helanca, Superloft, or Synfoam. A stretch sock can be adapted to fit a range of foot sizes.

Stretch Spinning = A Process Of Spinning Whereby The Filaments Are Substantially Stretched At Some Stage Between Spinning (extrusion) And Collection. The Term Is Applied Specifically To A Process Involving Substantial Stretch In Order To Provide High-tenacity Yam.

Stretch Yarn = Yarn Capable Of A Pronounced Degree Of Stretch And Recovery From Stretch.

Stretch Yarns = Continuous filament yarns (e.g., nylon) that have been textured to give them elasticity.

Striated = Refers To Fabric Purposely Given A Narrow, Linear, Streaked Color Effect .

Strick. = A Small Bunch Of Flax Straws Of Scutched Flax, Or Hackled Flax, Of A Size That Can Be Held In The Hand. Note: In The Jute Section Of The Textile Industry, The Corresponding Term Is Strike Which Refers To A Bunch Of Jute Similar To A 'head' But Smaller, Us

Stripe = A Design Dominated By Lines Or Bands Of Contrasting Color Or Texture.

Stripping = Destroying Or Removing Dye Or Finish From A Fibre.

Strusa = See Frisons

Stuffer Box = A Crimping Device Consisting Of A Confined Space Into Which A Tow, A Converted Tow, A Sliver, A Yarn Or A Similar Assembly Of Filaments Or Fibres Is Injected By Feed Rollers Or Other Means Such As A Fluid Jet And In Which The Fibre Assembly Is Packed And

S-twist = See Twist Direction

Sublimation Printing = A Form Of Transfer Printing Employing Dyes That Sublime Readily And Have Substantivity For The Substrate To Which They Are Applied.

Substantivity = The Attraction Between A Substrate And A Dye Or Other Substance Under The Precise Conditions Of Test Whereby The Latter Is Selectively Extracted From The Application Medium By The Substrate.

Suede Cloth/faux Suede = A Fabric With A Short Nap And A Soft Finish That Suggests Animal Suede.

Sueded = Having A Hand That Suggests The Soft Supple Feel Of Real Suede Leather.

Suint = Excretion From Sweat Glands Of Sheep, Which Is Deposited On Wool Fibres.

Suithana = Pajama Like Garment, Worn Mostly By Women; Wide At Top And Comfortably Roomy Around The Legs And Ankles. Possibly From Sanskrit Svasthana, Mentioned In The Harshacharita.

Sulphur Dye = A Water-insoluble Dye, Containing Sulphur Both As An Integral Part Of The Chromophore And In Attached Polysulphide Chains, Normally Applied In The Alkaline Soluble Reduced (ieuco) Form From A Sodium Sulphide Solution And Subsequently Oxidized To The Insol

Sunn = A Bast Fibre Obtained From The Plant Crotolaria Juncea.

Super Toe = A construction in which the fabric in the toe has considerable more density than normal. The addition of density in the forward part of the foot is so gradual that no change in appearance is visible. The wear life achieved is significantly improved over t

Superfine Wool = A General Term For The Best And Finest Quality Of Wool With A Diameter Of 15-18 Microns.

Supple = Having A Soft, Flexible, Luxurious Hand.

Supplex Brand = A Du Pont Brand Of Filament Nylon Fiber.

Supplex Nylon = DuPont brand for cottony soft fabrics derived from air jet textured 1 DPF nylon yarns.

Support Hosiery = Socks or other hosiery made of nylon or polyester with spandex or other elastic fiber added to give support to the leg. Support hosiery has spandex in the legs to reduce leg fatigue. The principle of support is to provide graduated compression to the leg.

Surah = A Soft Twill Fabric Of Silk Or Synthetic Filament Fiber. Used For Scarves, Ties, Blouses.

Suralisurwal = A Breeches-like Garment For The Lower Part Of The Body, Tight Around The Legs. Worn Mostly In Nepal And Contiguous Areas.

Surface Decoration = Ornamenting The Surface Of A Fabric Or Garment (e.g. Embroidery Etc.)

Surfactant = An Agent, Soluble Or Dispersible In A Liquid, Which Reduces The Surface Tension Of The Liquid. (a Contraction Of 'surface-active Agent'.)

Surgical = Support hosiery usually knee high or thigh high in length, that is considered with graduated compression to aid blood flow before, during or after surgery. Are sometimes called therapeutic or anti embolism hosiery.

Suri = See Alpaca Fibre

Swatch; Sample Swatch = Fabric For Display, Test, Or Record Purposes, In The Form Of A Single Sample Or An Assembly Of Small Samples, The Latter Being Sometimes Called A Bunch.

Swealing = (1) Migration Of Dye Into The Angles Of Folds And Creases During Fabric Drying. (2) Partial Transfer Of Colour, Dirt Or Grease Into The Surrounding Fabric, Caused By Unsatisfactory Removal Of Stains By Hand From A Fabric When Using An Aqueous Or Solvent T

Swell Ratio = In Man-made Fibre Extrusion, The Ratio Of The Maximum Diameter Of The Extrudate As The Solution Or Melt Emerges From The Spinneret To The Orifice Diameter. It Is Sometimes Known As Die Swell .

Swelling Agent = A Substance That Causes The Total Liquid Imbibition Of A Fibre To Increase. Note: A Swelling Agent May Be Used In A Dyebath Or A Printing Paste To Promote Coloration By Accelerating The Diffusion Of Dyes Into A Fibre.

Syndet = A Detergent That Is Not A Soap. (a Contraction Of 'synthetic Detergent'.)

Syndiotactic Polymer = A Linear Polymer Containing Asymmetrically-substituted Carbon Atoms In The Repeating Unit Of The Main Chain, A Planar Projection Of Whose Structure Has The Same Substituents Situated Alternately On Either Side Of The Main Chain

Syntan = A Name For Synthetic Tanning Agents.

Synthetic Fibre = A Man-made Fibre Produced From A Polymer Built Up By Man From Chemical Elements Or Compounds, In Contrast To Fibres Made By Man From Naturally Occurring Fibre-forming Polymers.

T = T

Tackspun Fabric = A Material Made From A Polymer Film With A Backing Substrate. The Film Is Melted By A Roller To Which It Adheres, Drawing Up A Fibrous Pile.

Tactel Brand = A Du Pont Brand Of Filament Nylon Fiber.

Tactel Microfibers = DuPont brand for microfiber hosiery yarns (less than 1 DPF) that delivers the ultimate in softness.

Tactel Multifils = DuPont brand for 1 to 1.5 DPF yarns that blends softness with a sheer, clear look in hosiery.

Taffeta = A Plain Weave, Tightly Woven Smooth Crisp Fabric With A Characteristic Rustle. Made From Silk Or Man-made Filament Yarns.

Tag Wool = The First Clip From A Sheep Not Shorn As A Lamb.

Tahband = A Kind Of Girdle Or Belt.

Takauchiya = A Kind Pyjama (q.v.). Abu'i-fazl Describes It In The Ain-i-akbati As "a Coat Without Lining, Of The Indian Form. Formerly It Had Slits In The Skirt, And Was Tied On The Left Side; His Majesty Has Ordered It To Be Made With A Round Skirt And To Be Tied On

Tanis = Tie-cords Or Strings Used To Fasten Or Tighten A Garment When Worn.

Tape (textile) = (1) A Woven Narrow Fabric, Generally Plain-weave, Used In Non-loadbearing Applications And The Reinforcing Of Fabrics To Resist Wear And Deformation. (2) A Long Narrow Flat Structure With Textile-like Properties Made From Thermoplastic Polymer, Paper, Or

Tape Yarn = A Yarn Which Comprises A Tape With A Large Width-to-thickness Ratio, And Which Has An Apparent Width Not Exceeding An Agreed Limit (e.g., 5mm Or 8mm). Note: Such Yarns Are Usually Of Paper Or Are Formed By Slitting A Wide Film Of (usually) Polyethylene Or

Tape, Oriented = A Tape Made By Extruding A Thermoplastic Polymer, Usually A Polyolefin, In The Form Of A Sheet Or Film, Slitting The Sheet Into Tapes And Hot-stretching To Induce Molecular Orientation And Hence High Longitudinal Strength.

Taper = To Decrease Width Gradually And Bring It To An End Point.

Taper Line Gratings = Transparent Plates Containing Lines More Widely Spaced At One End Than The Other. By Selecting The Appropriate Taper Line Grating And Placing It Parallel To A Set Of Threads In A Woven Fabric, It Is Possible To Ascertain The Number Of Threads Per Unit Len

Tapestry = A Closely Woven Figured Fabric Of Compound Structure In Which A Pattern Is Developed By The Use Of Coloured Yarns In The Warp Or In The Weft Or Both. A Fine Binder Warp And Weft May Be Incorporated. It Normally Used For Upholstery. Note: Originally The Te

Tartan = Refers To The Kinds Of Plaid Patterns Traditionally Worn By Scottish Highlanders . Each Design Was Associated With A Specific Family Or "clan". The Term Is Generally Used To Today In Reference To Any Plaid Design Similar To These Scottish Designs.

Tartan = Any traditional plaid design.

Taslan = A Du Pont Trademark For A Method Of Bulking And Texturizing Yarn Using Compressed Air.

Tasteless = The Basques Of Early 17th Century Doublets.

Tattersall = A Simple Overcheck Design, Usually A Thin Check Of One Or 2 Colors On A Contrasting Color Ground.

Tear = The Ratio Of Top To Noil Produced In Combing.

Teazle; Teazel; Teasel = The Dried Seed-head Of The Plant Dipsacus Fullonum (fullers Thistle) Used To Raise A Pile Or Nap On Certain Fabrics. The Machine Used For This Purpose Is Known As A Teazle Gig.

Teentah Topi = A Topi (q.v.) Consisting Of Three Different Pieces, Stitched Together.

Teflon = A Water Repellent, Stain Resistant Finish Applied To Fabric . Trademark Of Du Pont Co.

Temporary Set = The Process Of Conferring Temporary Stability Of Form Upon Fibres, Yarns, Or Fabrics, Usually By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.

Tenacity = See Breaking Stress

Tencel Brand = Acordis Co.'s Brand Of Lyocell Cellulosic Fiber.

Tennis Sock = Sock designed specifically for tennis enthusiasts. Can be low cut, below the ankle bone or a higher length. Generally has extra cushioning near the ball of the foot to protect the wearer during a vigorous tennis match.

Tensile Strength = The ability of fabric or yarn to resist breaking by tension.

Tensile Test = A Test In Which The Resistance Of A Material To Stretching In One Direction Is Measured

Terry = A Fabric With Uncut Loops On One Or Both Sides . May Be Woven Or Knit. Used For Toweling, Robes. Knit Versions Such As French Terry Have Loops On One Side And Are Sometimes Brushed To Produce A Fleece.

Terry = A looped pile construction used inside most athletic socks and some work socks.

Tex = The Basic Unit Of The Tex System

Tex Is A Recognized Si Unit. = See Also Count, Hank, Lea (cotton), Flax Yarn Bundle

Tex System = A System Of Expressing Linear Density (mass Per Unit Length) Of Fibres, Filaments, Slivers, And Yarns, Or Other Linear Textile Material. The Basic Unit Is The Tex, Which Is The Mass In Grams Of One Kilometre Of The Product. Multiples And Sub-multiples Rec

Textile = Originally A Woven Fabric But The Term Is Now Applied To Fibres, Filaments, Or Yarns, Natural Man-made, And Products Obtained From Them. Note: For Example, Threads, Cords, Ropes, Braids, Lace, Embroidery, Nets, And Fabrics Made By Weaving, Knitting, Felti

Textile Film = A Man-made Textile Material In Film Form Within Which Molecular Orientation Is Predominantly In The Longitudinal Direction. Note: Polymer Films For Non-textile Use Are Commonly Unoriented Or Bi-axially Oriented, But Uni-axial Orientation Is Present In Som

Textile Glass (fibre) (generic name) = The Name Used To Describe Glass Fibres That Are Suitable For Textile Applications.

Textured Yarn = A Continuous-filament Yam That Has Been Processed To Introduce Durable Crimps, Coils, Loops Or Other Fine Distortions Along The Lengths Of The Filaments. Note 1: The Main Texturing Procedures Which Are Usually Applied To Continuous-filament Yarns Made Fro

Textured Yarns = Yarns modified so they have desirable properties such as "hand" (feel), increased softness, and greater fit latitude. (Same as stretch yarns).

Textures = A general term that includes all knitted-in patterns. Typical textures include cable, herringbone, basketweave, fisherman and pointelle.

Texturizing = A method of processing continuous filament yarns using heat and twist to give them bulk, elasticity, and/or better recoverability or "memory".

Therapeutic = Therapeutic - Can be a sock, thigh high, or waist high garment that is designed with graduated compression to provide a therapeutic benefit to aid blood flow and muscle support in the lower torso. Most are medically regulated garments, administered by hos

Thermal Fabric = A Knit Or Woven Fabric Constructed So As To Trap Warm Air Between The Yarns. Often In A Waffle Or Honeycomb Texture. Used For Blankets. Underwear.

Thermal Socks = Winter-weight boot length socks favored by skiers, skaters, or anyone who spends a great deal of time outdoors in cold weather. They can be made of heavy duty Orlon acrylic, wool, Thermax, silk, polypropylene, or Hollofil yarns, or a blend of fibers.

Thermally Bonded Nonwoven Fabric = Textile Fabric Composed Of A Web Or Batt Of Fibres Containing Heat-sensitive Material, Bonded By The Application Of Heat, With Or Without Pressure. The Heat-sensitive Materials May Be In The Form Of Fibres, Bicomponent Fibres Or Powders.

Thermoplastic = Deformable By Applied Heat And Pressure Without Any Accompanying Chemical Change. The Deformation Is Reversible.

Thick & Thin = A Fabric With A Mottled Appearance, Made From A Filament Yarn With Varying Thickness.

Thickener = A Substance Used To Increase The Viscosity Of A Print Paste Or Other Fluid, In Order To Control Its Flow Properties. Natural Polymers (starch, Alginates, Etc.,), Chemical Modifications Thereof, Synthetic Polymers, Emulsions, Foams And Clays Can Be Used.

Thigh-Highs = Stockings that just reach the thigh and are held up by elastomer bands.

Thread = (1) The Result Of Twisting Together In One Or More Operations Two Or More Single, Folded, Or Cabled Yarns (2) A Product As Defined In (1) Intended Particularly For Sewing Purposes. (known Also As Sewing Thread.) (3) A Component Of Silk Yarn. It Is The Pro

Thread Count = Is The Number Of Warp And Weft Yarns In One Square-inch Of A Fabric (warp Yarn X Weft Yarn Per Sq. Inch)

Throw = A Term, Of Germanic And Anglo-saxon Origin, Used Especially In The Silk And Man-made Fibre Industries To Describe The Twisting Or Folding Of Continuous-filament Yams. Note. The Term Throwster Was Traditionally Used To Describe An Individual Or Company Spe

Throwing = Term used to describe the twisting of rayon, nylon, or silk yarns.

Tick Weave = Fabric With A Small Allover Pattern Or Texture, Often Using 2 Contrasting Colors.

Ticking = A General Term For A Strong, Tightly Woven Fabric Most Often Used For Mattress And Box Spring Covers But Also For Workwear And Other Apparel. Often Found In A Pattern Of Narrow Stripes On Either Side Of A Wider Stripe. They Are Commonly Dark Warp Stripes

Tie Dyed = A Hand Method Of Dyeing That Involves Gathering Small Portions Of The Fabric And Tying Them Tightly Before Dyeing. The Tied Areas Resist Penetration Of The Dye, Resulting In Irregular Patterns. Also Refers To Similar Designs Created By Machine Methods.

Tights = A heavy, opaque one-piece garment from hip to toe worn with leotards for dance, exercise, etc. It is usually made with 40 denier yarn and over and is sometimes made of yarn other than nylon.

Tiki = A Round Piece; Generally Tacked On To A Garment.

Tinsel Yarn = A Textile Yarn Or Thread, Combined, Coated, Or Covered With A Shiny Substance, Often Metallic (e.g., Aluminium, Occasionally Gold Or Silver), To Produce A Glittering Or Sparkling Effect.

Tinted Hosiery = Hosiery dyed to fashion shades. It is created to blend with and enhance costume and shoe ensembles and to lend more grace and beauty to the leg.

Tippet = From The 16th Century Onwards It Meant A Short Shoulder Cape.

Tippy Wool. = Wool In Which The Tip Portions Of The Fibres Have Been So Damaged By Weathering During Growth As To Have Markedly Different Dyeing Properties.

Tissue Faille = A Lightweight, Plain Weave, Filament Yarn Fabric Characterized By A Narrow Crosswise Rib. Used For Blouses And Dresses.

Toelets = Knitted hosiery of various weights that is designed to cover the toe portion of the foot only. Designed to be worn with special types of shoes such as clogs.

Tone On Tone = 1. A Fabric With A Pattern Consisting Of 2 Or More Shades Of The Same Color. 2. Piece Dyed Dobbies In Which The Dobby Effect Takes On A Different Tone By Virtue Of The Weave, Light Reflection Or Types Of Yarn Used.

Top = (1) Sliver That Forms The Starting Material For The Worsted And Certain Other Drawing Systems, Usually Obtained By The Process Of Combing, And Characterized By The Following Properties: (a) The Absence Of Fibres So Short As To Be Uncontrolled In The Prefe

Top Dyed = A Fiber Dyeing Method In Which Dye In Applied To Combed Fibers In An Untwisted Or Loosely Twisted Rope Form (called Top Or Sliver ) . Sometimes Dye Is Applied Or Printed On The Fiber At Regular Intervals To Give A Melange Effect . Top Dyeing Results In Go

Topham Box. = A Device For Twisting And Winding A Wet-spun Continuous-filament Yarn So As To Produce A Cake

Torchon Lace = An Inexpensive, Sturdy, Machine Made Lace Using Thick Threads In Simple Designs On A Mesh Ground . Often With Scalloped Edges. Also Called Beggar's Lace.

Torque = A term used in the hosiery industry for defining a monofilament or multifilament yarn that has been textured to give residual stitch deformation in knitted hosiery, resulting in high sheerness.

Tow (flax Or Hemp) = Any Substantially Clean Fibre Of Less Than Scutched Length.

Tow (man-made fibres) = An Assemblage Of A Large Number Of Substantially Parallel Filaments With Little Or No Twist.

Tow, Machine = Tow Produced By A Hackling Machine.

Tow, Straw = Flax Straw In Tossed And Broken Condition, Resulting From Threshing A Flax Crop Too Poor For Normal Processing

Tower = High Female Headdress Fashionable In The Late 17th And Early 18th Century.

Tow-to-top = A Process In Which Heavy Continuous-filament Yam, Having No Twist And A Substantially Parallel Alignment Of The Filaments, Is Cut Or Broken Into Staple And Drafted Into A Sliver As A Continuous Process. It Is Characteristic Of The Process That The Tow Doe

Tram = A Silk Weft Yarn Comprising Two Or More Threads Run Together And Then Twisted With 2 Or 4 Turns/cm.

Transfer Printing = Any Process By Which A Design Is Transferred From Paper To Another Substrate. Several Techniques Have Been Used, Viz Melt-transfer, Film-release, And Wet-transfer, But Vapour Transfer (sublimation Transfer) Is The Most Important. Selected Disperse Dyes Tr

Trapunto = A Form Of Quilting In Which A Design Is Stitched Through 2 Layers Of Fabric. The Lower Layer Is Than Slit And Batting Or Fiberfill Is Inserted To Raise The Design To A High Relief.

Trash (cotton) = A Loose Term Embracing, In Its Widest Sense, The Non-fibrous Foreign Matter Present In Bales Of Raw Cotton Other Than Abnormal Items, Such As Stone, Timber, Pieces Of Old Iron, Etc. Note 1: Normal Whole Seeds, Either Ginned Or Un-ginned, Are Frequently Ex

Trend = Fashion Is Not Static, They Are Constantly Moving, Their Movement Has A Definite Direction. The Direction In Which Fashion Moves Is Called Fashion Trend.

Triacetate (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Cellulose Ethanoate (cellulose Acetate) Wherein At Least 92% Of The Hydroxyl Groups Of The Original Cellulose Are Ethanoylated (acetylated).

Tricorne = From French Late 18th Century Term For Hat With Turned Up Brim And Having Three Corners.

Tricot = A Common Warp Knit Fabric With Thin Wales On The Face And Crosswise Ribs On The Back . Generally Made Of Synthetic Yarns Such As Polyester, Nylon, Acetate Or Rayon.

Tricotine = A Woven Fabric With A Distinct Steep Double Twill Line. Used For Trousers Dresses, Women's Sportswear.

Trilobal Yarn = Contrary to a round cross section of yarn, trilobal yarn is a cross section with three lobes. It reflects light and gives the finished product a glimmer or brilliance.

Trim = To Cut Off The Ragged Edges Below The Seam Line To Prevent The Garment From Being Bulky And To Give The Seam A Neat Finish.

Tristimulus Values = The Amounts Of Three Defined Primaries (usually Blue, Red And Green) Required To Be Mixed Additively To Match The Colour Of The Object, Under Defined Conditions.

Trivinyl (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Made From A Synthetic Terpolymer Of Cyanoethene (acrylonitrile), A Chlorinated Vinyl Monomer And A Third Vinyl Monomer, None Of Which Represents As Much As 50% Of The Total Mass.

Tropical = A General Term For Crisp Lightweight Suiting Fabrics. They Often Use Fine Or High Twist Yarns For A Porous Construction . May Be A Variety Of Fibers And Weaves . Primarily Used For Warm Weather Suits.

Trousses = In The 17th Century The Upper Hose Which Did Not Hang Down, But Fitted The Thighs Tightly. They Are A Survival Of The 16th Century Grègues, Preserved In The Ceremonial Costume Of Knights Of The King's Order And In Pages' Costumes.

True Hemp = See Hemp, True

Tube Socks = Hosiery knit in the shape of a tube, usually on multi-feed machines. Tube socks are nonreciprocated - without a knit-in heel - and are primarily used as men's and boy's spectator athletic socks.

Tubular = A Knit Fabric Made On A Circular Knitting Machine And Shipped Without Being Slit To Open Width Form.

Tuck Loop = A tuck loop is formed by only partially raising the needle so the old loop does not clear, but rises sufficiently for feeding a new yarn into the hook. The old loop which did not clear is the held loop and the new yarn forms the tuck loop. When the needle

Tuck Stitch = A Knit Stitch That Results In Open Spaces At Regular Intervals On The Fabric By Having Some Needles Hold More Than One Loop At A Time.

Tukma = Small, Button-like Boss Used In Conjunction With A Ghundi (q.v.) Or Loop, For Fastening.

Tulle = A Soft, Fine, Transparent Net Originally Made Of Silk But Now Made Of Synthetics. Usually Has A Hexagonal Mesh. Used In Evening Wear And Bridal Veils.

Turbo = A process in which large bundles of continuous filament fibers, called tow are stretched randomly, broken and drafted into sliver form. This sliver, with high shrinkage potential, is blended (or combined) with sliver having low shrinkage potential. After

Tussah = Silk Fabric Made From The Strong, Coarse, Uneven, Light Brown Color Silk Produced By Wild, Uncultivated Silkworms.

Tussah Silk = A Coarse Silk Produced By A Wild Silkworm. There Are Three Main Types: Antheraea Mylitta (largely Indian), Antheraea Pernyi (largely Chinese), And Antheraea Yama-mai (largely Japanese). It Is Brown In Colour And Is Usually Spun, Since Most Cocoons Cannot

Tussore = A Fabric Woven From The Coarse Wild Silk Called Tussah. Note: The Spelling 'tussore', Although Considered Erroneous By Etymologists, Is In Common Usage In The Textile Industry For The Name Given To Fabrics.

Twaddell = A Scale Used For The Measurement Of The Specific Gravity Of Liquids By Hydrometry. The Following Formula Expresses The Relationship Between Specific Gravity (sg), And Degrees Twaddell (tw), For Liquids Heavier Than Water:

Tweed = Originally A Coarse, Heavy-weight, Rough-surfaced Wool Fabric For Outerwear, Woven In Southern Scotland. The Term Is Now Applied To Fabrics Made In A Wide Range Of Weights And Qualities From Woollen-spun Yams In A Variety Of Weave Effects And Colour-and-w

Twill = A General Term For A Woven Fabric Made With A Twill Weave, A Basic Weave Characterized By Diagonal Lines On The Face Of The Fabric.

Twist = The Condition Of A Yarn Or Similar Structure When The Component Elements Have A Helical Disposition Such As Results, For Instance, From Relative Rotation Of The Yarn Ends. For All Practical Purposes Twist Is Measured In Turns, But For Purely Theoretical W

Twist = The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn. Normally, no more twist is placed in a yarn than is needed for strength and abrasion resistance. (See also High-Twist)

Twist Angle = The Angle Between The Path Of A Yarn Element And The Yarn Axis.

Twist Direction = Twist Is Described As 's' Or 'z' According To Which Of These Letters Has Its Centre Inclined In The Same Direction As The Surface Elements Of A Given Twisted Yarn.

Twist Factor; Twist Multiplier = In A Yarn, The Product Of Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Linear Density. Note: Where Units Of Specific Length Are In Use, The Corresponding Factor Is The Quotient Of The Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Count.

Twist Level = The Amount Of Twist Per Unit Length Of A Yarn. Note: With The Exception Of False-twisting , The Length Is Normally Assumed To Be That In The Twisted Form But, When Necessary, Ambiguity Can Be Avoided By Stating, For Example, Turns Per Twisted Metre Or Tur

Twist Liveliness = The Tendency Of A Yam To Twist Or Untwist Spontaneously. Note 1: Examples Of Effects Which May Be Caused By Twist Liveliness Include Snarling Of Yarns During Processing And Spirality In Knitted Fabrics.

Twist Multiplier; Twist Factor = In A Yarn, The Product Of Twist Level And The Square Root Of The Linear Density.

Twistless Spinning = A System Of Yarn Formation That Relies On The Use Of A Permanent Or Temporary Adhesive To Bond Fibres Together. Note: Where A Temporary Adhesive Is Used It Is Removed During Fabric Finishing, And The Yarn (and Fabric) Strength Is Then Obtained Through Lat

Twistless Yarn = A Yarn Prepared Without Twist In Order To Obtain Special Properties, E.g., Increased Softness And Dyeability.

Twitty = Descriptive Of An Irregular Yarn Or Stubbing In Which Local Concentrations Of Twist Have Accentuated The Irregular Appearance.

Two Component = Pantyhose manufactured with two separate legs so that one can be replaced. Are often called replaceable legs pantyhose and can be manufactured where the legs are individually attached at the top of the stocking below the crotch, or a full leg is knitted w

U = U

U Seams = Pantyhose that are sewn one leg blank to another with a continuous U seam to join the legs. These garments have no crotch sewn in.

Ultimate Fibre = See Fibre Ultimate

Ultra Sheer = A fine denier fiber which gives the ultimate in sheerness. It is usually 20 denier or less and a low filament count.

Unbalanced Stripes = A Stripe Design With An Irregular Spacing Between The Lines.

Unboarded = Hosiery not subjected to preboarding or boarding operations in its manufacture. In appearance it is wrinkled and shapeless until stretched over the leg and body.

Unbranded = Applied to hosiery that is not marketed throughout the country under a recognizable name. Usually not nationally advertised. (See Brand)

Uncut Corduroy = A Corduroy With The Pile Left Uncut. The Result Is A Strong Woven Fabric With A Warpwise Rib.

Undrawn Yarn = Extruded Filament Yarn (or Tow), The Component Macromolecules Of Which Have A Low Degree Of Orientation. Note: Undrawn Yarn And Tow Represent Intermediate Stages In The Production Of Some Synthetic Yams And Staple Fibres Respectively.

Union Dye = A Dye, Or A Mixture Of Dyes, Which Will Yield An Apparently Solid Dyeing On The Fibre Mixture For Which It Is Devised.

Union Dyed = A Fabric With 2 Or More Fibers All Dyed In The Same Shade.

Union Yarn = A Yarn Made By Twisting Together Yarns Of Different Fibres.

Unripe Cotton = See Immature Cotton

Upland Cotton; Uppers = A Type Of Cotton (gossypium Hirsutum) Which Forms The Bulk Of The World's Cotton Crop. It Varies In Average Staple Length From About 22 Mm To About 32 Mm.

Urena = A Bast Fibre Similar To Jute, From The Plant Urena Lobata

Utility Weight = A heavier weight ladies hosiery product generally designed for professionals such as nurses. Designed to provide longer wear life than sheer garments, but provide little leg flattering characteristics. Are synonomous with service weight hosiery.

V = V

Vajani = A Kind Of Pyjama (q. V.), Worn In Kutch And Saurashtra, Often Richly Embroidered.

Valenciennes Lace = A Flat Bobbin Lace With The Same Fine Threads Used For Both The Ground And The Design.

Variable Cut Device = An Ancillary Device On The Crush-cutting Type Of Converter (see Converting) Which Cyclically Varies The Angle Of Approach Of The Tow To The Cutting Region In Order To Introduce A Controlled Variation Of Fibre Length.

Vat Dye = A Water-insoluble Dye, Usually Containing Keto Groups Which Is Normally Applied To The Fibre From An Alkaline Aqueous Solution Of The Reduced Enol ( Leuco) Form, And Which Is Subsequently Oxidized In The Fibre To The Insoluble Form.

Veiling = A General Term For A Large Variety Of Light, Open Fabrics Used For Such Purposes As Bridal Veils, Dress Trim, Evening Wear, Or Millinery.

Velour = A Knit Or Woven Fabric With A Soft , Short Thick Nap Made By Brushing And Shearing. Knit Velours Are Used In Women's Tops And Sportswear. Wovens Are Usually Heavier In Weight And Used For Coats, Jackets, Drapery.

Velvet = A Woven Fabric With A Thick, Dense Cut Pile, A Soft Texture And A Rich Appearance. May Be Made By 2 Different Methods A) 2 Layers Of Fabric With Connecting Threads Are Cut Apart Or B) Warp Threads Are Lifted Over Wires During Weaving Forming Loops, And Th

Velveteen = A Woven Fabric Generally Of Cotton Or A Cotton Blend With A Short, Dense Pile Resembling Velvet. Velveteen Differs From Velvet In That It Is Usually Made With Cotton, It Generally Has A Shorter Pile And It Is A Filling Pile Fabric Whereas Velvet Is A Warp

Velvety = A Soft Plush, Dense, Hand Suggesting Velvet.

Venetian = A Warp Faced, Strong, Heavy Sateen With A High Luster.

Venetian Lace = A Needlepoint Lace Usually In A Floral Pattern With Picot Edgings.. Also Called Venise Lace. Or Venetian Point.

Ventilation = A knitting operation that allows fabrics to breath. It is often utilized in pantyhose for cotton crotch panels or cotton soles. (See Aeration)

Vest Or Veste = In The 17th And 18th Centuries A Man's Garment Worn Under The Justaucorps, Generally In Rich Material. Originally Almost As Long As The Coat, The Vest Was Gradually Shortened And Simplified Until, In The Middle Of The Reign Of Louis Xv, It Became The Wais

Vicuna = The Undercoat Hair Of The Vicuna, An Animal Of The Llama Group Of The Camel Family. It Produces A Softer And Finer Fabric Than Can Be Obtained With Any Other Wool Or Hair.

Vinal (fibre) (US) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre-forming Substance Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 50% By Weight Of Ethenol (vinyl Alcohol) Units And In Which The Total Of The Ethenol Units And Any One Or More Of Var

Vinylal (fibre) (generic Name) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Composed Of Synthetic Linear Macromolecules Of Polyethenol (poly Vinyl Alcohol) Of Differing Levels Of Acetalization.

Vinyon (fibre) (USA) = A Term Used To Describe Manufactured Fibres In Which The Fibre Forming Substance Is Any Long-chain Synthetic Polymer Composed Of At Least 85% By Weight Of Chloroethene (vinyl Chloride) Units.

Virago Sleeves = Mid 17th Century Sleeves On Female Gowns And Jackets That Were Paned And Tied Into A Series Of Puffs.

Viscose = The Solution Obtained By Dissolving Sodium Cellulose Xanthate In A Dilute Solution Of Sodium Hydroxide (caustic Soda).

Viscose (fibre) (generic Name ) = A Term Used To Describe Fibres Of Regenerated Cellulose Obtained By The Viscose Process.

Viscosity = The Internal Resistance To Flow Of A Fluid. The Unit Of Viscosity Is The Pascal Second. Note 1: The Viscosity Of A Solution Of A Polymer Is Commonly Expressed In One Of The Following Ways: (a) Viscosity Ratio: The Ratio Of The Viscosity Of A Solution To T

Visible Absorption Spectrum = The Curve Relating The Absorption Of Light By A Coloured Substance (usually In Solution) To The Wavelength Of The Light.

Vivana = A registered BASF trademark for a yarn used in shiny tights and the panty of some styles to give it sheen. Sometimes this yarn is referred to as "Bright" nylon.

Vizard = A Face Mask Worn By Ladies In The 17th Century To Protect Their Faces From The Weather Or Even Indoors. See Also Mask.

Voile = A Sheer, Plain Weave Fabric With A Crisp, Wiry Hand Resulting From The Use Of High Twist Yarns . Most Commonly Made Of Cotton, But Also Of Silk, Rayon, Wool, Acetate Or Other Fibers. Used For Blouses, Dresses Curtains.

W = W

Wadding = A Loosely Cohering Sheet Of Fibres Used For Padding, Upholstery, Stuffing, Packing, Or Similar Purposes.

Wader = Sock, of synthetic fiber, usually bonded to a rubber sole designed to be worn while wading in water at the beach, river or lake. Can be worn as extra foot protection with swimming fins for water enthusiasts.

Waffle = A Fabric Characterized By A Honeycomb Texture Or Small Squares Similar To The Surface Of A Waffle. May Be Woven Or Knit.

Waistband = An elastic band either knitted into or sewn onto the top portion of the pantyhose, to hug the waist and hold the garment up.

Waistcoat = From The Louis Xvi Period Onwards Waistcoats Were Worn Under All Men's Outer Garments, Coat, Riding-coat, Frock Coat, Jacket, Etc. Usually The Two Front Panels Were Made From Fine Material And The Back, Which Isn't Seen, From Lining Material.

Wale (knitting) = A Column Of Loops Along The Length Of A Fabric.

Wales = Vertical rows of stitches in a knitted construction.

Walking Sock = Cushioning in foot, reversed cushioning in foot for reduced slide in shoe.

Wall Thickness, Apparent = The Apparent Width Of A Fibre Wall As Seen When Fibres Are Examined Under A Microscope. Note: In The Cotton Fibre Maturity Test, The Apparent Wall Thickness Assessed Visually At The Widest Part Of The Fibres As A Fraction Of The Maximum Ribbon Width.

Warm = A Woolly Or Fibrous Hand Generally Associated With Fabrics That Keep The Body Warm.

Warm Colours = Colors Like Red, Orange, Yellow Are Classified As Warm Colors, They Are Advancing In Nature, Because As Seen By The Eyes These Colors Move Closer Thereby Reducing The Size Of An Object. Warm Colors Are Cheerful.

Warp = Used As A Verb - To Arrange Threads In Long Lengths Parallel To One Another Preparatory To Further Processing. Note: In Addition To Beaming The Following Methods Of Warping Are Practised; Ball Warping, Cross-ball Warping, And Chain Warping. The Primary St

Warp (UK, Local, Chain) = Used As A Noun - (1) Threads Lengthways In A Fabric As Woven. (2) A Number Of Threads In Long Lengths And Approximately Parallel, In Various Forms Intended For Weaving, Knitting, Doubling, Sizing, Dyeing, Or Lacemaking.

Warp Dressing = The Operation Of Assembling On A Beam Yarns From A Ball Warp, Beam Warp, Or Chain Warp Immediately Prior To Weaving.

Warp Knitting = A Method Of Making A Fabric By Normal Knitting Means In Which The Loops Made From Each Warp Thread Are Formed Substantially Along The Length Of The Fabric. It Is Characterized By The Fact That Each Warp Thread Is Fed More Or Less In Line With The Directio

Warp Print = The Warp Yarns Are Printed With A Design Before Weaving. After Weaving The Design Then Has A Hazy Shadowy Effect.

Washed = Refers To Fabrics That Have Been Laundered Before Shipping. This May Be Done To Reduce Shrinkage, Soften The Hand, Wash Down The Color Or To Give The Fabric A Used, Laundered Look.

Washer = A Machine For Removing Impurities, Excess Dyes Or Chemicals By Submitting Fabric Or Yarn, In Rope Or Open-width Form, To Successive Liquid Treatments,

Washing-off = Treatment Of Textile Material In Water Or Detergent Solution To Remove Substances Employed Previous Processes.

Waste (cotton, Wool And Other Staple Fibres) = There Are Two Classes Of Waste Known As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment Differs According To The Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From Spinning Frames, Reeling And Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of A Thready Nature. Soft Waste Comes From

Water Repellent = Fabrics That Have Been Treated To Resist Wetting And Shed Water By Causing The Water To Bead On The Surface. It Does Not Close The Pores Of The Fabric As Waterproof Treatments Do, So The Fabrics Are Comfortable To Wear. It Will Offer Protection In A Light

Watercolor = Refers To Designs That Are Characterized By Soft Gradations And Soft Shadings Of Color Suggestive Of Semi-opaque Watercolor Paintings.

Watering = An Operation Used In Grass Bleaching That Consists Of Spraying Fabrics Laid On A Green With Water.

Waterproof = The Ability Of Fabric To Be Fully Resistant To Penetration By Water. Note: The Term Is An Absolute One And Implies That The Water Penetration Resistance Of The Fabric Is Equivalent To Its Hydraulic Bursting Strength.

Waterproof = Refers To Fabrics That Have Been Coated, Laminated, Or Otherwise Treated To Prevent The Penetration Of Water.

Water-repellent = A State Characterized By The Non-spreading Of A Globule Of Water On A Textile Material.

Watteau Pleat = Box Pleat Sweeping Down From The Shoulders To The Hem In The Loose Back Of The Gown.

Wax Coated = Refers To Fabric That Has Been Coated With Wax Or Paraffin To Alter The Hand Or Appearance Or To Make The Fabric Water Repellent.

Waxing, Warp = The Application Of Wax To A Warp Sheet So As To Improve Its Weaving Performance. The Wax, In Emulsion Or Molten Form, Is Usually Applied By A Trough And Lick Roller. The Point Of Application May Be Between The Swift And Warp Beam In Section Warping , Or B

Weathering = (1) The Action Of Atmospheric Agencies Or Elements On Substances Exposed To Them. (2) The Discoloration, Disintegration, Etc., That Results From This Action.

Weave = The Pattern Of Interlacing Of Warp And Weft In A Woven Fabric

Web = (1) A Rarely Used Synonym For Fabric. (2) The Sheet Of Fibres Delivered By A Card (card Web) (3) A Plain Circular-knitted Fabric. (4) A Local And Little-used Synonym For Warp. (5) (nonwoven) Single Or Multiple Sheets Of Fibre Used In Nonwoven Fabric Produ

Webbing = A Woven Narrow Fabric, The Prime Function Of Which Is Load Bearing. It Is Generally Of A Coarse Weave And Has Multiple Plies. It Is Produced In Widths Up To And Including 450 Mm And Includes All Elastic Narrow Fabrics.

Weepers = White Bands Which Were Worn On The Sleeve Facings Of Coats And Jerkins In The 17th And 18th Centuries As A Sign Of Deep Mourning.

Weft = (1) Threads Widthways In A Fabric As Woven. (2) Yarn Intended For Use As In (1).

Weft Bobbin = See Pirn

Weft Carrier = A Yarn Carrier Providing A Supply Of Weft And Driven Positively Through A Shed In A Weaving Machine.

Weft Knit = The Most Common Type Of Knit Formed By Interlocking Loops In The Widthwise Direction . Weft Knit Tend To Have More Stretch Than Warp Knits. Examples Are Interlock, Jerseys, Double Knits, Rib Knits.

Weft Knitting = A Method Of Making A Fabric By Normal Knitting Means In Which The Loops Made By Each Weft Thread Are Formed Substantially Across The Width Of The Fabric. It Is Characterized By The Fact That Each Weft Thread Is Fed More Or Less At Right Angles To The Dire

Weighting = The Addition Of Metallic Salts To Silks To Increase The Mass And Impart A Firmer Handle.

Welt = A fabric knitted separately and machine-sewn to the top of the sock, or hem at the tip of a stocking knit in heavier denier yarn and folded double to give strength for supporter fastening.

Wet Cleaning = The Removal Of Water-soluble Or Emulsifiable Soil From Garments, Often Carried Out On A Draining Board Using Tepid Water In The Presence Of Detergents. It Is Also A Process For Cleaning Garments Etc., Made From Fabrics, E.g. Vinyi Coated Materials, Liable

Wet Fixation = A Finishing Process For Cellulosic-fibre Fabrics That Improves The Wet Crease Recovery And Smooth Drying Properties, But Not The Dry Crease Recovery.

Wet Laying = The Process Of Forming A Fibre Sheet By Papermaking Techniques, For Nonwoven Fabric Production.

Wet Spinning (man-made-fibre Production) = Conversion Of A Dissolved Polymer Into Filaments By Extrusion Into A Coagulating Liquid. Note: The Extrusion May Be Directly Into The Coagulating Liquid Or Through A Small Air-gap. In The Latter Case It May Be Known As Dry-jet Wet Spinning Or Air-gap Wet

Wet-laid = Formation Of A Non-woven Fabric By Suspending Fibers In Water To Disperse Them Evenly . The Suspension Is Poured Onto A Moving Screen Allowing The Water To Pass Through And Leaving A Fiber Web, Which Is Then Dried To Form The Fabric.

Wet-spun = (1) Descriptive Of A Yarn Of Flax, Hemp, Or Similar Fibre Spun From Roving That Has Been Thoroughly Wetted Out In Hot Water Immediately Prior To The Drafting Operation. (2) Descriptive Of Man-made Filament Produced By Wet Spinning.

Whipcord = A Strong, Firm Fabric With A Prominent, Steep, Indented Twill Line. Used For Trousers, Drapery, Upholstery.

Wicking = The capacity of a fiber to transport moisture away from itself.

Width, Fabric = Unless Otherwise Specified, The Distance From Edge To Edge Of A Fabric When Laid Flat On A Table Without Tension. In The Case Of Commercial Dispute The Measurement Should Be Made After The Fabric Has Been Conditioned In A Standard Atmosphere For Testing .

Wild Silk = Fibres Extruded By Insect Larvae Other Than Bombyx Mori.

Wildness = A Ruffled Appearance Of The Surface Fibres In Slivers, Slubbings, Rovings, And Yams. Note: Wildness May Be Due To The Processing Of These Products Under Dry Atmospheric Conditions Which Causes Increased Inter-fibre Friction And Static-electricity Troubles

Willey (UK, Local, Willow, Teaze) = To Open And Disentangle Fibres Prior To Scouring And/or Carding

Willey; Tenterhook Willow; Fearnought; Teazer, Cockspur Willey = A Machine Consisting Of Bladed Or Pinned Rollers For Opening, Cleaning And Mixing Staple Fibre Material As A Preliminary To Scouring (for Greasy Wool) Or Carding (for Most Animal And Synthetic Fibres).

Winch; Wince = A Dyeing Machine In Which One Or More Endless Lengths Of Fabric Are Drawn Through The Dyebath By A Rotating Reel Or Drum Above The Surface Of The Dye Liquor.

Wind Ratio = The Number Of Wraps Wound On A Take-up Package While The Traverse Completes A Full Stroke In One Direction.

Winder = A Machine Used For Transferring Yam From One Package To Another.

Windowpane = A Design That Looks Like A Windowpane, With Narrow Bands Of One Color Forming An Over-check That Encloses Rectangles Of Another Ground Color.

Wool = The Fibrous Covering Of A Sheep (see Note Under Hair).

Wool = Wool is the soft, curly hair of a sheep which is spun into yarn. The wool family includes Shetland (Scottish) and Merino (Spanish) wool which are soft and of high quality. But most woolen yarn used in socks is made from standard grades produced in the U.

Wool Classing = See Classing

Wool Sorting = A Process By Which Fleece Or Skin Wool Is Divided Up Into Various Qualities. It Is Usually Carried Out By The User.

Wool Waste = There Are Two Classes Of Waste Known As 'hard' And 'soft', And Their Treatment Differs According To The Class. Hard Waste Is Essentially That From Spinning Frames, Reeling And Winding Machines And All Other Waste Of A Thready Nature. Soft Waste Comes From

Woolen = Yarns produced by the woolen system of spinning. Generally containing very short fibers, unevenly distributed and not parallel to each other.

Woolen Cut Count = An indirect yarn numbering system based on the number of 300 yd. lengths per pound.

Woolen Run Count = An indirect numbering system generally used for yarn spun on the woolen system; the number of 1600 yd. lengths of yarn per pound.

Woollen = Descriptive Of Yarns, Or Fabrics Or Garments Made From Yarns, Which Have Been Produced On The Condenser System, Wholly From Wool Fibres, New Or Otherwise. Note 1: As An Adjective Appertaining To Wool Generally, The Term 'wool' And Not 'woollen' Is Recomme

Woollen, Blended = Descriptive Of Yarns Spun On The Condenser System And Having Wool As The Main Component, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Or Garments Made From Such Yarns.

Woollen-spun = The Trade Name 'woollen-spun' Is Applied To Staple Yarn Produced By Carding, Condensing, And Spinning On Machinery Originally Designed For The Processing Of Wool Into Yarn: It Is Descriptive Of The Processing Technique And Not Fibre Content. Since The Yar

Woollen-type Fabric = A Fabric Manufactured Wholly From Woollen-type (woollen-spun ) Yarns, Or From Cotton Warp And Woollen-type (woollen-spun) Weft And Which May Or May Not Contain Decorative Threads Of Other Fibres.

Wool-like = Refers To A Non-wool Fabric With A Warm Hand That Feels Like Natural Wool.

Work Socks = Designed to meet the needs of people who work outdoors or in heavy industry. There are many styles available including cushioned and flame-resistant socks for fisherman and foundry workers.

Worsted = Refers To Fabric Of Combed Yarns Spun In The Worsted Spinning System. These Tend To Be Longer Finer Yarns Than Those Spun In The Woolen System. The Term Worsted Usually Refers To Wool But May Refer To Any Other Fibers As Well. Worsted Fabrics Are Lighter

Worsted = Yarns produced by the worsted system of spinning. Generally contain long fibers arranged in parallel and well-distributed order.

Worsted Count = An indirect numbering system generally used for yarns spun on the worsted system; the number of 560 yd. lengths of yarn per pound.

Worsted Yarns, Colour Terms = In All The Definitions Given Below, The Expression 'colour' Includes Black And White.

Worsted, Blended = Descriptive Of Yarns In Which The Fibres Are Reasonably Parallel And Have Combed Wool As The Main Component, Or Descriptive Of Fabrics Or Garments Made From Such Yarns.

Worsted-type Fabric = A Fabric Manufactured Wholly From Worsted-type (worsted-spun) Yarns, Or From Cotton Warp And Worsted-type (worsted-spun) Weft, And Which May Or May Not Contain Decorative Threads Of Other Fibres.

Wound Packages (yarns) = Yarn Wound On Formers Which Facilitate Convenient Handling. Note: In Some Cases The Former May Be Withdrawn Before Further Processing.

Wrap Yarn = (1) A Fibrous Yarn Covered With Other Yarn(s) To Bind Projecting Fibre Ends To The Main Body. Note: It Is Commonly Used For Interlinings To Prevent Fibre Ends From Penetrating The Outer Fabric.

Wrapped Yarn = A yarn composed of one fiber as a core, wrapped with a filament or spun yarn of another. For example, spandex is frequently wrapped with nylon to improve strength and durability.

Wrapper Fibres = Fibres Which Wrap Around The Main Body Of A Staple Fibre Yarn During Yarn Formation In The Production Of Open-end And Fasciated Yarns

Wrap-spun Yarn = A Yarn With A Twistless Core Wrapped With A Binder.

Wrinkle = An Unwanted Short And Irregular Crease In A Fabric. Note: The Distinction Between A Wrinkle And A Crease Is Often Not Clear But Creases Are Generally Sharper And Longer Than Wrinkles.

Wrinkle Resistant = A Fabric That Has Been Treated To Resist The Formation Of Wrinkles.

Y = Y

Yarn = A Product Of Substantial Length And Relatively Small Cross-section Consisting Of Fibres And/or Filament(s) With Or Without Twist. Note 1: Assemblies Of Fibres Or Filaments Are Usually Given Other Names During The Stages That Lead To The Production Of Yarn

Yarn = A generic term for an assemblage of fibers or filaments, either natural or manufactured, twisted or laid together to form a continuous strand suitable for use in producing fibers.

Yarn Count = See Count

Yarn Count = A numerical designation expressing relationship of length to weight. (See also Denier)

Yarn Dyed = Fabrics Which Have Had The Yarns Colored Before The Fabric Is Woven. Used To Produce Stripes Plaids Or Tapestries.

Yarn Dyed And Overdyed = A Fabric Which Has Been First Yarn Dyed, Then Piece Dyed In A Lighter Shade That Allows The Yarn Dye Pattern To Show Through.

Yarn Linear Density = The Coarseness Or Fineness Of Yarn Or Other Linear Textile Material.

Yarn Setting = The Process Of Conferring Stability Of Form Upon Yarns Usually By Means Of Successive Heating And Cooling In Moist Or Dry Conditions.

Yarn, Cable = Two Or More Folded Yarns Twisted Together In One Or More Operations.

Yarn, Combination = A Yarn In Which There Are Dissimilar Component Yams Especially When These Are Of Fibre And Filaments. (1) Descriptive Of Full Drawn Continuous-filament Yarns Substantially Without Twist And Untextured (see Also Twistless Yarn.) (2) A Synonym For Straw (se

Yarn, Single = A Thread Produced By One Unit Of A Spinning Machine Or Of A Silk Reel.

Yarn, Spun = Commonly Used To Describe A Yarn That Consists Of Staple Fibres Held Together (usually) By Twist.

Yarn, Straw = Extruded Monofilament Yarns That Have The Cross-section And Appearance Of Natural Straw.

Yarn, Zero-twist = (1) A Continuous-filament Single Yarn In Which There Is No Twist, (2) A Multi-fold Yarn In Which There Is No Folding Twist. Note 1: Some Fibrous Yarns Are Described As Twistless, Since The Fibres May Be Held Together By Adhesive Temporarily E.g., Until In

Yarn; Folded, Doubled, Plied = A Yarn In Which Two Or More Single Yarns Are Twisted Together In One Operation, E.g., Two-fold Yarn, Three-fold Yarn, Etc. Note: In Some Sections Of The Textile Industry, E.g., The Marketing Of Hand-knitting Yams, These Yarns Are Referred To As Two-ply, T

Yarns, Fancy = A Yarn That Differs From The Normal Construction Of Single And Folded Yarns By Way Of Deliberately Produced Irregularities In Its Construction. These Irregularities Relate To An Increased Input Of One Or More Of Its Components Or To The Inclusion Of Perio

Yellowing = The Yellow Discoloration That May Develop On Textile Materials During Processing, Use, Or Storage.

Yishtinuam = Boat Shaped Cap (topi), Worn Close To The Head. Kulah

Yoryu = See Crepon/ Yoryu.

Zardozi Work = Work In Which Gold Or Silver Metal Threads Are Sewn On A Fabric Like Satin Or Velvet With Metallic Threads To Give The Appearance Of True Embroidery.

Zari = Metallic Thread Twisted Over Cotton Or Silk For Brocading. Also Referred To, In Popular Parlance, Asjad

Zero-twist Yarn = (1) A Continuous-filament Single Yarn In Which There Is No Twist, (2) A Multi-fold Yarn In Which There Is No Folding Twist. Note 1: Some Fibrous Yarns Are Described As Twistless, Since The Fibres May Be Held Together By Adhesive Temporarily E.g., Until In

Zirah = A Kind Of Coat Of Mail.

Z-twist = See Twist Direction

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